Midi Music
A Jacobean carol-"The Boar's Head"(annon.), 3K
An Excellent Boilled SaladIngredients:10 ounces spinach2 T butter 5/8 c currants 3 T wine vinegar 4 T sugar 1 lb loaf of white bread or more, toasted (sippets) Instructions:
To make an excellent compound boil'd Sallat: take of Spinage well washt two or three
handfuls, and put it into faire water and boile it till it bee exceeding soft and tender as pappe;
then put it into a Cullander and draine the water from it, which done, with the backside of
your Chopping-knife chop it and bruise it as small as may bee: then put it into a Pipkin with a
good lump of sweet butter and boile it over again; then take a good handfull of Currants
cleane washt and put to it, and stirre them well together, then put to as much Vinegar as will
make it reasonable tart, and then with sugar season it according to the taste of the Master of
the house, and so serve it upon sippets.Gervase Markham, The English Huswife, 1615, book 2, p. 40, order rearranged by Editor.
Pottage with Whole HerbsIngredients:mutton, veal, or kid: 1 lb veal1 1/2 c oatmeal 3 1/2 oz lettuce generous handful spinach (~ 1.5 oz) 1 small endive (2 oz) 2 oz chiccory 5 flowerettes cauliflower 2 small onions 1/2 T salt verjuice: 1 T wine vinegar 6 slices of toast (sippets) Instructions:
Take mutton, veal or kid, break the bones but do not cut up the flesh, wash, put in a pot with
water. When ready to boil and well skimmed, add a handful or two of small oatmeal. Take
whole lettuce, the best inner leaves, whole spinach, whole endive, whole chiccory, whole
leaves of colaflorry [cauliflower?] or the inward parts of white cabbage, with two or three
onions. Put all into the pot until done. Season with salt and as much verjuice as will only turn
the taste of the pottage; serve up covering meat with whole herbs and addorning the dish
with sippets.Editors Note: Cook veal whole about 1/2 hour in enough water to cover. The vegetables were added as soon as the water came to a boil and was skimmed. Gervase Markham, The English Huswife, 1615, book 2, p. 48, order rearranged by Editor.
Excellent Small CakesIngredients:3 c flour3/4 c sugar 3/4 lb currants = about 2 1/2 c 3/8 lb butter = 1 1/2 sticks 2 1/2 T cream 1 egg yolk 1/4 t nutmeg 2 t sack (Editor: we used sherry) Instructions:
Take three pound of very fine flower well dried by the fire,
and put to it a pound and a half of
loaf sugar sifted in a very fine sieve and dried; 3 pounds of currants well washed, and dried in
a cloth and set by the fire; when your flour is well mixed with the sugar and currants, you
must put in it a pound and a half of unmelted butter, ten spoonfuls of cream, with the yolks of
three newlaid eggs beat with it, one nutmeg; and if you please, three spoonfuls of sack. When
you have wrought your paste well, you must put it in a cloth, and set it in a dish before the
fire, till it be through warm. Then make them up in little cakes, and prick them full of holes;
you must bake them in a quick oven unclosed. Afterwards ice them over with sugar. The
cakes should be about the bigness of a hand breadth and thin; of the size of the sugar cakes
sold at Barnet.Editor's Note: All of this assumes that "spoonful" = Tablespoon. Cut butter into the flour as one would for piecrust. Bake cakes about 20 minutes at 350deg. Icing: about 1/3 c sugar and enough water so you can spread it. Sir Kenelm Digby, The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby, Opened, 1669, p. 221/175, order rearranged by Editor.
To Make a CustardeIngredients:1 pie crust2 c cream 3 egg yolks 1/4 c sugar 1/3 c raisins 1/4 c dates 3 t butter (or marrow) Instructions:A Custarde the coffyn must be fyrste hardened in the oven, and then take a quart of creame and fyve or syxe yolkes of egges, and beate them well together, and put them into the creame, and put in Suger and small Raysyns and Dates sliced, and put into the coffyn butter or els marrowe, but on the fyshe daies put in butter.Editor's Note: Make pie crust and pre-bake for 10-15 minutes at 400deg. . Chop dates. Beat the eggs, add cream, sugar, raisins and dates and pour into pie crust. Dot pie with butter. Bake at 350deg. for 1 hour 15 minutes. Catherine Frances Frere, ed. A Proper Newe Booke of Cokerye, Cambridge: W. Heffer and sons, Ltd., 1913 (original from the 1500's), p. 23/C7, order rearranged by Editor.
