Article 13139 of rec.autos.vw: Relay-Version: EDS Unigraphics News Server 14/03/90 VAX/VMS V5.5; site ug.eds.com Path: ug!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!wdc!mark Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: Help with seatbelts, please.. Message-ID: <1993Apr19.235640.1207@newsgate.sps.mot.com> From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1993 23:56:40 GMT Sender: mark@wdc (Mark Shaw) References: <1993Apr17.025418.20930@ksgbbs.harvard.edu> Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona Keywords: golf, seatbelts Nntp-Posting-Host: 223.199.55.11 Lines: 63 In article (Scott Munsey Lab Staff Asst. 5-8271) writes: |> My significant other just purchased an '89 Golf (apparently born in |> PA. according to the VIN prefix) that has those unspeakable |> passive belts. We've been told that it isn't possible to swap |> them out for standard inertial reel lap-and-shoulder belts, but |> it's hard to believe given the covered hole on the side post |> where they would attach. I had prepared the following for posting. Now is as good a time as any.... For those who cannot stand those two-point passive belts used in the later model VW cars, there is a way to convert them to the normal 3-point lap-shoulder harness with inertia reels. This can be done quite reasonably by ordering most of the important parts from your VW dealer and getting some of the miscellaneous hardware at a junk yard. A friend made ths conversion on his '89 Jetta for about $160. You can probably get all the required parts at a junk yard, but then you run the risk of getting either old and possibly deteriorated belts or ones that have been over stressed in an accident. Few if any new VW's came with the 3-point harnesses after about 1986. The major parts that you should buy new are as follows: (2) 167-857-705-01C Belts with pillar slide ring and inertia reel. (1) 165-857-756 Stirrup, which is the bracket that mounts on the side of the driver's seat. (1) 165-857-755 Stirrup, which is the bracket that mounts on the side of the passenenger's seat. The rest of the required bolts, washers, spacers, and covers can be obtained by ordering, as well; but they are also easier to find a the junk yard. In either case it would be a good idea to get a copy of the dealer's microfiche showing what you need. Or you can refer to the drawings in the Bentley Manual for '85 and up Golf/Jetta. An interesting note is that VW continues with their attention to reduced component count by using the same belt assembly on both sides. It is also interesting to see the same mounting on both Golf and Jetta. There is some difference with the later model Scirocco however. Also the small plastic covers that go over the pillar swivel mount will vary with years. The above belts require the larger kind that snap over the sides of the swivel (not the one that fits around the mounting bolt). My friend was pleased with the conversion and feels a little safer using a full 3-point belt. The only drawback he noted was that the bracket mounted on the door for the old 2-point belt must be removed as it points out sharply. When you remove it the doorseal gasket will stay deformed to match the removed bracket and causes added wind noise. I suppose there may be some creative solution to that, but I haven't looked at it closely. Another consideration would be to keep the original belts and hardware and convert the car back to factory spec when selling it. Otherwise, the new owner may not use your better belts and come after you later for changing them. If they want the newer style, let them install them. My personal experience has been favorable in making the conversion. I converted a '79 Rabbit with the same 2-point system. The newer 3-point harness clearly helped save my son's life when he had an accident in 1991. IMHO the new passive restraint laws are giving those who normally use belts a less effective solution. Mark Article 18681 of rec.autos.vw: Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Path: lynx.unm.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!sdd.hp.com!spool.mu.edu!agate!doc.ic.ac.uk!pipex!uunet!noc.near.net!nic.umass.edu!umassd.edu!SMUCS1.UMASSD.EDU!RGOLEN From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU Subject: Re: [W] 3 point rear seatbelts in older Golf? Message-ID: Sender: usenet@umassd.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA. References: Distribution: usa Date: Mon, 9 Aug 1993 18:14:05 GMT Lines: 39 In article , rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ronald.j.deblock..jr) writes: >My son has outgrown his car seat. I have a 1986 Golf, which has only >two point seatbelts in the rear. Newer Golfs (starting in 1990, I think) >have three point seatbelts. I would like to put three point belts in my >Golf. > >Does anyone know if this is possible? I'm not even sure where to look >to see if the additional mount point is there. I would appreciate it if >someone with a newer Golf could tell me where the shoulder belt mount >point is. > >Thanks in advance! The mount for the three point rear seat belts is in the trunk, welded to the top of the rear wheel arch. The belt then goes through the speaker shelf, which is different in the later Golfs. However, I have done this on my 86 and it works. Here's what you do. Get the front belts from an 86 or so Golf. Next take off the plastic panels behind the rear quater windows. You will notice a mounting point. Drill out the plastic panel to expose the mounting point. Put the panel back. Next remove the rear belt spool. Take the "A" pilar mount (the one the belt slides through) and mount that to the hole behind the rear quarter window. Take the end of the seat belt and place it behind the spool. Put your mounting bolt through the backing plate of the spool and thru the end of the seat belt. Bolt this up to where the rear-seat spool should be. Voila...instant three point belt. Ric > > >-- >Ron DeBlock rdb1@homxb.att.com (that's a number 1 in rdb1, not letter l) >AT&T Bell Labs Somerset, NJ USA Article 18703 of rec.autos.vw: Path: lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!news-feed-2.