Inoperative Rear Blower
Whining noise from the Transmission
Difficulty Starting, Stalling in Hot Weather
Door locks with a Mind of Their Own
Reprogramming the Keyless Entry Keypad
Programming the Remote Keyless Entry
A Clunking sound from the Underside
Dim or Inoperative Brake Lights
Worn Control Arm Bushings
Front End Clunk Noise
DIY Timing Belt Change
Inoperative Sliding Door Power Lock
Under hood Rattle coming from the Distributor
Rattling Sliding Door
Check Engine Light
Knocking Noise from Engine When it is Cold
No Heat from the Heater
What's This E-AT Switch for?
Rear Latch on Sliding Door Popping Open
Where's the PCV valve?
Lights out on the Heating-A/C controller
Rear Sliding Door Will Not Stay Open
Engine Runs Poorly When Warmed Up
Radio Display is Blank
"On the factory stereos from Ford they used two types of displays. One is a LCD display with a light bulb behind to illuminate the segments of the display. Replacement of this bulb can be tricky but not impossible.Also, you can try here: http://www.shareamemory.com/radio/.
On the stereos with the blue/green Vacuum Florescent Displays (VFD) the problem is usually caused by broken solder connections to the display board or the Tube. On most VFD’s the last two pins on each end are the filament and if the solder connection breaks it will not let the tube light the segments. Most VFD’s will out last the life of the car but they do burnout.
Another problem to check for is if the tube itself is broken. It is a glass tube."
"I decided to try a bushing from a 93 Maxima. It was 20 dollars and fit great (slightly different but fits with no modification). Instead of paying $550 for the lower control arms and having to rebuild the entire front end, it cost $40 and less than two hours of work.Back to the top
PS If someone wants to do the front bushings on the lower control arm, there is a part from ADUS #596 that replaces the existing bushing. Removal of the arm is required."