Cask Conditioned AleBeing a redaction and recreation of a 1577 beer recipeBrewed and Presented by HLS Rauţúlfr Rúnameistari
This beverage is the redaction of a recipe which appears in: A Sip Through time: A collection of Old
Brewing Recipes, by Cindy Renfrow, 1994. It came about as I was looking over the redaction
which Ms. Renfrow gave for the recipe and upon close comparison with the original found it
wanting. The matter of her error lead me to ignore her proposed redaction in preparing the one
which I give. The key was her failure to recognize the fact that the recipe was intended to yield three
batches of eighty gallons each, while she numbered only two.[ A Sip Through time: A collection of
Old Brewing Recipes, by Cindy Renfrow, 1994, p. 4.] The original is from The Description of
England, by William Harrison, 1577; The original and my redaction are given in parallel text
beginning on page 2.
Recreating this recipe required a very different approach to brewing than that to which I am
accustomed. Among other things I have never worked with open fermentation before, nor have I
ever attempted to cask condition beer before. The open fermentation turned out to be much less
mysterious than I originally expected, however the matter of cask conditioning was not so simply
solved nor so simply researched.
The entry consists of three parts. The first is the redaction of the recipe itself. The second is the cask
conditioned ale. The third is the same brew bottled. Bottling the majority of the brew provides
something of a known quantity against which to judge the qualities of that which is cask conditioned.
On the whole, this was an interesting project. I have documented the process point by point following the recipe. Because of the complexity of the recipe, the discussion is perhaps longer than I might have preferred. "Nevertheless," he says, "sith I have taken occasion to speake of bruin", I will exemplifie in such a proportion as I am best skilled in, bicause it is the usuall rate for mine owne familie, and once in a moneth practiced by my wife and hir maid servants, who proceed withall after this maner, as she hath oft informed me. Having therefore groond eight bushels of good malt upon our querne, where the toll is saved, she addeth unto it half a bushel of wheat meale, and so much of otes small groond, and so tempereth or mixeth them with the malt, that you cannot easily discerne the one from the other, otherwise these later would clunter, fall into lumps, and thereby become unprofitable.
The first liquor which is full eightie gallons according to the proportion of our furnace, she maketh
boiling hot, and then powreth it softlie into the malt, where it resteth (but without stirring) untill hir
second liquor be almost ready to boile.
This is all the introduction which is included by Ms. Renfrow.
These quantities converted into pounds would be:
[Conversions based upon The Complete Anachronist: Issues 81 and 82]The English Bushel = 8 gallons of wheat a gallon of wheat = 8 troy pounds = 64 troy pounds 53 US pounds per bushel = 421 pounds of malt; 27 pounds of wheat; 27 pounds of oats. 2 Troy pounds of hops = 1.65 US pounds
Observations and surmises:What we do not know based upon the recipe above.
The recipe:The original recipe was:421 pounds of malt; 27 pounds of wheat meal; 27 pounds of ground oats 1.65 pounds of hops for batch one No hops for batch two 1 1/2 -2 pounds of hops for batch three 240 gallons of water
Converting these amounts for the production of five gallons of beer gave these rounded amounts:
The Redaction: The reasons why were:
The Process:
Because of the winter household temperature, two days before the start of brewing the yeast was
activated. It was placed in a 2 liter bottle with an air trap. Roughly one quart of nutrient wort was
mixed up and one ounce of trappist yeast was added. Trappist yeast was selected for reasons noted
earlier. Brewing was begun using a six gallon stainless steel pot with five gallons of water which was
brought to a boil. The sugar and the malt was added to this before the water was removed from the
heat and poured over the grain. The grains were placed in a six gallon pot with a mesh bag lining it to
aid in removing the grain. The boiling water and the malt was poured over this and the wort was
allowed to steep for 1 1/2 hour. After that time, the grain was removed from the liquor, and was
allowed to drain completely. The Grain was lightly squeezed to extract the most water possible. The
liquor was then returned to the heat and the hops were added. The liquor was simmered for 1 1/2
hours and was not allowed to boil. It remained at about degrees F. for that time. Fermentation was
open, in a ten gallon crock. The yeast was added after the temperature fell to about 85 degrees F.
