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To outsiders like us, Guerneville radiates an odd, mixed-up vibe. As if the spirits of Bohemia, Northern Exposure, Twin Peaks
and the Folsom Street Fair all contributed equal parts in its creation. The town itself belies its Sonoma County location.
Practically buried in a steep valley surrounded by redwoods, it gives no clues to its proximity to boutique wineries a little
ways further inland. Maybe this isolation is what has allowed it to keep its charm (or its randomness) while more accessible
parts of the county give way to subdivisions and strip malls full of UPS stores and temp agencies. To be sure, northern Sonoma
County is mercifully free of suburban blight in its ugliest forms. But Guerneville seems untouched by development of any
flavor. Aside from some cosmic shield or psychic force, we are at a loss to explain what is protecting this town from northern
Californication.
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Anecdotally I'm told that Guerneville has lost much of what made it interesting in years past. People say that it's "less
gay" than before. We are unable to confirm or deny rumours of its demise. What we can confirm is this: if you're looking
for an excuse to wear a flannel shirt, drink wine, kayak, shoot pool, hot tub under the stars or watch the fog lick the redwoods,
then this is the place for you.
The Highlands Resort is tucked away up the hill above the Coffee Bazaar and a small church. The proximity to Coffee Bazaar is only one of the
reasons to stay here (but it's a good one!). The owners have really nailed the art of being present when you need them but
not "ever-present." They are fun to talk with and have lots and lots of local information. Pick their brains! Some of the
cabins have been nicely updated and the gas fireplaces crank out the heat on cold nights. The hot tub is private and secluded
but there are tasteful reminders posted asking guests to take new friends back to their rooms thus avoiding the bathhouse
under the stars vibe. Understandably the bubbles, the cool air, the night sky and the redwoods, definitely set the mood!
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Ready for our wine recommendations? As we may have mentioned elsewhere on the website,
Hop Kiln is the sentimental favorite. I could sip a glass of their Thousand Flowers blend every day. But, for crafted, thoughtful,
intensely local stuff, we have several other places that we recommend.
David Coffaro in the Dry Creek area is blending like a madman. Walk into the cavernous space, let your eyes adjust a bit, then get a spot
at the tasting counter, shut up and listen to everything these guys have to say about their wines, especially the blends.
They seem to know exactly what they're doing! My tastebuds say so!
Davis Bynum in the Russian River area makes classy, sophisticated reds where each sip is like a big grapey velvety hug. Once a week
or so I go into my basement and look at my Davis Bynum Meritage and think "mmmm... someday my pretty... but today the taste
of anticipation is all I need." Unfortunately, the beautiful Davis Bynum tasting room seems to have closed. If anyone has
information about whether or not it will reopen we are all ears.
Limerick Lane's Syrah and old vine Zins are the best of these two varietals in northern Sonoma County. In
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| Csaba admiring his favorite Redwood tree |
Before we rush off to the vineyards let's make sure we address the stunning natural beauty of this area! After several trips
we've covered most of the natural areas that are day-trippable from Guerneville.
Sonoma Coast State Park is a large stretch of shoreline south of Jenner, the coastal town closest to Guerneville. Take Hwy 116 (River Road) west
out of Guerneville through Monte Rio. Turn left onto Highway 1 before you reach Jenner and look for a sign to Goat Rock.
Turn right and follow Goat Rock Road all the way down to a parking lot. This is hardcore Pacific scenery, some of the best
anywhere on the American Pacific coastline in our opinion! More scenic surprises await both south and north on Hwy 1... so
go on and explore!
Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve is north of town on Armstrong Woods Road (this is the road that Coffee Bazaar is on). Park in the lot at the entrance and
go inside and talk to the volunteer to get the full story on the area. The land once hosted an important artist colony, and
the grove itself is walkable from the parking lot (no need to pay a car entrance fee to stroll around). We were most impressed
by the silence. The trees act like giant sound absorbers. We were there on a cold misty morning. The forest was filled
with winter fog, beams of morning light, and not one single sound! Well, except for the sound of the three of us going "ooh,
aaawwwweesomme, etc."
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| Russian River Vineyard Panorama |
fact, I have never had a better Zin than the one(s) they produce. If you are lucky enough to be there while they are selling
a Rose grab as many bottles as you can carry!
Mazzocco is all about Zin but we enjoyed their kick-ass Cab! And one of the ladies working there is a riot. I have never come so
close to getting tipsy as we did at Mazzocco! Mostly because we were having such a blast!
Zichichi has a great story behind it, of a guy following his dreams to make wine. And he's doing an amazing job for such a young
place.
Talty, similarly, is a small operation. We called ahead for a tasting and it was sooooo worth the effort. If you're curious about
a place and you notice a phone number posted on their sign or website, do not hesitate to call it! The proprietors are probably
on-site or nearby and they're happy to arrange a time to meet up for a tasting. The folks at Talty were very gracious and
we were lucky enough to time our tasting with a couple of wine experts who were also out driving around, so we just listened
and learned.
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We have only had a few decidedly unimpressive experiences in the area. I'll mention them but in fairness it may have just
not been a good time to visit these wineries. That being said, we won't be going back to Papapietro Perry and Foppiano.
But, definitely try to hit the small
Family Wines collective tasting room across the parking lot from Papapietro Perry along Dry Creek Road.
Clinton Bench and Jamie Turner
www.jamieandclinton.net
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