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!wupost!csus.edu!netcom.com!netcomsv!matrix!jay.mitchell From: jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell) Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: [W] 3 point rear seatbelts in older Golf? Message-ID: <523.3861.uupcb@the-matrix.com> Date: 9 Aug 93 12:26:00 GMT Distribution: world Organization: The MATRIX BBS - Birmingham, AL - 205-323-2016 Reply-To: jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell) References: Lines: 8 Retrofit of 3 point harnesses in the rear seats of VWs is easily accomplished in any A2 (Golf post-85) car. The necessary mounting points are present. You simply need to remove the C-pillar plastic trim, mark the part in the appropriate place, and drill a hole so that the required bolt may be inserted through the trim piece. I have done precisely this to install a rallye harness in my '86 GTI, and it takes only a very few minutes. Good luck.... Article 18731 of rec.autos.vw: Path: lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!concert!rutgers!sgigate!sgiblab!wrdis01!wrdis02.robins.af.mil!thogard From: thogard@robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard;653 CCSG/SCDI) Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: [W] 3 point rear seatbelts in older Golf? Message-ID: <24923u$k03@wrdis02.robins.af.mil> Date: 10 Aug 93 20:57:34 GMT References: Distribution: usa Organization: Robins AFB, GA Lines: 40 NNTP-Posting-Host: wrdis01.robins.af.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] rgolen@UMASSD.EDU wrote: : In article , rdb1@cbnewsj.cb.att.com (ronald.j.deblock..jr) writes: : >My son has outgrown his car seat. I have a 1986 Golf, which has only : >two point seatbelts in the rear. Newer Golfs (starting in 1990, I think) : >have three point seatbelts. I would like to put three point belts in my : >Golf. The retrofit is easy but I suggest buying a trim peice with the hole in it. It will look better. There are two types of three-point belts. Adjustable and non-adjustable. If any driver is shorter than about 5'6" you need the adjustable ones. You must get the right seat belt retractors for the position thay are going to be mounted in! There are slight differences in them even though they look the same. There is a small ball that sits in a cup and when it gets shoved around it locks up the retractor. If you mount the cup wrong it will not work when you need it to even though it will lock up when you grab the belt. Also do not buy a belt that was being worn when the car was hit head-on. Seat belts are supposed to be replaced after they are subjected to extream stress. Your sholder belt should be attched at sholder level (not higher like on all 92+ cars with the killer belts) and should not cross the your neck. -tim : >Does anyone know if this is possible? I'm not even sure where to look : >to see if the additional mount point is there. I would appreciate it if : >someone with a newer Golf could tell me where the shoulder belt mount : >point is. : > : >Thanks in advance! : The mount for the three point rear seat belts is in the trunk, welded to : the top of the rear wheel arch. The belt then goes through the speaker : shelf, which is different in the later Golfs. : However, I have done this on my 86 and it works. Here's what you do. : Get the front belts from an 86 or so Golf. Next take off the plastic Dont do this --------^ get the proper rear belts! : Ric Article 19741 of rec.autos.vw: Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Path: lynx.unm.edu!mimbres.cs.unm.edu!saimiri.primate.wisc.edu!ames!elroy.jpl.nasa.gov!swrinde!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!spsgate!mogate!newsgate!wdc!mark From: mark@wdcwdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw) Subject: Re: '89 so-called safety belts Message-ID: <1993Sep7.201921.1014@newsgate.sps.mot.com> Keywords: seat belts, golf, 89, 1989 Sender: mark@wdc (Mark Shaw) Nntp-Posting-Host: margay.sps.mot.com Organization: Motorola Western MCU Design Center, Chandler Arizona References: <1993Sep3.233538.24966@boole.uucp> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1993 20:19:21 GMT Lines: 74 In article, (Brad Schoening) writes: |> This combination of no lap belts and door-anchored shoulder belts |> caused the Center for Auto Safety (a Nader group) to issue a warning |> about this year of Volkswagans and also Hyuandi. Odd, they are largely responsible for us getting these idiotic belts. Maybe we should file a class action suit, ah, but I digress..... |> My question is, has anybody installed after-market lap belts in |> a VW Golf. How easy and successful was it ? I tried sending the following direct, but your email address bounced. So, I 'll send it here. Sorry for the long message to those not interested. ============================= I had prepared the following for posting. Hope it helps.... For those who cannot stand those two-point passive belts used in the later model VW cars, there is a way to convert them to the normal 3-point lap-shoulder harness with inertia reels. This can be done quite reasonably by ordering most of the important parts from your VW dealer and getting some of the miscellaneous hardware at a junk yard. A friend made ths conversion on his '89 Jetta for about $160. You can probably get all the required parts at a junk yard, but then you run the risk of getting either old and possibly deteriorated belts or ones that have been over stressed in an accident. Few if any new VW's came with the 3-point harnesses after about 1986. The major parts that you should buy new are as follows: (2) 167-857-705-01C Belts with pillar slide ring and inertia reel. (1) 165-857-756 Stirrup, which is the bracket that mounts on the side of the driver's seat. (1) 165-857-755 Stirrup, which is the bracket that mounts on the side of the passenenger's seat. The rest of the required bolts, washers, spacers, and covers can be obtained by ordering, as well; but they are also easier to find a the junk yard. In either case it would be a good idea to get a copy of the dealer's microfiche showing what you need. Or you can refer to the drawings in the Bentley Manual for '85 and up Golf/Jetta. An interesting note is that VW continues with their attention to reduced component count by using the same belt assembly on both sides. It is also interesting to see the same mounting on both Golf and Jetta. There is some difference with the later model Scirocco however. Also the small plastic covers that go over the pillar swivel mount will vary with years. The above belts require the larger kind that snap over the sides of the swivel (not the one that fits around the mounting bolt). My friend was pleased with the conversion and feels a little safer using a full 3-point belt. The only drawback he noted was that the bracket mounted on the door for the old 2-point belt must be removed as it points out sharply. When you remove it the doorseal gasket will stay deformed to match the removed bracket and causes added wind noise. I suppose there may be some creative solution to