Jamie and Clinton's Web Site

Montreal Travelogue

Montreal Photos

Montreal has been a reliable any-season getaway for us for a long time now. First we checked out the bars, and other activities, on Ste Catherine's Street. Nobody needs our help finding the fun and busy clubs and shops in this fantastically alive gay neighborhood. We have found lots of other interesting places as we've explored this city, and we have developed strong feelings for Montreal. It's a unique place. Its most valuable asset is its people. Go with your eyes and heart open and you will be rewarded. It's friendly, flirtatious, cosmopolitan yet unpretentious. It's very "what you see is what you get." And for the record, the coldest temperature we have ever experienced in our lives, -26C, was on a February night in our beloved Montreal!

Getting Around Montreal by Public Transportation

Typically we stay at the Hotel du Gouverneurs if we're not staying with friends. This high rise hotel is a convenient option and they usually have good weekend rates. It's on Ste Catherine's Street adjacent to the entrance of Berri/UQAM metro station. If you make a reservation at this hotel, keep your confirmation and call again to confirm before your trip. Trust me it's a good idea. It's an easy walk to anyplace you want to go on Ste Catherine's Street. We've eaten at a lot of restaurants in Montreal. Some have been great, some not so good. Our far and away favorite? Le Commensal! This vegetarian buffet restaurant makes the entire trip worth it for us, and we usually eat there at least twice. The location nearest the Hotel du Gouverneurs is at 1720 Rue Ste Denis, north of Blvd. de Maisonneuve. The cost of your meal is determined by the weight of your plate after you've made all of your selections. Load up! It's the best vegetarian food ever and I do mean ever! For a fixed menu vegetarian dinner the best place is Au Vivre at 4631 St Laurent. Yes, we've been to Spirite Lounge, which amazingly seems to be still open. It's a kooky one-off experience that we enjoyed less each time we went. The service and the temperamental owner get bad reviews. The location is 1205 Rue Ontario E. Don't forget to check out Happy Cow for a listing of other veggie restaurants in Montreal and around the world. A bright culinary spot in the gay village is Mozza at 1208 rue St Catherine E. near Montcalm. Call for reservations because this place is intimate and fills up for dinner. You can bring your own wine and enjoy some really thoughtful Italian dishes at a super slow leisurely pace.

Also recommended, Saloon at 1333 Rue Ste Catherine Est, in the heart of the gay village. Good for basic foodage and guy watching. The best French bistro in town (not just my opinion!) is L'Express at 3927 Rue St Denis. It's busy, noisy, and feels a lot like, well, France. Reservations recommended even for lunch. The menu is basically a list of animal body parts prepared as only the French can prepare them. Sucking the marrow out of cow calves is just the beginning of the fun at L'Express! Yes I'm being a bit sarcastic. Go try it for yourself, vegetarians beware.

Hotel du Gouverneurs Montreal / Place Dupuis

Admittedly, we go to Montreal to shop for clothes. The styles are better, the selections are always more diverse, and the prices are comparable if not lower than in the USA. Our first stop is usually Simons, a big department store with a wide range of prices and styles at 977 St Catherine Ouest in downtown Montreal. This is a must if you're here to shop for men's clothes. You won't be disappointed if you're looking for something a little different. Also downtown is Zara (low quality high fashion uber-euro stuff) and Les Aix de la Mode. If, for whatever reason, you're driving through Laval, try Carrefour Laval, a trendy mall along Autoroute 15 just before Autoroute 440. There's a housewares store in the mall called le Living. The staff there instantly recognizes wandering gay men on a spending spree and they will be very helpful. The Simons location at Carrefour Laval is less hectic and picked-over than the downtown store.

Happy Cow Directory of Vegetarian Restaurants

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Partial View of Notre Dame Cathedral

The soul of Montreal seems to be Catholic. We are not Catholic, but it's hard not to recognize the beauty of some of the churches around the city, and the local effort that went into building them. The Basilique Notre Dame is the most beautiful church I have ever seen, anywhere. It is in Vieux (Old) Montreal, south of the Place d'Armes metro station. The alter is indescribable. Don't miss the smaller chapel behind the main alter and the incredible relief sculpture / facade on the far wall. Farther afield is the Oratoire Saint Joseph. Art Deco meets Catholicism meets the Space Age is the best way to describe the fantastic, austere, somewhat futuristic interior of this church. The side garden is open in summer where you'll find an art deco-style series of sculptures depicting what appear to be the Stations of the Cross. Two words for this place: photo op! The nearest metro station is Cote des Neiges, but there's also plenty of parking here. Don't miss the founder Brother Andre's heart, it's on display in a sealed box. I'm serious.

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Vieux Montreal

Saint Joseph's Oratoire Official Website

The Contemporary Art Museum is always worth a look, located above the metro station Place des Arts. We have also seem some interesting shows at the Centre Canadien d'Architecture. Check their website for updates. If for some reason you're looking for gourmet items or fresh food, try Marche Atwater, a groovy indoor/outdoor place with lots of produce, cheese, etc. It's about four blocks south of Lionel Groulx metro station. The ultimate place to spend an afternoon in Montreal in the warm season is the Jardin Botanique. This extremely large garden is home to a beautiful greenhouse with banzai trees! (my favorite). There is a rose garden, Japanese and Chinese gardens, Insectarium, Alpine Garden, First Nations garden, interpretive center, experimental gardens and large areas just for wandering. It's also close to the Biodome, you'll like this place if you're geeks like us! It's an indoor habitat featuring four different environmental zones that you can wander through. Metro station Pie IX is closest to the garden and metro Viau is closer to the Biodome entrance.

Montreal Contemporary Art Museum

Centre Canadien d'Architecture

Botanical Garden, Biodome, Insectarium

Montreal Tourism Information

There's a lot more to say about Montreal. We just love being there, and we've been there so often that we actually have a bit of a routine that we fall into when we're there. It varies depending on the season, but always involves visits to most of the places I've talked about. Of course its not necessary to speak French, but if you walk around only using English you will miss out on a huge part of what makes this place special. Even a tiny effort in French will be appreciated, at least in our experience. Please go to Montreal and see it for yourself!

Clinton Bench and Jamie Turner
www.jamieandclinton.net