From lmcchbi@LMC.ericsson.se Tue Apr 26 09:24 PDT 1994 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (16.8/16.2) id AA03831; Tue, 26 Apr 94 09:24:19 -0700 Return-Path: Received: from camhpp12.ug.eds.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.2-11 #4) id <01HBMJMPXXF40079VC@UG.EDS.COM>; Tue, 26 Apr 1994 09:25:11 PDT Received: from mailer.ug.eds.com by camhpp12.ug.eds.com with SMTP (1.37.109.4/16.2) id AA03643; Tue, 26 Apr 94 09:24:04 -0700 Received: from mailgate.ericsson.se by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.2-11 #4) id <01HBMJM8WE80006MCY@UG.EDS.COM>; Tue, 26 Apr 1994 09:24:55 PDT Received: from noah.lmc.ericsson.se by mailgate.ericsson.se (4.1/SMI-4.1-MAILGATE1.14) id AA14311; Tue, 26 Apr 94 18:26:10 +0200 Received: from tapir.lmc.ericsson.se (tapir.lmc.ericsson.se [142.133.30.28]) by noah.lmc.ericsson.se (8.6.4/8.6.4) with ESMTP id MAA10260 for ; Tue, 26 Apr 1994 12:22:43 -0400 Received: from localhost (lmcchbi@localhost) by tapir.lmc.ericsson.se (8.6.4/8.6.4) id MAA02072 for jan@camhpp12.ug.eds.com; Tue, 26 Apr 1994 12:26:00 -0400 Date: Tue, 26 Apr 1994 12:26:00 -0400 From: "Luc C. Bijeau" To: jan@camhpp12 Message-Id: <199404261626.MAA02072@tapir.lmc.ericsson.se> X-Envelope-To: jan@fshpp1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Hello Jan! I was looking through the FAQs and didn't find anything about getting stuck doors to open. This happens a lot with A2's. Especially 4 door models, since they sometimes go for long periods without being opened and are exposed to more salt and water from the rear wheels. Anyway, I'll try to explain what should be done to get it to open. -First, before taking anything apart, try playing with the door lock and handle at the same time. This will work in most situations and is a sure sign that the lock is due for a good grease job. -If the door is really stuck (like mine was) a little more work is in order: -First of all, get a new lock. The old one is probably rusted beyond any hope of repair. A scrapyard is a good place to look. You can find a good one for a fraction of the cost of a new one. -If the rear doors are affected, remove the rear seat back for clearance. -Afterwards, the rubber weather seal that goes around the door needs to be pried out of position near the middle of the door. The door lock should then be visible through the gap. -Using a punch or a screwdriver, hammer on the lower part of the catch until it sinks into the lock. This can sometimes require quit a bit of effort. Line the punch up and hit the end with a good hammer. Then simply push on the door. Tada! The door should open. -Get the old lock off and replace it with the new one. Make sure it is packed with grease. -Note: You shouln't have to remove the inside door panel to do any of this. Well, hope you can use this. I know I could have a year ago. I didn't think it was possible to see the catch from inside the car with the door closed. I guess I was wrong eh? Regards, Luc Bijeau From lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!panix!not-for-mail Tue Oct 12 12:17:45 PDT 1993 Article: 21345 of rec.autos.vw Path: lynx.unm.edu!umn.edu!spool.mu.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!math.ohio-state.edu!cs.utexas.edu!uunet!panix!not-for-mail From: dans@panix.com (Dan Simoes) Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: Grease those door-handles, or suffer... Date: 11 Oct 1993 15:59:19 -0400 Organization: PANIX Public Access Internet and Unix, NYC Lines: 22 Message-ID: <29cdun$6es@panix.com> References: <1993Oct11.180902.26925@selway.umt.edu> <29cbca$eoe@usenet.ins.cwru.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: panix.com In article <29cbca$eoe@usenet.ins.cwru.edu>, Andrew A. Spencer wrote: >>pin (and the OUTSIDE of the lock cylinder (ie, don't dip your key in the >>stuff)) with some wheel bearing grease periodically, and it'll last a lot > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >lithium "white" grease, i believe, is the recommened. (other netters?) I may have said this before. If so, let me retract that. After removing all the handles (4) on my 82 Jetta, it seems that the white grease has a tendency to cake up and solidify, whereas the "shop" grease (bearing or whatever, it's in a long tube :-) ) seems to be softer after time. BTW, the new door lock mechanism I had to buy comes with the latter type of grease. I added more just as a precaution... | Dan | -- Dan Simoes Voice: 914.789.5378 Danix Consulting email: dans@panix.com or Yorktown Heights, NY dans@danix.uucp From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Jan 31 21:19 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA25228; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:19:42 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I0OAI16J1C006ER7@UG.EDS.COM>; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:17:48 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id VAA22753; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:15:43 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:15:41 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id VAA22715 for corrado-l-outgoing; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:15:39 -0800 Received: from emout10.mail.aol.com ([198.81.11.25]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id VAA22701 for ; Wed, 31 Jan 1996 21:15:36 -0800 Received: by emout10.mail.aol.