Fremont has a leopard belly, and, here, so do I!

This is the garment I copied.  The fabric is flimsy because I've worn it constantly for 11 years! 

This is my new garment.  The knit is thicker, and I lengthened the dress 2 1/2 inches. 

To copy is simple.  If you've never done it before, a garment like this - a simple knit with not too many design lines - is perfect to start with. 

Take the source garment, lay it on a table, which is covered with paper (I use old blueprint paper). This garment was done in three steps.   Front, back, and sleeve.  For each step, lay the garment flat.   Methodically press out the wrinkles with your fingers.  Then use a tracing wheel to mark the paper.  You have a pattern sans seam allowances.  True the pattern, add seam allowances, and hem allowances, and it's done.  There are many sources out there to help you learn how to make patterns from finished clothing.   My husband, Nick, gave me the book by Rusty Bensusson, many years ago.  I used that to get a 'handle' on the process, then graduated to more technical references, later.  

If you've never tried this, go for it!  It's really rewarding. Oh... one more resource for you --  Here is a recent article on this subject from Threads Magazine. 

To do the ruching, I sewed the seams, as per normal, then gathered at the appropriate areas in the seamlines, then used seam tape to stabilize the gathering, by stitching it into the seamlines, on both sides of the seam.  I drafted my own pocket for the left front.   It's circular, with a gathered top, bound by bias strip of my fabric.  For the fabric, I used a wool lycra from Kashi at Metro Textile.  I cut the pattern pieces on the bias.  My  hem is a narrow machine hem, turned twice, and  clean looking.  Project completed October, 2006. 

Raglan sleeves, bias cut sleeves, gathered at empire line just below bust with 1/4 inch elastic. 

Tip for bias cut anything - always let it hang for 24 hours before deciding on your final hem length.  You'll find bias often 'grows' in length! 

Fabric is a rich rayon crepe from Kashi at Metro Textile.  (See my tips and ideas page for contact info!). 

Project completed May 12, 2007. 

I drafted my own sleeve ruffle, since the pattern did not come with a sleeve ruffle pattern (one is expected to use purchased lace for the ruffle).   I am making a pencil skirt with a godet insert at the center back hem to match this jacket. 

I used bias tubing to make button 'holes'.  The jacket is meant to close at center front, without overlap.  I will wear a tight fitting camisole underneath. 

Project completed April 2007. 

Back yoke.

Front.  I used a velvet stretch trim from Mokuba as a tie closure. 

This fabric needed a lot of stabilization.  I achieved this by using fusible tape at all curved edges, including shoulder, armscyes, neckline, and at yoke, where it meets the body of the garment. 

Scroll down to see the same fabric made into a skirt.  I shall not be wearing these two items together! 

I will wear this top with skinny pants, a camisole, and high heels.  The fashion arbiters write in the March 2007 issue of Bazaar Magazine that embroidered  'boho' is out.  But not for me! 

The piece was not large - only about 58 by 54 inches, so I barely squeaked this shirt out of the fabric, but the finagling was well worth it!  I'm going to wear this piece with denim, and will take it to Hawaii with me when I go soon. 

Check out Textile Workshop website to see some other fabrics they have for sale. They're all wonderful, and just as lovely are the three women who run the studio, Grace, Judy, and Barbara.   

The fabric is a slinky knit from Jomar.  I used the gold sparkly side for the main design, and used the reverse side of the fabric, which is solid black, for the modesty panel. 

The skirt pattern is the "A Line" skirt from the SEW U book, by "Built By Wendy".  I enlarged the hem circumference by 6 inches total.   I eliminated the back seam and put the skirt on the fold, relocating the zip to the left side.  (I HATE back zippers - they're uncomfortable.) 

I lined the skirt with lightweight silk lining (bought a bolt of this stuff a few years ago from Michael of Michael's Fabrics).   Used an invisible zipper at the side and a simple narrow waistband.  Used silk thread.   Makes for fine, invisible seams.  A few hours, and voila'   it was done! 

I wanted the jacket to slip easily over my clothes, so I used a very lightweight and sheer nylon tricot.     I used the popular "Bagging" technique, which I learned many years ago, and which has served me well. 

The skirt is wool lycra, fabric also from Christine Jonson.  I used her "A line skirt" pattern. 

On the right is  Kwik Sew 3450. 

All fabrics are from Christine Jonson, and are machine washable on gentle, air dry. 

Simplicity 4047.  The fabric is silk and wool from Christine Jonson.  Matching the stripes was a  challenge!  The pattern design did not come with a closure, so I inserted a coat hook at center front.  The lining is acetate from JoAnn's fabric.  I used my embroidery machine to put a small initial inside the lining.