YZF auto decomp e-cam installation

 

Original Denso U24ESR-N spark plug with 85 miles on it

Closeup reading of Denso plug - picture 1

Closeup reading of Denso plug - picture 2

Closeup reading of Denso plug - picture 3, nice clean plug, mixture looks good!

This picture illustrates the side view of the e-cam with the decomp bump protruding - at low RPM, the weighted arm is pulled in via the spring causing the bump to protrude

Front view of e-cam with decomp bump protruding

This picture illustrates the side view of the e-cam with the decomp bump recessed - at high RPM, the weighted arm will swing out causing the bump to recess

Front view of e-cam with decomp bump recessed

Rear view of e-cam - picture 1

Rear view of e-cam - picture 2

Compression test 1, this is with the original WR e-cam (85 original miles), I did NOT use the manual decomp lever, just kicked it right through about 15 good kicks - remember to keep the kill button down to avoid sparks!

Compression test 2, this is with the original WR e-cam (85 original miles), I did NOT use the manual decomp lever, just kicked it right through about 15 good kicks - remember to keep the kill button down to avoid sparks!

Compression test 1, this is with the YZF auto decomp e-cam (swapped in at 85 original miles), about 15 good kicks - remember to keep the kill button down to avoid sparks!

Compression test 2, this is with the YZF auto decomp e-cam (swapped in at 85 original miles), about 15 good kicks - remember to keep the kill button down to avoid sparks!

This is the Actron PC7828 compression tester that I used (www.actron.com), it can be bought at AutoZone - it has the 10mm adaptor that you'll need

Helpful hints for this mod:

1) I only had to remove the e-cam assembly - I left the intake cam assembly alone.

2) Don't remove the cam chain tensioner until you have found TDC by turning the engine counter clockwise, otherwise the chain will slip!

3) Use a sharpie to mark the 12 o'clock marks on the cam chain for BOTH cams incase you accidently slip the cam chain.

4) Once TDC is found, tie the wrench down with a zip-tie to keep everything from moving. Also zip-tie the intake cam to the cam chain so that it won't slip.

5) Even though the space is tight, I found it easiest to put the 'C' clip on the cam, then the cam into the cam cover, then the whole thing onto the head (all while connected to the cam chain) - if you do it the other way, i.e. put the cam on the head, then the 'C' clip, then the cam cover, you may miss align the cam cover over the cam so be careful!

6) Once the cam cover is on, while the cam tensioner is still off, turn the e-cam (by hand, just slightly since there is still slack, not with the wrench) to make sure it moves freely before installing the cam tensioner. Then cut the zip-tie holding the wrench in place and turn the engine counter clockwise with the wrench and make sure everything is moving properly and freely before putting the head cover on.

This is the TDC mark in the peep window for my 02 WR250F, use a 14mm ratchet to turn the motor counter clockwise to find TDC

I used a zip tie to keep the wrench in place (tied to the foot peg)

This is how both cams should line up at TDC after the auto decomp e-cam is installed - note that there are 12 pins between the 12 o'clock marks

This is how the cam lobes should line up looking from the rear of the cams - picture 1

This is how the cam lobes should line up looking from the rear of the cams - picture 2

This is how the cam lobes should line up looking from the rear of the cams - picture 3