that, but I haven't looked at it closely. Another consideration would be to keep the original belts and hardware and convert the car back to factory spec when selling it. Otherwise, the new owner may not use your better belts and come after you later for changing them. If they want the newer style, let them install them. My personal experience has been favorable in making the conversion. I converted a '79 Rabbit with the same 2-point system. The newer 3-point harness clearly helped save my son's life when he had an accident in 1991. IMHO the new passive restraint laws are giving those who normally use belts a less effective solution. Mark Article 19779 of rec.autos.vw: Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Path: lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!caen!nic.umass.edu!umassd.edu!MDCS.UMASSD.EDU!RGOLEN From: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU Subject: Re: 3-point rear belts for '85 GTI (was Re: '89 so-called safety belts) Message-ID: Sender: usenet@umassd.edu (USENET News System) Reply-To: rgolen@UMASSD.EDU Organization: UMASS DARTMOUTH, NO. DARTMOUTH, MA. References: <1993Sep3.233538.24966@boole.uucp> <1993Sep7.201921.1014@newsgate.sps.mot.com>,<1993Sep7.233558.10863@mdd.comm.mot.com> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1993 13:40:59 GMT Lines: 34 In article <1993Sep7.233558.10863@mdd.comm.mot.com>, rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) writes: > >On the subject of seatbelts, is it possible to replace the two point >rear seatbelts in my '85 GTI with three point belts as in later model >years? Perhaps this should go into the watercooled FAQ. Here's my method for the umpteenump time. First of all the hard way is to get the mounting block which is welded on the top of the rear wheel housing in 88 and later Golfs, and weld it in. You then have to cut a slot in the rear parcel panels, but that is minor. The other option is to get the three point belts from the front of a Rabbit/Golf/Jetta. Remove the rear spools from your Golf. Next take off the C-pilar trim, and you will find a mounting point already there. Drill a hole in the trim to expose the hole. Put the trim back. Next take your front belt set and mount the pivot on the C pilar. Take the end of the belt, place it behind your spool, put the bolt thru the spool and the end of the belt (you may need a longer bolt), and bolt that into where the original rear belt spool mounted. Voila....easy rear three point belts. Ric >-- >////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// >Doug Rudoff Motorola, Seattle rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com >\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ Article 20074 of rec.autos.vw: Path: lynx.unm.edu!news.cs.indiana.edu!usenet.ucs.indiana.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!uunet!yeshua.marcam.com!wrdis02.robins.af.mil!thogard From: thogard@robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard;653 CCSG/SCDI) Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: 3-point rear belts for '85 GTI (was Re: '89 so-called safety belts) Date: 13 Sep 1993 22:06:12 GMT Organization: Robins AFB, GA Lines: 47 Message-ID: <272qsk$mbk@wrdis02.robins.af.mil> References: <1993Sep3.233538.24966@boole.uucp> <1993Sep7.201921.1014@newsgate.sps.mot.com>,<1993Sep7.233558.10863@mdd.comm.mot.com> NNTP-Posting-Host: wrdis01.robins.af.mil X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL0] A note about seatbelts. If you replace a belt (or add a new one) the retractor MUST be the correct type for the postition were you are installing it. If you put the wrong one in, you could kill someone. In side the retractors is a metal ball in a plastic cup that is designed to move when it encounters excessive G forces. Those cups are are angles so that when the car gets hit from the front, the belts will lock up. If you put the retractor in some other position than what it was designed for it may not work when you need it to. You will alos not want belts from cars that have the front end all messed up unless you are sure that it will work correctly. -tim rgolen@UMASSD.EDU wrote: : In article <1993Sep7.233558.10863@mdd.comm.mot.com>, rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com (Doug Rudoff) writes: : > : >On the subject of seatbelts, is it possible to replace the two point : >rear seatbelts in my '85 GTI with three point belts as in later model : >years? : Perhaps this should go into the watercooled FAQ. Here's my method : for the umpteenump time. First of all the hard way is to get the : mounting block which is welded on the top of the rear wheel housing : in 88 and later Golfs, and weld it in. You then have to cut a slot : in the rear parcel panels, but that is minor. : The other option is to get the three point belts from the front of : a Rabbit/Golf/Jetta. Remove the rear spools from your Golf. Next : take off the C-pilar trim, and you will find a mounting point : already there. Drill a hole in the trim to expose the hole. Put : the trim back. : Next take your front belt set and mount the pivot on the C pilar. : Take the end of the belt, place it behind your spool, put : the bolt thru the spool and the end of the belt (you may need a : longer bolt), and bolt that into where the original rear : belt spool mounted. Voila....easy rear three point belts. : Ric : >-- : >////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// : >Doug Rudoff Motorola, Seattle rudoff@mdd.comm.mot.com : >\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ From eafg034@ea.oac.uci.edu Wed Jan 25 09:17 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA07307; Wed, 25 Jan 1995 09:17:05 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from taurus.oac.uci.edu by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HM9B4HEACW00DHLD@UG.EDS.COM>; Wed, 25 Jan 1995 09:14:45 -0700 (PDT) Received: by taurus.oac.uci.edu id AA13379 (5.65c/IDA-1.4.4 for jan@ug.eds.com) ; Wed, 25 Jan 1995 09:00:58 -0800 Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 09:00:57 -0800 (PST) From: Deanna Westra Subject: Re: Real seatbelts in Corrado (fwd) To: jan@UG.EDS.COM Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 13:11:36 -0500 (EST) From: Guy Allen Subject: Re: Real seatbelts in Corrado (fwd) > > From: Peter Henriksen > Subject: Real seatbelts in Corrado > > Hi all, > > has anybody here ever succeeded in replacing the automatic mouse belts > in the US spec Corrado with real 3-point belts or with some sort of harness? > > Thanks for any info you can give. > - peter, peterhe@microsoft.com > I'm currently in the middle of a