This page is provide to supply additional detail about the construction
of the buggy for those who wish to build their own.
If you cannot use this and would like a hard copy send me a self addressed stamped envelope to:
Digital Fidelity
c/o Gene Matocha - Buggy Plans
5609 Cordell Ln
Austin, TX 78723
A regular envelope will do - it's only three 8.5x11 sheets. These plans show only the dimensions and angles of the frame, fork and axle. Explicit construction instructions are not included. Patterns for the seat and bag are also not included. Between the plans and the detail images shown below, any mechanically competent person will be able to build a functioning buggy.
NOTE! Some recent additions are not shown on these plans, but they are
pretty simple to implement - see the frame/axel picture below.
The wheels I used are 16" Black, and were $14.50 each. The bearings which work on 5/8 axles are listed as 35x16x11mm Precision, and were $2.10 ea.
Tubing:
Dillsburg Aeroplane Works
114 Sawmill Rd.
Dillsburg PA 17019
717-432-4589
Prices for the CM 7/8x.058 tubing is around $2.25/foot, but varies on the length and quantity.
Other cool stuff:
Kart World (Go cart parts - a good source of other wheels!)
Order Line: 1-440-357-5569
Order a catalog for $3.00 - it is well worth it.
This
is the latest change to allow frame height adjustment on different surfaces.
By sliding the frame up or down you can adjust for sand, bumpy grass, grass,
concrete, or LAKE BEDS! One drawback though - those long extensions can
poke you when the frame is high. Pad them. NOTE! This mod is not listed
on the plans - extend the tube at the rear of the frame a few inches and
braze the "binding" tube to the side of the axle like an + instead of onto
it like a T.
Individual pieces of the rear axle. Note that the largest tube where the
frame attaches is 1". A 7/8" tube sleeves into it for adjust ability, and
a 3/4" tube is brazed into the end of that so the 5/8" axle can sleeve
in.
This is a detail of how I chose to make the fork/axel attachment. Instead
of flattening and slotting the fork, I cut a hole through it and brazed
in a 3/4 tube which the axle passes through. The result is a "solid" look
to the end of the axle. The disadvantage is it was time consuming and a
little heavier.
This is how the seat attaches to the frame. The seat itself is made from
two layers of 1000 Denier Nylon. First, I made a template that wrapped
around my butt. Then I made two identical nylon seat halfs - top and bottom.
In between the two are flexible plastic sheets which give the seat shape
when no one is in it. I literally cut the sheets from a small plastic garbage
can, and heated it with a blow torch (heat gun would be preferable) to
give them the proper shape. The webbing straps shown here were then sewn
to the bottom seat half. The neoprene padding and perimeter webbing were
sewn to the top half. Then the halfs were sewn together with the plastic
sheets between.
You guys are on your own for the bag...but after making the buggy and
seat, it should be a cinch!
Good luck! And please let me know how it goes.