MATCHING
AND PATCHING BRICKS AND MORTAR
The Office recently completed repairs to a turn-of-the-century
brick concert hall that involved matching existing brick and mortar.
That seemingly simple task is actually more difficult than it first
appears, because the match involves both different times and places.
The source of the clay from which the brick is made can make a
great difference in the appearance of the finished product. Different
pits yield different clays that fire into brick of differing appearances;
even different parts of the same pit can yield variations in color
and texture.
The older the brick to be matched, the more localized the pit
from which its clay was dug is likely to have been. Particularly
in the eighteenth century, the clay for chimney bricks was often
dug from an on-site claybank. Many old clay pits have been consumed.
Even where they haven't been, modern production requires a larger
scale of operations, which means that relatively large pits are
used. Matching the exact composition of a clay is therefore unlikely.
Not only is the composition of the clay difficult to match, so
is the process of firing it. Brick has been made by firing clay
biscuits ever since ancient times, but the size, construction, and
arrangement of brick kilns; how long they are burned; and what fuel
is used--charcoal, wood, coal, oil, gas, or combinations--all affect
the ultimate surface color and appearance of the finished brick.
Taken together, these factors mean that getting an acceptable brick
match can be a time-consuming, exhaustive procedure involving more
than a little luck. Even then, one commonly has to settle for a
near miss. Weathering and aging will help to blend the new and old
brick over time, but it will always be possible to distinguish between
them.
The mortar between the bricks is almost as important to the appearance
of a brick wall as the bricks themselves. Since mortar is a site-mixed
product, rather than a manufactured one, it seems logical that it
should be possible to obtain a very close match to an existing mortar.
Mortar has three principal components: cement, lime, and sand.
Cement and lime colors can be matched fairly accurately without
too much trouble. The sand is the most difficult component to match,
but even here it is usually possible to come quite close (It is
also possible to add pigment to the mortar to help color it. This
approach is secondary to getting the sand color right, however,
since as the mortar weathers, cement and lime will be worn off the
face of the joint, exposing the sand granules).
But, there is a more fundamental, and vexing, problem: What mortar
color do you match? Customarily, mortar is matched to a clean sample
of mortar taken from inside the wall (not as difficult as it may
at first sound). The reason for this is that the exposed mortar
surface, being rough and somewhat porous, picks up dirt over time
and changes color, sometimes quite dramatically.
This still leaves us with the question: "Do we try to match the
mortar as it actually is, knowing that it will not match the exposed
mortar until it has been in place to age and discolor for a decade
or so, or do we match the surface appearance of the exposed mortar,
knowing that our new work will change and discolor, leading in time
to a mismatch?"
This is not a question that can be answered once for all, although
normally we try to match the true color of the mortar (or an intermediate
compromise). When repointing the entire wall is appropriate, that
can solve the problem nicely, since all the mortar will look the
same. In any event, only rarely do we try to match exactly the discolored
surface of the existing mortar, if only because we know that the
match will surely be lost as the new mortar ages.
Technical assistance for this article was provided by Preservation
Technology Associates, Inc.
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"BURNING
OFF" OLD PAINT
Fire recently destroyed a lovely old wooden church
not far from here. As I write this, it's not known for certain
what caused the fire, but the building was being renovated, and
the contractor was removing exterior paint with heat guns.
Heat guns are probably the most effective method
of removing heavily-built-up paint, quickly softening the material
so it can be scraped off easily. Unfortunately, however, heat
guns can also ignite the tinder-dry detritus that is frequently
found inside the walls of old buildings.
In order to reduce the risk of fire, it is essential
to maintain a fire watch, continually checking the building for
possible combustion, and being prepared to take immediate action.
The watch should preferably be maintained around the clock.
Concealed fires are particularly a concern in buildings
like churches, where there is often a space of a foot or more
between the exterior and interior walls, in which a blaze can
become well-established before leaping out to consume the building.
The same thing can happen, however, in the smaller spaces within
the walls of a dwelling house.
Although I might consider using heat guns to remove
heavily built-up paint from my own house, the Office tries to
avoid speficying heat guns or heat plates as means of removing
paint from our clients' buildings. It is not a risk we are comfortable
assuming for them.
An excellent short reference on paint removal
methods is Preserving Your Old House: Stripping Exterior
Paint, published several years ago by the Society
for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, 141 Cambridge
Street, Boston, MA 02114, from whom we believe it still may be
available.
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