To the experienced saw buyer much that follows will be familiar, but many who handle saws perfectly, trust to luck in buying
The first important step is to select a good make. Henry Disston said: "If you want a Saw it is best to get one with a name on it which has a reputation. A man who has made a reputation for his goods knows its value, as well as its cost, and will maintain it." Without expert technical knowledge, this is your best guide to a satisfactory purchase. "Disston" on a saw is a guarantee of quality.
Next, see that your saw "Hangs" right. Hold it in the position for working; see that the handle is smooth and fits the hand. These features are essential to comfort and service. The handle should be symmetrical, with perfect lines, and of well-seasoned wood. An unseasoned handle is likely to crack or warp, throwing the saw out of alignment. The handle wood of "Disston" saws is seasoned three years before use.
After the handle, examine the blade. The thinnest saw that will stand up to the work is the easiest to drive, and the narrower, the less friction. A properly ground saw has uniform thickness on the cutting edge, tapering thinner toward the' back and also from handle to the point, leaving the blade thickest at the handle where the brunt of the thrust is felt. See that the saw is well set and sharpened, with a crowning breast.
Then make an actual cut. Henry Disston used to say "We should invariably make a cut before purchasing a saw, even if we had to carry a board to the hardware store."
The saw that is easily fitted and set is easily dulled, and requires frequent fitting up-a waste of labor and steel. A saw should be reasonably hard This, of course demands careful setting. Disston Saws are set on a "stake" or small anvil, with a setting hammer-testing them severely-and subsequent setting, if properly done will not injure these saws.
A well-ground saw requires little set if kept well sharpened. The set should be confined to the points of teeth and never extend below the middle of the tooth. Setting below the gullet distorts and strains the blade, eventually to the breaking point, in a full-tempered, Crucible Steel saw.
A saw can be set correctly by the hammer and stake method only after long experience. However, we manufacture two Saw Sets---the "Triumph"' and the "Monarch"-with which any mechanic can set accurately all kinds of Hand Saws, Web Saws, Wood Saws, Back Saws, Band Saws and small Circular Saws. These Saw Sets are unequaled for their simplicity, and, properly used, are guaranteed to do the intended work. This guarantee includes return at our expense and refund of purchase price. That these Saw Sets are amply filling the need of tools which could be used by anyone without injury to the saw, is fully evidenced in their constantly increasing sales.
Another invaluable aid in keeping saws in perfect condition is our D3 Filing Guide and Clamp (see page 31)-permitting of more accurate work and in less time than by hand alone.
Best results can be secured only when a saw is toothed and filed for the particular class work in which it is used. Years of experience and experiment have determined the shape, space, angle and bevel of teeth, set, etc., most suitable for different classes of sawing in various materials (soft wood, hard wood, metals, etc.). Only by confining a saw to its intended work can its efficiency be retained.
When you have selected your saw, study the shape, angle and bevel of teeth, as well as the set, as a guide in fitting up.