project to fit Canadian OEM inertial reel seat belts (Canadian) to my US spec slc. All US Corrados came with motorized belts, which I think are less comfortable, and less safe than the inertial belts (since I always wear the belts). The unit body is the same for all Corrados, regardless of what market they are sold in, so all the parts pretty much bolt right up. The most difficult aspect is having to remove most of the interior, including: A and B pillar trim footwell kick panel door sill trim rear seat arm rest panel center console around hand brake (not the gear shift, or forward of that) both forward seats most of rear seats (this may be optional, but I found it easier to avoid munging up the rear arm rest panels this way) Volkswagen is pretty good about making all these pieces removeable by mere mortals, the screws are obvious and the trim clips are replaceable if they get screwed up. It is necessary to drill/cut a hole in the carpet, I used a 3/4 inch hole saw. Everything else bolts into existing threaded holes in the body. I'm very pleased with the result, which looks like the factory intended (not suprising), and my wife doesn't yell at me because the motorized assembly hit her in the head anymore! I got the parts from Ron's Parts, a canadian purveyor of VW parts both new and used. Got his number from european car: (604)944-0494 Tell Ron that Guy sent you :-) There may be other sources for these parts, but I didn't look around much. It did take a couple of iterations to get all the parts, (I'm still waiting for inboard seat latches, and the appropriate relays to make the seat belt warning light go off) but on the whole they've been cordial and helpfull. Ron sold me all the parts you *need* for $175US, plus shipping. A and B pillar trim seat belt, reel assembly nuts, bolts, nick-nacks relay(s?) I also got different inboard seat latches for $150US the pair. These aren't essential, because the new belt will fit into the existing inboard latch, but the correct latch is lower and farther rearward (safer and more comfortable, I believe). It also does not have the extra belt and reel which used to go to the motorized latch, so it looks much more sanitary without it. The replacement inboard seat latches are much harder to get, though. They are attached to the seat, which is a high-demand item in the auto salvage business. Seat belt parts are not high failure items, so there is a relative surplus of them. I had to wait a couple of months for Ron to find a set of seat latches he could part with. On the whole I thought the result was well worth the effort. It's also cool to see the reaction of the folks at the local dealership when they realize that they've never seen a Corrado with simple intertial reels. The installation really does look much cleaner and simpler than the motorized version. Let me know if anybody wants (even more) details. Oh, yeah, the ususal disclaimers apply: I am a satisfied customer of Ron's Parts, nothing more. I am not suggesting that you should modify your car (especially safety equipment like seat belts!). Do anything like this at your own risk. This is my into this mailing list. Looks real helpfull so far! How many people are on it? guy guy.allen@sdrc.com 70 914/6 85s 89gli 93slc An update on Guy's project (Oct 95): _______________________________________________________________________ I'm still not completele finished, but far enough along to get the benefits. I have all the belt hardware installed, and almost all of the trim replaced, all that is left is - I don't have the correct stand-offs for the passenger over-head hand hold - I don't have the center console piece (that the parking brake sticks through). There is a big open section in the US spec part to make room for the lap belt inertial real. It doesn't do anything, its just ugly. - I've still got a couple of squeaks left in some of the interior panels. I've had a couple off more than once after everything else was reassembled to add felt washers and re-seat the little plastic bayonets that hold everything togeter. I've been meaning to call Ron and see into getting these last bits. Maybe I'll finally get around to that now that I've been reminded of this project again! I've probably got about 8 or 10 hours invested at this point. The new belts really are much more comfortable. I'm glad I did it. ______________________________________________________________________ Let me know if you have any other questions, and if you decide to do the conversion too. guy From eafg034@ea.oac.uci.edu Mon Jan 30 09:32 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA08989; Mon, 30 Jan 1995 09:32:43 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from taurus.oac.uci.edu by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HMGB6VP8TS00CKZR@UG.EDS.COM>; Mon, 30 Jan 1995 09:32:14 -0700 (PDT) Received: by taurus.oac.uci.edu id AA00542 (5.65c/IDA-1.4.4 for jan@ug.eds.com) ; Mon, 30 Jan 1995 09:15:41 -0800 Date: Mon, 30 Jan 1995 09:15:40 -0800 (PST) From: Deanna Westra Subject: Passive Seat Belt Instructions (fwd) To: jan@UG.EDS.COM Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Date: Thu, 26 Jan 1995 09:57:20 -0500 From: JBratek@aol.com Subject: Passive Seat Belt Instructions More info for a Corrado: ------------------------ This message is from an AOL member named "tv toon", regarding a recent question of converting to passive seat belts. I am not qualified to know if this information if reliable and accurate. Here is a list of the part numbers that will change you over from motorized belts to passive. Please note you may wish to leave some of the trim parts alone, as they are expensive, and are only different in appearance to accomodate the motorized belts. When I note "two req" it means two parts required to complete left and right side conversion. 