DRIPPY
BUSINES
We are
often asked whether it is possible to humidify an old building
during cold weather to prevent the dryness that otherwise occurs
in comfort-heated buildings. Although the theoretical answer is
"yes," any attempt to maintain a significantly elevated relative
humidity in an old building in winter carries with it such a risk
of condensation damage to the building that the practical answer
must be "no." The explanation for this apparent contradiction
lies in the capacity of air to hold moisture. Warm air can hold
more water vapor than cold--a lot more.
When
we say, "humidity," we usually mean relative humidity.
Relative humidity is a measure of how much water vapor (moisture)
is contained in a given quantity of air at a particular temperature,
compared to the maximum that it can hold. In other words, a relative
humidity of 50% means that the air contains half as much moisture
as it can possibly hold at that temperature.
Warm
air can hold more moisture than cool. This means that as the temperature
of the air rises, the relative humidity will drop (so long as
no more moisture is added).
Our problem,
though, begins when the temperature of the air drops. Even
if no water vapor is added, the relative humidity will
rise. If the temperature drops sufficiently, it will reach saturation,
or 100%. At this point the air contains as much moisture it can.
If the temperature continues to drop, some of this water vapor
will have to be gotten rid of.
The process
by which water vapor leaves the air is condensation. Water vapor
becomes liquid water. When this happens outdoors, we get fog or
precipitation. When it happens in a building, things get wet that
shouldn't, wood rots, metal corrodes, and we have problems.

This
mechanism can be pictured on a chart like the one above. The vertical
lines represent temperature in degrees, Fahrenheit, the horizontal
lines show absolute quantities of water vapor in the air, and
the curved lines indicate relative humidity. The important thing
to notice is how the relative-humidity lines get steeper from
left to right (as the temperature goes up). The warmer the air
gets, the more moisture it can hold, and that moisture capacity
rises faster than the temperature.
This
begins to explain why it's nearly impossible to keep the interiors
of heated buildings from drying out in winter. If the outdoor
air temperature is 30 degrees F and the relative humidity is 50%,
there is only sufficient moisture in the air to produce about
15% relative humidity once it is warmed to 65 degrees. Adding
moisture to the indoor air will raise the relative humidity and
reduce drying, but the temperature at which condensation occurs
also will rise, increasing the probability that condensation will
occur inside the building.
New buildings
can be designed to accommodate elevated relative humidities without
damage, but it is simply not practical to maintain the relative
humidity inside a heated old building high enough during cold
weather to prevent dryness without risking serious damage to the
structure.
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A
MUSEUM DILEMMA
The conventional
wisdom holds that in order to safeguard the collections it houses,
the interior environment in a museum should be maintained at about
70 degrees F, and about 50% relative humidity, year-round, with
only small fluctuations allowed. For most house museums, this
is an impossible standard--Quite apart from the expense of installing,
operating, and maintaining a climate-control system that can meet
these criteria, these conditions will cause condensation during
cold weather that will quickly destroy the building.
During
the past decade or so, conservation scientists have begun to question
this "standard," which turns out not to be based on experimental
knowledge. Perhaps surprisingly, temperature variation appears
to have less effect on objects than do changes in relative humidity,
although excessively high temperatures and freezing can both be
harmful.
To no
one's astonishment, different materials turn out to be affected
differently by fluctuations in humidity. Oil paintings, for instance,
become brittle and paint can crack and flake off at low humidities,
while paper molds and cockles at high humidities.
Sensitivity
to humidity variations differs according to many factors. For
instance, painted or varnished wooden chests may respond to relative
humidity change in a matter of days when they are open, in weeks
when closed tight, but only in months when they are kept closed
and full of textiles, which act as humidity buffers.
Recent
work at the Canadian Conservation Institute suggests that a variation
in relative humidity of about ten percent above and below a central
level of 45% to 55% presents a low risk of mechanical damage for
almost all organic objects acclimated to mid-range humidity. The
risk gradually rises, until at variation of about forty percent
above or below the middle range, conditions will be destructive
to most organic objects, if maintained long enough for the object
to react.