Because of the winter temperature of my home, I used a warming pad under the crock to help
maintain a constant temperature at night. The temperature remained between 70o and 80o during
fermentation. Fermentation was very slow in beginning, and so on the next day I added one ounce of
a standard dry brewers-yeast. This seemed to liven things up. One difference between open and
closed fermentation was apparent rather quickly. While one does hear gasses escaping from the trap
with closed fermentation, one can hear a constant hiss from the open crock. There is also an
increased brewing aroma, which is probably to be expected. On the whole, the effect is to make it
more obvious that something is indeed happening!
Appendix IPeriod Aids to Fermentation:
I have encountered two possible methods for starting fermentation which could apply in this instance.
Both examples are from a slightly post-period document The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby, Knight,
Opened. This work was published posthumously in 1669, Digby having died in 1665.
1). The Use of Ale-Yeast for fermentation
The first is from a Currant-wine recipe found on P.98. I reproduce the entire recipe here: CURRANTS-WINE
TAKE a pound of the best Currants clean picked, and pour upon them in a deep straight mouthed
earthen vessel six pounds or pints of hot water, in which you have dissolved three spoonfuls of the
purest and newest Ale-yest. Stop it very close till it ferment, then give such vent as is necessary, and
keep it warm for about three days, it will work and ferment. Taste it after two days, to see if it be
grown to your liking. As soon as you find it so, let it run through a strainer, to leave behind all the
exhausted currants and the yest, and so bottle it up. It will be exceeding quick and pleasant, and is
admirable good to cool the Liver, and cleanse the blood. It will be ready to drink in five or six days
after it is bottled; And you may drink safely large draughts of it.
The significant portion is the passage: in which you have dissolved three spoonfuls of the purest and
newest Ale-yeast. While we do not know when Digby actually set down these words, we do know
that sometime prior to 1665 Ale-yeast was used in the fermentation process. It is therefore
reasonable to suppose that they existed before 1650.
2). The use of Ale-Barm for fermentation.
The second method is found in a Scotch-Ale recipe which immediately follows the Currant-wine
recipe. I am only including the relevant portion here:
Producing Ale-Barm
...This quantity (of a hogshead) will require better then a quart of the best Ale-barm, which you must
put to it thus. Put it to about three quarts of wort, and stir it, to make it work well. When the barm is
risen quick scum it off to put to the rest of the wort by degrees. The remaining Liquor (that is the
three quarts) will have drawn into it all the heavy dregs of the barm, and you may put it to the Ale of
the second running, but not to this. Put the barm, you have scummed off (which will be at least a
quart) to about two gallons of the wort, and stir it to make that rise and work. Then put two Gallons
more to it. Doing thus at several times, till all be mingled, which will require a whole day to do.
Cover it close, and let it work, till it be at it's height, and begin to fall, which may require ten or
twelve hours, or more. Watch this well, least it sink too much, for then it will be dead. Then scum off
the thickest part of the barm, and run your Ale into the hogshead, leaving all the bung open a day or
two. Then lay a strong Paper upon it....
Because of I was only producing five gallons, I doubted that I could produce sufficient ale-barm to
proceed without the addition of yeast. Additionally, I wanted to disturb the open fermenter as little
as possible to maintain sanitation.
Appendix IIThe Cask, and this competition
The cask was a two gallon wooden container of white Oak. There are some differences between
this oak and the oak used for casks in England, but there are limits to the availability of an
authentically English Oak cask. Of greater significance is the fact that, the smaller container presents
some alterations on what we can expect.
Appendix IIIConversion factors:Ounce (Troy)
= 480 grains
= 480 minums
= 31 grams
= 8 dramsOunce (Avoirdupois)
= 437.5 grains
= 28.35 gramsPound (Troy)
= 5,760 grains
= 12 Troy ouncesPound (Avoirdupois)
= 7,000 grains
= 16 Avoirdupois ouncesThe English Bushel = 8 gallons of wheat A gallon of wheat = 8 wheat pounds = 8 troy pounds Bibliography:Campaign For Real Ale, Cellarmanship: Caring For Real Ale, Campaign for Real Ltd. St. Albans, 1994Digby, Sir Kenelm. The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby, Knight, Opened: Newly Edited with Introduction, Notes and Glossary by Anne MacDonell, Philip Lee Warner, London, 1910 The Complete Anachronist:
Renfrow, Cindy. A Sip Through time: A collection of Old Brewing Recipes, 1994 BEER- 1577 From The Description of England, by William Harrison, 1577.
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