535 857 705 Three point seat belt left front 535 857 706 Three point seat belt right front 535 857 755B Press button buckle left 535 857 756 Press button buckle right 535 857 791 Belt Guide left (mounts to door post) 535 857 792 Belt Guide right 191 857 819 Adjusting Mech. two req. for shoulder harness N 090 315 1 Combi screw two req for Adjusting Mech. 191 858 727 Rotary Knob (For Adjuster) two req. N 989 103 01 Fitted Bolt (For Shoulder Harness) two req. 165 857 719 01C Cap (For Shoulder Harness) 111 857 799 A Bolt, Hex Head (For belt retractor) two req. The following parts are for mounting the loose end of the belt between the retractor and the door sill 803 019 837 Bolt, Hex Head two req. 535 857 741 Cap, (Covers coiled wire end of belt mount between belt retractor and door sill) two req. 111 857 707 A Washer, (Goes between belt mount end and door sill) two req. -------------------------------------------------------- The following trim pieces require a color code for the parts. It is added AFTER the normal part number sequence (as in the number for the cap listed earlier (165 857 719 01C) Color Codes: 4FB Black 8FH Platinum (gray) 535 867 233 Lining-Pillar A left upper 535 867 234 Lining-Pillar A right upper 535 867 285 Lining-Pillar B left upper 535 867 286 Lining-Pillar B right upper 535 867 400 Cover Strip (covers height adjuster) two req. NOTE! The part numbers above with the suffix letter "A" are for a part used with motorized belts. Make sure that an "A" suffix is not on the part ordered, and check it again when you receive the parts. Dealer parts clerks are automatically biased for ordering the more commonly used parts numbers. Oh Yea, the new 94 Corrado's have the rear spoiler armed and raised at 55 MPH rather than at 45 on the older cars. This makes in town driving easier because if you pass someone and the bloody thing comes up, it won't lower until you slow below 25 MPH and it blocks your rear vision until it lowers. To upgrade to the newer speed, replace the Control Unit for the spoiler (it is the large black relay mounted over the knee pad on the left side marked 535 919 845 B) with the newer part. Just guessing here, but I wouldn't be surprised if the "B" suffix was for the North American version and an "A" is for the EEC version. Those cars had spoilers that deployed at speeds above 75 MPH. The North American speeds were chosen to allow deployment at legal speeds and were not set for aerodynamic reasons. I do not have the part number for the 55 MPH Control Unit yet. If you want to add an extra brake light to the fixture on the hatch, pop out the lamp holder that mounts the back-up lamp, and knock out the plastic covering the hole for the lamp over the unused lamp socket on both the right and left side reflector housings. Run a jumper wire from the CHMSL fixture in a Wye to both lamp sockets. Standard crimp on connectors will fit the side fixtures, and a "Scotchlok" (by 3M) Self-Stripping Electrical Tap connector (Scotchlok # 560) will make the connection to the wires that feed the CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp). Use wire of sufficent guage to carry the current for the lamps you use. You will have to remove the cover that covers the inside of the hatch to gain access to the wireing. Find the plastic screws that are on the lower edge of the cover, and turn them 90 degrees to loosen. The cover removes by pulling the cover away and down from the upper window trim. Article 3936 of rec.autos.vw: Relay-Version: ANU News - V6.1B9 05/16/94 VAX/VMS V1.5; site bbs.ug.eds.com Path: bbs.ug.eds.com!news.cerf.net!usc!howland.reston.ans.net!swrinde!emory!news-feed-1.peachnet.edu!darwin.sura.net!gatekeeper.es.dupont.com!eplrx7!news Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: [W] Source for real seatbelts for my A2 GTI? Message-ID: <1995Apr7.220138.14241@eplrx7.es.duPont.com> From: wardrop@pods04.dnet.dupont.com (Mark A. Wardrop) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 1995 22:01:38 GMT Sender: news@eplrx7.es.duPont.com (News Admin Account) References: <3jhvpm$mim@bigboote.WPI.EDU> <3jo0vs$3so@news.bridge.com> <3ls6fl$5se@sulawesi.lerc.nasa.gov> Organization: DuPont Engineering Physics Laboratory Nntp-Posting-Host: pomaw1.po.dupont.com X-Newsreader: WinVN 0.92.6+ Lines: 36 In article <3ls6fl$5se@sulawesi.lerc.nasa.gov>, Robert.D.Green@lerc.nasa.gov says: > >Tim, > >I'm also interested in replacing my A2 GTI seatbelts with real ones, >and I have an additional question. Is it much trouble to disable the >feature that doesn't allow you to start the car without the shoulder >belt attached to the door? Actually, I'd really like to rewire it to a >hidden switch, and use it as an anti-theft device. Thanks for the >good info, Tim, and thanks, James, for posting the question. > >Bob > I replaced my on the door belts with factory 3-point belts the first week after I bought my new '92 Jetta GLI. I went to the dealer parts dept and looked at the parts diagrams for a '90 Jetta. I then ordered the belts, bolts, washers, and plastic trim pieces as seperate items. This was an expensive route to go, $400, but I wanted to get rid of those on the door belts ASAP and knew I could get all parts this way. It did take alot of close studying of the diagrams to make sure I got all parts needed. In the end, I missed two plastic bolt head caps which I got from a salvage yard. When you remove the belt from the door, you will see two wires going into the unit. Just cutting the wires and connecting them together is all that is required to get around the ignition lockout. You could trace these wires through the door jam to under the dash. Here you could place a switch. One final safety note: I have heard of people getting seatbelts from wrecked cars in salvage yards. This is very unwise nowdays since most people do were seatbelts. Unless you have solid proof that the belts were not worn durring the wreck, DON'T USE SALVAGED BELTS. (I'm sure you know this, but...) Mark Wardrop wardrop@pods04.dnet.dupont.com From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sat Oct 28 04:37 PDT 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA27112; Sat, 28 Oct 1995 04:37:13 -0700 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HWYLQ09GMO001846@UG.EDS.COM>; Sat, 28 Oct 1995 04:33:25 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id MAA00502 for corrado-l-outgoing; Fri, 27 Oct 1995 12:21:59 -0700 Received: from sdrc.com (sdrc.com [146.122.132.195]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id MAA00455 for ; Fri, 27 Oct 1995 12:21:53 -0700 Received: from sgi0 (sgi0.sdrc.com) by sdrc.com (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA23936; Fri, 27 Oct 95 15:21:50 EDT Received: by sgi0 via ESMTP (950511.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH526/920502.SGI) id PAA04838; Fri, 27 Oct 1995 15:21:49 -0400 Received: by sgige92 (950511.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH526/930416.SGI) id TAA12508; Fri, 27 Oct 1995 19:21:49 GMT Date: Fri, 27 Oct 1995 15:21:48 -0500 (EDT) From: guy.allen@sdrc.com (Guy Allen) Subject: Re: automatic seatbelt In-Reply-To: from "Chris Kretovic" at Oct 27, 95 02:48:55 pm Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <199510271921.TAA12508@sdrc.