An interesting
result of some of these discoveries is the careful use of heat--controlled
by humidistats, rather than thermostats--to modulate the indoor
relative humidity rise that accompanies the arrival of cold weather.
Since personal comfort is not the goal, actual indoor temperatures
can fall quite low, making this, therefore, a problematic approach
for a building that is to be occupied during cold seasons.
For buildings
that receive occasional cold-weather use, the most conservative
approach appears to be to make the heated periods as short as
possible, to minimize the time that objects have to respond to
the changing humidity.
Vol.
XXVIII No. 3 of the APT Bulletin is devoted to the topic
of museums in historic buildings, and contains excellent and well-documented
summary of the history and current state of museum environmental
thinking. APT/ Box 3511/ Williamsburg/ VA 23187.
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WHAT
IS YOUR MUSEUM'S COMPETITION?
Many
history museum organiza tions act as though they believed that
their competition was the next museum up the road, or if they're
thinking on a larger scale, Old Sturbridge Village, Historic Deerfield,
or even Colonial Williamsburg. A friend of mine recently made
a remark that makes me think that they're mistaken--he had just
returned from a trip that included Williamsburg. "They do it better,"
he said, "in Orlando."
This
comment points up an important fact: History museums compete for
people's leisure time. This means that they are competing against
the New England Patriots, Loon Mountain Ski Area, the beach, television,
the Appalachian Trail, the Internet, and yes, Disney World, too.
Closely
related to the question of why any one should visit your museum
is the question, why should anyone support your museum financially?
To ask this is not to put your museum down; rather it is the first
step in focusing your museum and making it a more important part
of its community. What about your museum makes it important? Why
should some one visit your museum rather than go for a boat ride
or watch a ballgame? Why should someone support it instead of
any of a hundred other utterly deserving causes?
These
are hard questions. Thinking about them can lead your museum into
new and worthwhile paths.
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WHAT'S
ALL THIS MUSEUM STUFF, ANYWAY?
I have
written a fair amount on museum-related topics. Readers who are
not involved with history museums might wonder what is the big
deal. Museum-oriented preservation architecture can't be all that
different from the "real world," can it? I think it is:
In museum
work, the place of the needs and taste of the users of an occupied
building is taken by concerns for preserving the physical object
(curatorial) and using it to tell a story (interpretation). Research
and literal accuracy assume great importance. In order to work
responsibly on buildings in curatorial hands it is important to
find out as much as we can of their past, and to understand not
only their architectural form and style, but also the social and
technological contexts that gave rise to them.
"Restoration,"
after all, means the process of returning a building to its known
former appearance.
History
museums are stewards of objects from the past on behalf of the
present and the future. This fact explains the great concern with
preservation of historical fabric: The building that is there
right now is as real as it's going to get. What we do, no matter
how skillfully we do it or how desperately the work is needed,
will remove bits of the historical artifact and replace them with
new work, gradually altering and eroding the building's integrity.
A building
in curatorial hands has no "real" 24-hour-per-day user. No one
lives in museum space; its purpose is different. Mundane things
that are essential to a building that is actually used--a comfortable
heating system, functioning kitchens and bathrooms, and light
fixtures and convenience outlets--may not be needed, or may even
be harmful to a museum structure and its contents.
Building
codes frequently recognize the special nature of museums' buildings
by allowing the use of construction techniques and materials that
are prohibited elsewhere. Most notable is the Massachusetts State
Building Code's Totally Preserved Building category, which allows
to the owners of buildings specifically listed in the Code great
latitude in preserving their structures' fabric.
All in
all, museums are a different world. I believe that by working
with museums I become more informed and knowledgeable about all
old buildings and broaden my understanding of architectural preservation
, and so can better serve all my clients, whether curatorial organizations,
institutions, or private individuals.
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