Packard Shutters - Part 1
More Information Than You Can Shake A Cable Release At
I originally wrote this as a response to the question "In reality, how hard is a Packard shutter to install?" posted on the Large Format Photography Forum. After reading my long answers, I felt it should have a place on my web page. I've taken the liberty of fixing a few typos. I hope this may be of some help. I'll eventually update this page with a lot of pictures.
Front Mounting a Packard Ideal Shutter:
There are a couple of different types of Packard's out there. The most basic model is the #5 which has only one setting - squeeze the bulb to open, release to close. Long time exposures can be made more comfortable if you squeeze the bulb for open, release your thumb (covering the air hole in the end of the bulb)..... long exposure time over, squeeze bulb with thumb off hole, release bulb with thumb over hole. Pretty dang simple and only 4 moving parts - 3 shutter blades and an air piston.
The #6 shutter adds an extra part inside which allows for an "instant" exposure of about 1/25th sec, depending on the shutter size and how the bulb is used. The "instant" speed is accomplished by inserting a pin in the shutter which trips a bar inside the shutter mechanism that completes the open/close cycle in one movement of the air piston. I should mention that Packard's are also available with electric solenoids instead of air pistons, but the operation is the same.
Another option is a the addition of flash sync (X), usually only found on a #6 type shutter. It is simply a micro-switch that is activated by the shutter blades and terminated in simple screw terminals on the top of the shutter housing. It is possible to add flash sync to a non-synch Packard using parts found at your local electronics supply house or even Radio Shack.
As for installation...
I'm not a big fan of putting holes in cameras unless there is no other choice, therefore most of my Packard shutters are front-mounted - one on a 305mm f/9 Apo-Nikkor, one on a 9" f/5.6 Ilex Copy Paragon, and one on a 210mm f/5.6 Wollensak Copy Raptar. I made a special box lens board to mount my 14" f/9 Red Dot Artar in front of a Packard for use with my 5X7 Eastman #2 View. My 305 Nikkor and 9" Paragon are used with Toyo monorail cameras and my 210 Raptar is used on a 5X7 B&J with a sliding split back.
Here's how I make a front mount:
First, make sure that you have an appropriate size shutter, i.e., don't use a shutter with a 2" opening if the diameter of the front lens is 3". I use shutters that have openings just larger, but as close to the size of the diameter of the front filter size as possible. On a related note, while it won't hurt to use a larger shutter, I don't recommend using a shutter with a 4" opening on a lens that's 3" in diameter. Get as close as possible. I go larger IF I plan on front mounting filters and want to be able to access the filter threads on the front of the lens.
Next, on 1/2" plywood, use a compass and draw a circle the same size as the outside diameter of the front of the lens barrel. 5 ply Birch from the hobby store is great for this, though you may need to use 2 layers of 1/4". If that is the case, laminate them using contact cement before doing any marking or cutting. Using the same center point, draw another circle about 3/4" to 1" larger diameter, just make sure your second circle is at least 3/4" larger than the opening of the shutter. Use a scroll saw, coping saw, or whatever you have available to cut the circle out. This will form the basis of the lens mount.
Using 1/4" Birch plywood (once again, from the hobby store), make a blank square the same size as your shutter. Mark the center of the square and use your compass to draw a circle just larger than the size of your shutter opening. Cut out the circle from the center of the square. Place your shutter (felt side down) on the 1/4" thick square and mark and drill for the mounting holes in the corners and for the trip pin if you're using a #6. Put the shutter aside for a while.
Here's the fun part. Take your 1/2" thick donut that you cut and see if you got the size right by GENTLY pressing the ring over the front of the lens barrel. If it's too tight, you'll know it - if it's too loose, you'll know that as well. You want it to be just snug enough that it won't fall off with the weight of the shutter on it, but not so snug that it'll scratch the heck out of the barrel. Use fine sandpaper to get the inside cut nice and smooth. If you go too far, you can glue some felt from the craft store on the inside surface to make up the difference. Come to think of it, GO too far and get some felt in there! I don't want to be blamed for people scratching their Artar's! Don't glue the felt in yet, you'll be painting the wood parts first.
Once you have the correct inside diameter, use some yellow woodworkers glue to attach the ring to the 1/4" thick plate that you made for the shutter. You may want to use some small (#4) wood screws from the 1/4" plywood side or short brads to help secure the square to the circle. Needless to say, center everything! (sheesh!)
Once the glue has dried, I sand the whole shebang with 150 grit sandpaper and use some flat black spray paint (Krylon is good) as a finish. All that's left is to mount the shutter with small machine screws, washers, and nuts (I use 4-40 size) and add the felt that will protect the front lens barrel.
Voila! Couldn't be easier and you haven't drilled holes in your camera.
Packard Ideal Shutters are available from:
Professional Photography Products, Inc.
117 Vine Street
Hammonton, NJ 08037Tel: (609) 561-6961
Fax: (609) 561-3298E-Mail: sales@hubphoto.com