Maintenance Tips
Tune Up | Front Brakes
Ignition Tune Up
Before you Start: Read through this so you know what you need and
what to expect.
Recommended service intervals
The manual states 30,000 miles for the spark plugs on 93-98 models and 100,000
for 99 and later models, but does not specify
for the distributor cap, rotor, or the spark plug wires. You replace
these when you find a problem with them, or you can replace them at regular
intervals. My old rule of thumb used to be 60,000 mi. but these wires
don't suffer too much abuse and the cap and rotor seem to hold up well.
I'm willing to bet that you can replace these at 100,000 mi intervals and
not experience any problems with these components. The caveat is that
you have to use good quality replacement parts to expect the parts to hold
up for this amount of time.
Note:
The 100,000 mi. tune up interval on the '99 and later models is the result
of the use of platinum spark plugs and possibly an improved output from the
ignition system. Bosch platinum and Bosch +4 spark plugs are not the same
as other platinum spark plugs and I recommend replacing the standard Bosch
Platinum after 30,000 miles. I do not know enough about the Bosch +4 plugs to
comment on a change interval.
Supplies
- Spark plug wrench/socket with a twelve inch extension.
- Anti-seize compound
- Dielectric grease
- New Spark Plugs
- Spark Plug gapping tool
Specs
- Spark Plug Gap -- 0.8-0.9mm (0.031-0.035 inch)
- Spark Plug Torque -- 20 - 29 N-m (14 - 22 Lb-Ft)
More Preparation
The very first thing you should do is to ensure that any loose dirt
or other material in the recesses for the spark plugs have been removed from
the recesses before removing the plugs. This can be done by blowing out
the recesses with compressed air(the use of safety glasses is recommended).
If you do not have a source for compressed air, you can hose it out with
water. The problem with using water is that now you have to wait until
the water dries up in the recesses. If are going to use water for this,
plan to do it in way that you allow enough time for the water to dry up.
Do it the day before you plan to change the plugs and drive it so that
the engine warms up and evaporates the water. Another possible method is to
blow through a rolled up piece of paper. I suppose a piece of clean vacuum
hose would work as long as it is sufficient in diameter.
Now that all the dirt is out of the way, you can start changing the
spark plugs. While not necessary, you should change the plugs on a cool
engine. It is more convenient and probably safer for you to work on
a cool engine. Also, make sure you schedule enough time for you to do
this without having to hurry. Be methodical and take your time.
Changing the Spark Plugs
Did you gap your new spark plugs? If not, gap all of them now. Do not
expect the spark plug to have the correct gap from the manufacturer. Check
the gap to be sure. It is important to remember to replace each spark plug
one at a time. This will help prevent the possibility of mixing up the spark
plug wires. The nice thing about this engine is that all the spark plugs
are easily accessible from the top of the engine as long as you have a spark
plug wrench that can reach the plugs in the rear. When removing the old
plugs you may find that the plugs might be difficult to remove. When installing
the new plugs, put some anti-seize compound on the threads and thread the
new plugs in by hand. The head on this engine is aluminum, which makes
it susceptible to cross threading. This is part where taking your time to
do it right can save you from having to have the threads in the head repaired.
Hopefully with the anti-seize compound they won't be so difficult to remove
the next time. You can either use the torque spec for tightening the spark plug
or you can just tighten 1/16 of a turn after the plug makes contact with the head.
Also, spread some dielectric grease around the inside of
the spark plug boot. The purpose of this is to prevent the spark from "leaking"
out between the boot and the porcelain insulator.
About Spark Plug Wires
Whenever you change your plugs inspect the wires for any damage or deterioration.
Look for cracks and splits in the boots and the insulation. Also check for places where the wires
may have become chafed and the insulation was been worn thin. It is possible to check condition of the conductor inside the plug wire with a multimeter. The resistance should be fairly close to 7k ohms. Length is a factor in measuring the resistance. Expect the longer wires to have a slightly higher reading than the shorter wires.
Other notes:
If you experience problems with missing when the ignition components get wet, then
you have a problem with the something in the ignition system. This would likely be faulty plug wires or an improperly seated plug wire. The ignition system is designed to withstand moisture to a limit. Ignition problems after using a pressure washer in the
engine compartment might be expected. The high pressure can put water inside the distributor,
which can cause the engine to miss and run poorly until the distributor is dried out. Normal rain and a hose down from a garden hose should not cause this type of problem. Missing when wet is the sign of an ignition deficiency.
Front Brake Pad Replacement
My Opinions
Personally, I prefer OEM for the front pads. The OEM pads from Nissan
have a self adhesive backing that eliminate the need for any
anti-squeal compound. When I got he Nissan pads I noticed that they
were manufactured by Akebono. The Tire Rack carries Akebono pads for
these vans for less than the OEM price. If I remember correctly, the
Akebono pads from the Tire Rack do not have the self adhesive backing.
These days I no longer use anti-squeal compound and use silicon grease
where the backing plate comes in contact with the caliper. Whether or
not you want to use silicone grease in place of anti-squeal compound,
you should have some silicone grease or disk brake caliper grease for
lubricating the locating pins and spots where the edge of the brake
pad backing plate comes in contact with the caliper bracket.
Also, please note the the OEM pads appear to be ceramic and that ceramic pads are recommended
for replacements.
List of recommended items to have on hand:
- Replacement brake pads.
- T40 torx bit.
- Silicon grease or disk brake caliper grease. (Petroleum based greases should not be used.)
- Large c-clamp or caliper piston tool to retract the caliper piston.
- Turkey baster or large syringe in the event that the brake fluid
reservoir gets too full when retracting the caliper piston.
- Pliers for the retaining springs on the outer pads.
- Large flat bladed screw driver. Same reason as the pliers.
Tune Up | Front Brakes
I'm still working on it. You can E-mail
any suggestions you may have to me.