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL20] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 976 Precedence: bulk Status: RO Chris said: > > > I experienced some problems with my automatic seatbelt this past week and > am looking for some advice. > Has anyone else had similiar problems? I've though about getting racing > harnesses. Is this a viable option and would they work with the factory > seats? > Thanks in advance for any help. > > Chris > 1990 Corrado > > kretovic@umich.edu > You might consider getting a set of non-motorized inertial reels from a Canadian model. I got some used from Ron's Parts and bolted them into my 93 slc. The fit much better, look tidier, and are almost certainly safer than the motorized belts. Expect to spend a couple of hundred buck, though. At least you don't have to drill or weld anything, though. You do have to replace a bunch of interior panels, and drill a hold in the carpet. All the mounting points already have holds and nuts installed. guy 93 slc (with cool inertial reel belts) (and a bent 7.5x16 OZ Evolution) From guy.allen@sdrc.com Mon Oct 30 17:18 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA26018; Mon, 30 Oct 1995 17:18:26 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from sdrc.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HX24W45X7K0010FP@UG.EDS.COM>; Mon, 30 Oct 1995 17:14:23 -0700 (PDT) Received: from sgi0 (sgi0.sdrc.com) by sdrc.com (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA15850; Mon, 30 Oct 95 20:15:14 EST Received: by sgi0 via ESMTP (950511.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH526/920502.SGI) id UAA29379; Mon, 30 Oct 1995 20:15:13 -0500 Received: by sgige92 (950511.SGI.8.6.12.PATCH526/930416.SGI) id BAA15690; Tue, 31 Oct 1995 01:15:12 GMT Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 20:15:12 -0500 (EST) From: guy.allen@sdrc.com (Guy Allen) Subject: Re: automatic seatbelt (fwd) In-Reply-To: <01HX24JBM27M001Q2L@UG.EDS.COM> from "Jan Vandenbrande" at Oct 30, 95 05:07:49 pm To: jan@UG.EDS.COM (Jan Vandenbrande) Message-Id: <199510310115.BAA15690@sdrc.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL20] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 1500 Status: RO > > I also got different inboard seat latches for $150US the pair. These > > aren't essential, because the new belt will fit into the existing > > inboard latch, but the correct latch is lower and farther rearward > > Do these just bolt off or are they welded on? > They just bolt on. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out how to snake them through the seat frame, though. The trick is to fold the seat forward. The seats must be out of the car. > > - I don't have the center console piece (that the parking brake > > sticks through). There is a big open section in the US spec part > > to make room for the lap belt inertial real. It doesn't do > > anything, its just ugly. > > Did you ever figure out how to remove the handbrake handle > (you know the stuff with the leather) so that you can remove the center > console. Bentley says: Press detent, but I never was able to get > it to loosen. > Haven't got that far yet. In fact, I don't even have the replacement piece from Ron's yet. I ought to give hime a call some time.... Let me know if you ever figure out how to remove the handbrake handle. I may need to know sometime. > Thanks, this is very helpful. > > -- > o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@ug.eds.com > __0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/ > \<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | > (_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | NO CARRIER > sure, no problem, guy guy.allen@sdrc.com From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Thu Nov 2 07:13 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA05051; Thu, 2 Nov 1995 07:13:09 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HX5QMLX6CG001VV2@UG.EDS.COM>; Thu, 02 Nov 1995 07:09:01 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id HAA05522 for corrado-l-outgoing; Thu, 2 Nov 1995 07:04:34 -0800 Received: from gate.ti.com (news.ti.com [192.94.94.33]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id HAA05517 for ; Thu, 2 Nov 1995 07:04:32 -0800 Received: from lesol1.dseg.ti.com ([128.247.231.86]) by gate.ti.com (8.6.12/) with ESMTP id JAA29437 for ; Thu, 2 Nov 1995 09:04:01 -0600 Received: from flsol1.dseg.ti.com (flsol1.dseg.ti.com [128.247.227.182]) by lesol1.dseg.ti.com (8.6.9/8.6.6) with SMTP id JAA02988 for ; Thu, 2 Nov 1995 09:03:31 -0600 Received: by flsol1.dseg.ti.com (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA14178; Thu, 2 Nov 95 09:03:29 CST Date: Thu, 02 Nov 1995 09:03:29 -0600 (CST) From: fzr600@flsol1.dseg.ti.com (oliver liu) Subject: Re: automatic seatbelt Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <9511021503.AA14178@flsol1.dseg.ti.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO I have Schrote 4pt harnesses in my SLC, they are great, a litlle uncomfortable at first, but you get used to them. I paid 126.00 a set directly from Schrote. They give a discount to SCCA memebers (like 5%) They also make a 3 pt harness, which mounts the "tail" to the rear seat's upper shoulder belt mounting point, the 4 pts mount to the rear passengers' lap belt mounting points., so the rear seats are rendered useless (I took out the rear seats). They also make a 3pt belt with an inertail reel (ie there is slack, like the stock belts) but you can lock it when you really want to get serious. Get the shoulder pads for the belts when you buy them, they are about 15.00, and they save belt rash if you ever get into a collision. -Oliver Liu p.s. Total installation time: about 5 hours, I coould probably do it in three, now that I have done it once. You'll need a torque wrench, a pair of vise-grips, and misc sockets and wrenches. From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Sat Feb 10 17:34 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA00110; Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:34:47 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I120WS17IO006TEA@UG.EDS.COM>; Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:14:27 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id RAA12102; Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:12:01 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:11:59 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id RAA12057 for corrado-l-outgoing; Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:11:57 -0800 Received: from [206.163.121.132] (ip-pdx07-04.teleport.com [206.163.121.132]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id RAA12029 for ; Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:11:49 -0800 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 17:11:49 -0800 From: finn@teleport.com (Doktor Avalanche) Subject: new dimentions enhancements Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: finn@mail.teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: finn@teleport.com (Doktor Avalanche) Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO just finished installing some parts i had purchaced through "turbo_tim" @ new dimentions.. parts included: 1. schrothe harness 3 point w/ inertia wheel... 