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 X-Tras + Train Cam 
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Enjoy the View from Train
Cam! - Click on the Picture Below!
Train Cam Plans
(Yes - I did it long Before K-Line did!) |
Get your Camera &
Receiver at www.X10.com
Copyright: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 -2007 - Jim Diavastes
No
Part of this website, it's photos or content may be downloaded,
copied
or used or distributed without the written permission of Jim Diavastes.
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Ok- the idea is to power the camera
from your track...
...or you can just use a 9v battery hooked directly
to the camera's + and - (- it will last about 2-4 hours).
Since your Track is 0-18volts AC - and the camera
runs on 12v DC - you need to convert AC to DC and
Then - make sure it never goes above 12volts
BECAUSE you don't want to blow up your new camera.
So you are going to build a simple voltage
regulator circuit.
Unlike many builders I choose not to use a 7812
voltage regulator chip -
BECAUSE - they only work when you are at or near
12 volts.
I have some engines that run fast enough on 8
volts - and by coincidence - so does the X10.
Even though the X10 camera comes with a 12V supply -
(It actually has it's own internal regulator that drops
down it's operating voltage to 7.5 or 8v.)
This allows the camera to operate sooner and at lower
voltages (mine turns on at 5v!)
Now
you can Special order a 7808 chip and use it - leaving out the 2
Resistors in my schematic
BUT
they're hard to find - AND I DON'T LIKE WAITING!
If you
want to use the 78XX voltage regulator chip, I have included the
schematic for that
lower
on this page.
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PARTS
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Here's
what you need - and you can get it all at Radio Shack -
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with the exception of the X10 Camera
(x10.com)
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and the flatbed Lionel car with a center
rail pickup on one or both trucks
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(steal from an old lighted caboose)!
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All ratings are for 1 amp or more
(meaning if it says 1 amp your ok - 5amps your still ok)
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1 Bridge rectifier (the diamond
shaped thingy at the left of the schematic)
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1-LM317T Voltage regulator IC -
(Looks like a rectangle with 3 legs)
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1 - 1000u or (up to 3000u) capacitor -
(they look like two T's facing head to head -labeled C)
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2-.1u capacitors - (the two T things
again -labeled C)
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2 Resistors - (1K and 180 ohms) - (Look like
Zigzags labeled
R)
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Other sizes or resistors to control output
voltage of LM317 chip...
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Using the formula 1.25 x (1+R2/R1) = 8
(it's for a 317 Chip)
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So... if you do the math you need R2/R1
to equal about 5.4 so you could use
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R2=1k (1000ohms) and R1=180 ohms
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Or any two sizes as long as when you
divide R2/R1 you get about 5.5.
1- 9v Batter connector & wires
(Optional)
1 - 9v Batter Clip (Optional)
1- DPDT switch
(Optional)
Some 18-24g Insulated Wire
(stranded is better for
flexibility)
A small 2"x 2" Circuit
Board
Solder
Gun and
Solder
A Dremel Tool is nice
So is a
Hot Glue gun
A sharp Razor Knife
Electrical Tape or Heat Shrink Tubing
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Keep it small to fit on the train car
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Hooking It Up...
Using the above schematic solder together all of the
parts - (or have your Know it All Friend Do it...)
Note: + sides of capacitors ALWAYS to + wire
coming out of + side of Bridge Rectifier and of the 317 Chip.
When you connect the Camera to the Power supply -
The Red AND White wires from the X10 Camera go to Positive DC "out"
The Shield or Black wire goes to ground or
Negative DC "out".
On the AC "in"side of the regulator - on wire goes
to the wheel side of the electrical pickup truck,
the other goes to the center rail pickup -
it doesn't matter which goes where since it's AC!
For better performance use two electrical center
rail trucks (front and back )
and wire them in parallel - Center to center,
outer rail to our rail (wheel side)
It's not on the schematic...
Now as you might have noticed - I added a DPDT
switch between the DC regulator and the Camera -
The center poles (+ -) go to the camera (+ -), one
other set goes to the output of the regulator (+ -),
the other terminals go to a 9v battery connector
(+ -).
This is so I can use a battery If I choose - this
will not charge the battery.
It will act as an On / Off switch if there is no
battery present.
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Putting it all together...
OK - Now you just need to mount the electronics.
I use heavy duty 3M plastic Velcro - available at radio shack - but you
can also use that double sided foam tape.
I put the circuit board on the back of the car - and built a little
cover over it.
Using craft wood and a hot glue gun works great.
I mounted the X10 cam by drilling a small hole in the flatbed - and
using a regular photographic mount screw -
(like from a tripod) to mount the X10 down to the car through it's
tripod mount.
I then added LOTS of weight.
This helps when you put this car out in front of your engine - keeps it
on the track!
The
Receiver...
Hook up the Receiver to your TV (Video in) or through your VCR's Video
In -
Point the flat side of the antennae on the receiver and the camera at
each other...
And you should be seeing your track!
Hint: Sometimes it helps to point the Camera Antennae Flat Side UP!
See your Camera Instructions for more hints! |
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I used just on truck wheel set with center electric pickup -
If you used two and wired them in parallel - the video would be even
smoother.
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The Other Way...
Here is the schematic for the 78xx Voltage Regulator
Chip - I would use a 7808 rather than a 7812
So the camera Turns on Sooner...
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Stuff!
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to Visit My 4 Stores!
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jdiavastes@verizon.net
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Copyright: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 -2009 - Jim Diavastes
No
Part of this website, it's photos or content may be downloaded,
copied
or used or distributed without the written permission of Jim Diavastes.
|
