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This is the electronic version of the Southern Yosemite Climbing Guide,
Supplement 1. The guide contains information about climbs in the Southern
Yosemite area which were not included in the first edition of Mark and
Shirley Spencer's guidebook (Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs, Condor Designs,
1988). Southern Yosemite is close to Yosemite Valley, sporting some big
walls and numerous fine domes. Despite several articles in climbing magazines
and the guidebook mentioned above, this place is rarely visited by more
than a handful climbers a year. The campers, boaters and hunters know about
its beauty. Southern Yosemite is not hip and it is not the intention of
this little guide to change that. But if you are an adventureous soul who
wants to get away from the scene once in a while, this is a great place
to visit.
Location
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South of Yosemite National Park -- what a surprise. This road
map provides a general overview of the directions described here. The
two main roads that provide access to the climbing areas are Minaret Road
and Beasore. Minaret Road is the better of the two; it provides good access
to most of the domes. Minaret Road leads to North Fork. It runs high above
the San Joaquin River and eventually joins Beasore, forming a a loop leading
back to Bass Lake. Beasore is a good approach choice if you want to climb
in the Shuteye Ridge area. Seasonal snow, creek crossings and a rough surface
serve to complete the backcountry experience.
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For up to date information call the Minaret Ranger station at (209) 877-2218.
Climbing season
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The climbing season in Southern Yosemite depends on snow and corresponding
road closures. Roads may be impassable after the first winter storm, usually
in December, and usually remain closed until March/April. Minaret Road
opens much earlier than Beasore due to its southern exposure. Until May,
streams may be difficult to cross, and snow may be present at higher elevations.
In general, the best climbing is from late summer through fall. Wear a
loud shirt during hunting season or you may end up as a prize trophy.
Gas, Food, Lodging
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Gas, food and odd things may be available at Jones Store and at
the Mammoth Pool Campground. Plan ahead -- both have limited hours! If
you are in the mood for some fine dining, you may want to wait for our
Hinterland Dining Guide, coming out soon.
Camping is currently free at Soda Springs campground, Bowlers
Campground, and in the National Forest. Fees are collected in BLM campgrounds
($12/night). There are plans to install hot showers in some of the campgrounds.
Where will it end?
Water: In the majority of the campgrounds, no potable water is
available. Water from streams should be boiled or purified -- giardia is
present in the area.
References
Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs, Mark and Shirley Spencer, Condor
Designs, 1988.
American Alpine Journal #58, p.116
Climbing #111, 115, 119
Rock & Ice #38
Disclaimer
Climbing is hazardous. The author is not responsible for your actions.
Use your good judgement under all circumstances. Climb at your own risk.