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Gene Larson's Shop Notes |
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A
Method to Form
A Photo Presentation
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By: Eugene Larson This
is a method to form Plank-on-Frame hull frames without going through the time
consuming process of developing every frame on paper. It also avoids
repeating errors in the original plans, or in your drafting. I
started this process several years ago, but became side tracked with other
projects. However, I am not the originator of this idea. I am applying
lessons learned from previous articles by model builders. The only one I can
recall right now is a section in a book by Donald McNarry
for his miniature hulls. This
is an "in process" shop note, and as the hull progresses additional
photos will be added here. This
hull is for the Chesapeake Bay Oyster Sloop J. T. Leonard. The scale
is 3/8" = 1' or 1/32. This conveniently makes a one inch dimension on
the prototype 1/32" on the model. The
plans and associated booklet Chesapeake Bay Sloops by Thomas Gillmer were obtained from the (This page has been formatted for easier printing) |
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Frame blanks being constructed of multiple futtock
pieces, and sistered. Three different blank shapes
are required for this hull. The pieces are 1/8" thick, 1/4" for a
full frame. |
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The hull blanks being squared and adjusted for
proper height for fitting in the building board |
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Outer edge of the frames being cut on a scroll saw.
Since only randomly do the frame coincide with station lines on the plans,
the frames are cut to the next larger frame. The frames then from steps when
assembled on the building board. |
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All the frames ar
installed on the building board. The spacing ("room and space") is
correct for this vessel. A war ship frames are much closer together. These
frames are cherry processed from logs from |
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The roughed in bow with the cant frames. These cant
frames are mentioned on the plans but not shown in any detail. The basswood
stem piece will be replaced with a scale and properly shaped piece of cherry in
the final building process. |
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One frame removed from the building board. After
shaping the outer edge it will be cut down on the inside to the proper frame
dimension. The frames were 4" x 8" "double sawn" (sistered). This will make these frames 1/4" square
in cross section. There probably will be the complaint that there is a lot of
"waste" to this method. Probably in the 90 percent range. I believe
this is offset by the time savings, and the accuracy. The cherry wood was
free, but even if purchased it would not amount to a large sum. |
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Detailed view of the stern area. The basswood will
be replaced with scale sternpost and deadwood of cherry. |
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After all the frames are in place the area between
them is filled with basswood cut so the grain is fore and aft. Note the
distinct steps in the pieces. All the basswood filler pieces will be
discarded later. |
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The hull is ready for final shaping. The most
forward stem area is filled with wood filler. |
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A view of the stern prior to shaping. |
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The
hull as it currently stands. It has been shaped with rasps and sandpaper, and
needs only some minor final sanding. Then the pieces will be disassembled and
the insides of the frames cut to shape. The hull will be reassembled in final
form and the planking begun. I was
surprised at how stable the hull in this form is. There has been no glue used
to hold the pieces together. The entire structure acted like a solid hull. |
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One cherry frame has been lifted for reference. |
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The cherry frame has been removed and a basswood
filler piece is pulled out a little. |
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Wood planking ready for the model. The long cherry
strips for hull planks are 1/16" x 1/4" (2" x 8"). The
holly deck planks are 1/16" x 1/8" (2" x 4"). The holly
has black craft paper glued to one edge to represent deck caulking. Note the
larger pieces of uncut holly with the black paper attached. (see other shop
notes) |
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