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id AAA08810; Thu, 1 Feb 1996 00:14:30 -0500 Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 00:14:30 -0500 From: SELECTTRA@aol.com Subject: Re: locks Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: S31207%MOTHER@utrcgw.utc.com, corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: SELECTTRA@aol.com Message-Id: <960201001429_132893113@emout10.mail.aol.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="PART.BOUNDARY.0.2309.emout10.mail.aol.com.823151669" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO --PART.BOUNDARY.0.2309.emout10.mail.aol.com.823151669 Content-ID: <0_2309_823151669@emout10.mail.aol.com.1310> Content-type: text/plain Intended for Golf/Jetta/Quantum owners who can't get doors open..... --PART.BOUNDARY.0.2309.emout10.mail.aol.com.823151669 Content-ID: <0_2309_823151669@emout10.mail.aol.com.1311> Content-type: text/plain; name="UNLOCK.TXT" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If you have a door tht will not open, DO NOT, as some have suggested, = remove fender or ...... Instead, open another door on the car and look at= the = latch. Using a phillips screwdriver manually activate the latch while do= or = is open, much as the striker pin on door post activates the latch. You w= ill observe that the latch has a "finger" that wraps around the pin. Notice = that at 6:00 position there is a tab which holds the latch shut. (Operate door= handle or inside door release and relatch (manually) a few times so you a= re farmiliar with how latch works.) Usind a lond--about 18" thin screwdrive= r = ideally, depress this tab and latch will open. Again, perorm several tim= es so you are farmiliar with operation. =0D Now go to the inside of door/doors that will not open. One at a time, = stareting at top of the door 12:00, pull down rubber headliner retaining = trim with door seal (a screwdriver helps you start at the first point) and pul= l the seal counterclockwise to 8:00 position. You will notice the light coming in a= nd = see the latch at 12:00. Using a good light source and that long thin = screwdriver, press down "tab" on latch and the door is open. Sometimes, = a = tap of a hammer will help release a frozen latch. Once open, remove door= = handle by popping off trim with flat blade screwdriver near rear of handl= e. Remove the phillips head screw at outside of handle and one above latch, = at rear of handle. Remove latch with two 6 or 5mm hex (allen) head bolts an= d pulling down and outward to 3:00 position. The inside door lock pull slee= ve = will slide off and the door opener hinkage will be hooked on release leve= r. = Using a pocket screwdriver lock thie release lever in open position by = inserting in 1/4" sqare hole in bottom inner area of latch. =0D With latch in hand, remove pocket screwdriver and manually simulate lock operation, freeing any frozen parts with your favorite penetrant WD-40 or= whatever. Pay careful attention to small (like bic pen) return spring wh= ich tends to rust and break (we stock stainless steel replacements for $5.00 = or = visit your local hardware store) and is located vertically at rear lower = area = of latch. Once latch is working, clean off all lubricant corraosion resi= due = with brakeleen or whatever solvent. Once evaporated lubricate inner work= ings of latch with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID. We have tried every type of = oil, = never seize and the like and ATF seems to work smoothest. Lubricate the = handle inner workings the same way. =0D You then reassemble and test latch operation WITH DOOR OPEN simulating operation as you did to learn how the latch worked! You probably never f= elt a handle or latch that worked so smoothly. We likely stock and can UPS a= ny needed parts to complete the job. =0D --PART.BOUNDARY.0.2309.emout10.mail.aol.com.823151669-- From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Thu Feb 1 21:16 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA02904; Thu, 1 Feb 1996 21:16:32 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I0PMLFPHBK006LXC@UG.EDS.COM>; Thu, 01 Feb 1996 20:14:56 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with SMTP id UAA06095; Thu, 1 Feb 1996 20:12:36 -0800 Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Thu, 1 Feb 1996 20:12:34 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id UAA06054 for corrado-l-outgoing; Thu, 1 Feb 1996 20:12:32 -0800 Received: from nasc.mass.edu (pine.nasc.mass.edu [134.241.55.62]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id UAA06019 for ; Thu, 1 Feb 1996 20:12:28 -0800 Received: by nasc.mass.edu (8.6.10/SMI-4.1) id EAA27723; Fri, 2 Feb 1996 04:12:46 GMT Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 23:12:46 -0500 (EST) From: Hulda Jowett Subject: Dealer fix for frozen locks! Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: Hulda Jowett Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO My friend at the dealer asked me if I was having trouble with frozen locks this year. Why yes, I am (along with a few on the list here). He told me that there is a service bulliten for it. Apparently water is seeping into the lock cylinders through a small gap. VW offers an O-ring that is supposed to fill this space and prevent the seepage. I think VW will pay for it if the car is still under warrenty. If your car is out of warrenty the o-rings are a dollar and some change, but you have to deal with the labor. Brian 93 VR6