Some of the dishes at Baby Buddha (753 Washington street ; 627-8131) are outstanding But not the ones the staff recommends. Avoid, for example, the spicy homemade oxtail (“strictly airline food.” the diner behind me lamented; $8.75) and the much borax hoed snails, which look more like periwinkles and aren’t worth the effort of digging out ($7.95).

But three dishes make the trip to this far-West Village hangout worthwhile:

• The baby barbecue ribs ($5.45), be cause even the best soul food restaurants and barbecue joints seldom serve ribs as flavorful as these, and when they do, they charge double ($5.45). Baby Buddha’s aren’t the least bit fatly but are crisp, and they’re coated in something more complex than the usual sherry-ginger-and soy-sauce sludge.
  
• The pan-fried pepper shell shrimp ($9.95). Unless you live next door to nice Restaurant, a Chinatown landmark, you ’re not going to find any as well made. One serving supplies you with twelve shrimp perfectly seasoned with salt, pepper, scallions, and some magic ingredient that dudes this this writer and apparently most cooks.
  
• Chinese home-style bean curd ($6.25). Given the fact that tofu really doesn’t have any flavor, look what one small kitchen can do with a few blocks and fresh ginger.
  

Someone at Baby Buddha knows something about classical music, and for anyone who’s interested, the front tables offer a flawless view of the old bell Laboratories building where the transistor was invented.

Baby Buddha is open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:30 AM to 4:00 PM, and Saturday and Sunday noon to 4:00 PM, and for dinner every day form 4:00 PM to Midnight ;beer and wine; AE, DC, MC, V.