2. p-chip by neuspeed 3. p-flow by neuspeed 4. momo polished aluminum shift knob... -- schrothe harness.. pretty easy to install even though it took me the better half of an evening.... i ended up completely removing the rear left passenger belt, as the inertia wheel mounts on the "c-pillar" where the shoulder strap for that belt is located.. i figuere that i don't really ever have people sit behind me... and if i did, i could not wear the harness as it would decapitate a rear seat passenger in an accident, and it would stain my cloth interior..... anyhow the auto-belt was broken by a surly parking attendant, whom later, emphaticly denied it.... (asshole) so i thought i could keep it stock and pay $680 for a new auto belt.. or $190 for a better one.. [you do the math] you have to remove the seat in order to access the bolts which hold on the belts... contraire to the 66 page schrothe manual i removed the existing straps.... they were dead weight anyhow... after the seat was out getting the bolt that retains the straps off is tough... it's on a small plate which rotates... this makes it tough to apply the correct leverage to the bolt as the entire thing rotates... try this... take the end of a hammer and wedge it onto the plate.. it should keep it from rotating enough to get the correct pressure to remove the nut.... you may have to whack it a couple of times as well; as there is that pasty white "lok-tite" on it.. apply staps.. be carefull to not twist them (you have to go back and put them on straight) .. it suggests on taking the current off of #15 on the fuse bay... this is kind of a waste... take off the passenger panel and tap into the bottom of the socket for the double relay that controls the auto belt for drivers side... (the belt in my case now was defunkt)... there is one thin black wire.. (the goal is to find a line which carries a current which is switched on when the key is on and past "acc" ) tap this one... some of the leads off the fuse box don't carry enough current to actuate the magnets... this also saves you running a lead along the floor-panel.. this is a good place to tap into the wire and add a "spdt" switch in the line.. the idea is to break the current to the inertia wheel as the actuator switch does that you will have to install... break the current flow and mount the switch near the shift knob or somewhere convienient.. when you throw it you lock the inertia wheel and the harness stays put.. (good for "spirited" driving ) mount the actuator switch 12" down from the c-pillar bolt and 7" over.. on the steel pannel under the (removed) passenger side pannel/arm rest.... there is a 2"dia. circle cut out of the steel there ... right under that is perfect. the actuator must be exactly plumb. this place happens to be the only plumb area in the car. screw it into the steel w/ the screws provided... that should be it.. test with a multimeter... make sure you get the voltage when the key is turned, and none when it's off. --p-chip.... took abot 2 hours... again, the hardest part is taking out the ecu.... that sux.... i thought i needed to take most of the windshield flashing off, but it was not nesc,,,, so there was a bit of wasted time there as well (disconnected the battery for safety).. the chip was simple to put in, they don't mention that you need a TORX wrench to open up the ecu, but it is needed, (i happened to have one left over from some work that i did on an x-girlfriend's powerbook (red type, t-10x3")i grounded myself before i opened up the ecu. .. i had this feeling that i was going to fail and zap the chip or something, yet it went smoothly.... you get a chance to clean out the air intake to the passenger compartment .. mine had a good amount of debris in it.. i never really underestood how it clogged and filled the passanger footspace with water, now i have a clear image. the results are well worth the installation. the car absolutely rips... there is an incredable pull felt through the entire rpm band, especially in the higher ends, shifting into fifth never felt so quick. the lower midrange gets punchier as well. --p-flow. took about 30mins. nothing too hard... the best thing about this install was the fact that you get to chuck the factory airbox... when i opened mine up, the filter must have slipped or something, as part of the filter was damp.. (rains alot in ore.) that whole unit is so depressing.. soo overengineered and just lifeless sitting on the floor. the neuspeed bracket is totally tech... i always had a mild feeling of contempt for the company as the only exposure i ever had to them were asian 15 year old's driving around in lowered civic's plastered with the neuspeed logo.(nothing againt asians or civics) anyhow, being a firm beleiver in plain wrap performance, the only neuspeed logo is the one on my chip deep inside the ecu, and the one on the bracket for the filter. again the thing is super tech and fit like a dream. the sound is the clencher... man, @ higher rpm's it just rips.. it sounds like the car should have when you originally got it,... mean and german. after you wind it up to 6000 or so and let go of the gass to shift, the sound it makes as it winds down is insane.. it sounds like a mental patient screaming backwards through 18' of 4" pvc pipe !!!!.. (or something). i can't log the power increase as i installed it in tandem with the chip, but the two of them together are really great... --MOMO knob. whatever.. looks cool in polished aluminum... feels cold!! any comments?? ps. i saw a crashed c. @ a junk yard today.. it was really sad... the driver MUST have been killed...so.. take it easy. -coleman. 90 Black on Black G-60 80k. Hor Tech. Springs. Autotech 25/28 hollow sways. Tokiko HP's. Perilli w210's, Neuspeed P-Chip, P-Flow, Schrothe Harness, Momo knob. Razzo Pedals. PIAA Fogs. Kenwood, ADS,ADCOM. From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Tue Feb 27 20:35 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA08417; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:35:01 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I1PYR3T5UO00093U@UG.EDS.COM>; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:33:26 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id UAA11737; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:28:20 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:27:59 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id UAA11521 for corrado-l-outgoing; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:27:56 -0800 Received: from dax.cc.uakron.edu (root@dax.cc.uakron.edu [130.101.5.4]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id UAA11448 for ; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 20:27:46 -0800 Received: from chatterer7.cc.uakron.edu by dax.cc.uakron.edu (5.65/Ultrix4.3) id AA04359; Tue, 27 Feb 1996 23:27:56 -0500 Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 23:24:55 -0500 From: Tim Zarkovacki Subject: Re: Multi-point racing seat belts Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: The Only True Corrado Cc: Corrado-l-digest Reply-To: Tim Zarkovacki Message-Id: <3133D917.40AF@dax.cc.uakron.edu> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0GoldB1 (Win95; I) Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: bulk References: <3133CD6D.24AD@hec.ca> Status: RO I just talked to some reps at Schroth. They said that is is very possible to install three and four point belts without sacrificing that back seat. All of their belts attach to either the C pillar or the D mounting point which is by the back armrest. This would leave the back seat usable but not so convenient. I just bought Schroth's 3 point Autocontrol belt and they said that it can mount to the stock rear seat belt location. This leaves the back seat usable and the back belts usable. They are $169 and come in all kinds of Colors. Jan has a link to their site if my info. doesn't cut it. Also, the autocontrol allows you to comfortably travel with the belts with out constantly being pinned to the seat. It has a electronic inertial reel that mounts in the back. I get them on Thursday along with my K&N filter. I can't wait to install them and get my car running. Hopefully I get my car out of storage in 3 weeks. Hope this helps TTYL From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Mar 28 15:13 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA02730; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:13:26 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I2VKCLJMDC002E7C@UG.EDS.COM>; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:12:22 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id PAA14170; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:09:16 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:09:10 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id PAA14054 for corrado-l-outgoing; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:09:06 -0800 Received: from mailhost.mai.net (root@mailhost.mai.net [204.152.42.42]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id PAA14001 for ; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 15:09:02 -0800 Received: from [206.106.215.36] (ppp015.md1.mai.net [206.106.215.36]) by mailhost.mai.net (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id RAA11734 for ; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:53:00 -0500 Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:53:00 -0500 From: achorn@mailhost.mai.net (george achorn) Subject: seatbelts Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: achorn@mailhost.mai.net (Unverified) To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: achorn@mailhost.mai.net (george achorn) Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO I'll keep this short. Ron's parts sells a conversion for the American C to give it real seatbelts like the Canadian and European counterparts. I think it costs around 300 bucks, but you can keep your rear seat so its better than a harness unless you race. Later-G \/ \/\/ Driver's Wanted. From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Feb 28 07:56 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA20483; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:56:00 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I1QMLX1BK0000D21@UG.EDS.COM>; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:54:37 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id HAA15028; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:51:02 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:51:00 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id HAA14998 for corrado-l-outgoing; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:50:59 -0800 Received: from dsnvxa.sugar-land.dowell.slb.com (DSNVXA.Sugar-Land.Dowell.slb.com [163.185.23.140]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id HAA14983 for ; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:50:55 -0800 Received: from Autocad5-pc by dsnvxa.sugar-land.dowell.slb.com with SMTP; Wed, 28 Feb 1996 9:39:35 -0600 (CST) Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 07:50:55 -0800 From: nsnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com (Nick Snyder) Subject: 5 point harness Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: nsnyder@dsnvsg.sugar-land.dowell.slb.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: nsnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com (Nick Snyder) Message-Id: <199602281550.HAA14983@desiree.teleport.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 2.0.3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO The discussions on getting 5-point harnesses is a good one except for one thing. All of you wanting to get one should know that if you do get one PLEASE install it correctly. The shoulder harness needs to go back at an angle. NOT directly down. If it goes directly down (or at a slight angle down) and you get into an accident it can cause spine compression.....and you don't want that. I have a Simpson 5-point harness that is removeable ( I only use it for autocross) via some eye-bolts in the body. I have a picture of it in the web page under accessories. The lap portion is bolted behind the seat track on each side and the shoulder harness goes into one piece and connects to the back by the spare tire. I had it professionally installed by a race shop here in town and the information above is from them. Just wanted to share this with all of you wanting to get these types of belts. Also make sure you get the pads that go on the shoulder portion... if not the belt will rub into your neck Later, NSnyder@sugar-land.dowell.slb.com >>93 Corrado SLC<< "Porsche performance at a VW price"