From ug!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!DIALix!metapro!bernie Mon Mar 1 10:02:52 PST 1993 Article: 11419 of rec.autos.vw Relay-Version: EDS Unigraphics News Server 14/03/90 VAX/VMS V5.5; site ug.eds.com Path: ug!uunet!munnari.oz.au!uniwa!DIALix!metapro!bernie Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: Argh! New door handle! Message-ID: <1993Feb26.071503.26974@metapro.DIALix.oz.au> From: bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au (Bernd Felsche) Date: Fri, 26 Feb 93 07:15:03 GMT References: <1993Feb23.223811.22024@cs.mun.ca> Organization: MetaPro Systems, Perth, Western Australia Lines: 160 In <1993Feb23.223811.22024@cs.mun.ca> michael9@cs.mun.ca (Michael Sullivan) writes: > After getting the local garage to replace my front drivers side door handle, >I realized that now I have to carry two sets of keys! One for my door, the >other for the passenger door, trunk, glove box, and ignition. This is >really annoying. I liked the fact that one key did it all. I trust that you have the old handle. > Is it possible (and economical) to get the pins in the drivers lock >set to the old way? How is this done? Who does it? You can do it if you have the old handle. It takes under an hour. > What would the dealer have done if I had gotten them to do the work? In >the search for a used one, I discovered that handles breaking off is quite >common (I had to buy a new one. Not a single used handle within local >calling distance!). So there must either be a lot of people with two sets of >keys, or changing the key codes is a fairly minor process. What sort of handle? On the water-cooled VW's - well most - you can either pull the entire lock tumber out (put in a key that fits first) and slide it into the new handle. If the lock cylinder front is damaged, then you can swap the "tumblers" - one at a time. Remove the door handle as usual by *carefully* prising off the exterior cap (black plastic or pressed steel insert). Remove the screw from the outside, open the door, and remove the screw which is at the edge of the door. Don't drop this in the door cavity! You can then remove the door handle by sliding it forward slightly, and pulling it out gently. You'll also have two gaskets on the handle. Take the entire assmbly to a well-lit location where you won't loose little bits and pieces. Divide your work area into three; one for each handle and a central one where you do the fiddling. The lock cylinder is held in place with a screw at the back. Insert a key that fits. Carefully remove the screw - as this also holds in the lock cam against a spring. Note how you'll have to re-install the spring. There's a tab at the base of the cam which helps to hold the spring legs apart during assembly. If the cam hasn't popped off by now, remove that and catch the spring! The lock barrel can be pulled out towards the front using the key. Do not turn the key while you are doing this. LEAVE THE KEY IN THE LOCK BARREL or you might jumble the lock. Repeat the disassembly on the new handle. Don't mix up the parts! The cam, lock barrel, spring and screw should be kept as a group from each handle. Swap the sub-assembly groups to exchange good lock barrels. If the old lock barrel has the front damaged by somebody trying to break in, the "tumblers" can usually be interchanged. The "tumblers" are actually thin brass plates with slots cut into them. They can be pulled out from the side of the lock barrel using needle-nose pliers. ***** WARNING!! ***** If you get this wrong, you could spend days getting it right. There are 720 different ways of arranging the same 6 tumblers in the same barrel. READ THIS CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU TRY IT! ***** END WARNING ***** Slowly remove the key (duh!) from one barrel and allow the tumblers to extend. Note that with the correct key inserted, that the ends of the tumblers are flush with the outside of the barrel. Some tumblers may fall out as you remove the key - pull they key out slowly and don't drop the barrel with the key removed. The tumblers sit in narrow slots. Starting at the lock-cam end, carefully grasp the extended end of the tumbler, push it down slightly and move it towards the "unused" edge of the slot, then slide it out carefully. A small spring may drop out at this time from the rounded end of the slot... don't panic. On the new lock barrel, do the same thing. Don't get the tumblers mixed up. Don't change their order! Take your time. Don't hurry. Insert the tumbler from old barrel into the new one, complete with a spring. Make sure that it "latches" in when released under spring pressure. (I never bothered to do this, but at this stage you can verify your handiwork by inserting the old key in the new barrel, and the tumbler you have just inserted should be flush with the outside of the barrel.) Place the tumbler from the new barrel into the free slot in the old barrel. Repeat until all tumblers have been swapped. Verify you handiwork by inserting the old key in the new barrel, and vice versa. All tumblers should be flush with the correct key inserted. If it looks wrong - don't panic. You may have tried the wrong key! Put some lithium grease into the lock-barrel recess of door handle and fit the barrel with the key inserted. The lock should turn normally. Do this with both handles. Now, remember what I said about keeping the barrel, cam, spring and screw as a group? Good! Fit the spring and lock cam over the end of the barrel, spreading the spring's legs using the tab on the base of the lock cam and the tab on the lock barrel itself. Hold this firmly in place and insert the screw to hold it. Tighten the screw well; you can imagine what happens if this comes off! Put some lithium grease on the levers and cams. A common problem of the latch and lock feeling stiff is because there's no grease there! Check the action of the lock turning and the latch release before installing the new handle. Installation is the reverse of removal (:-)). Take care with the gaskets, and don't break the handle trim insert. If you have any problems, take a short walk, listen to "Eye in the Sky" or otherwise relax, then think about what's gone wrong. I managed to swap the tumblers in my Golf in about 15 minutes, total time. Your mileage may vary. Don't hurry. Work systematically. Enjoy the results. -- +-----+ Bernd Felsche _-,_|\ #include | | | | MetaPro Systems Pty Ltd / | \ bernie@metapro.DIALix.oz.au | | | | 328 Albany Highway, X_.'-._/ Fax: +61 9 472 3337 |m|p|s| Victoria Park, Western Australia 6100 v Phone: +61 9 362 9355 From cc.usu.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!umd5.umd.edu!dataranch.lap.umd.edu!user Tue Sep 6 17:58:44 PDT 1994 Article: 19726 of rec.autos.vw Relay-Version: ANU News - V6.1 08/24/93 VAX/VMS V1.5; site cc.usu.edu Path: cc.usu.edu!news.cs.utah.edu!cs.utexas.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!europa.eng.gtefsd.com!news.umbc.edu!haven.umd.edu!umd5.umd.edu!dataranch.lap.umd.edu!user Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: [w] Re-keying the glove compartment. How? Message-ID: From: sobiloff@mail.lap.umd.edu (Blake Sobiloff) Date: Tue, 06 Sep 1994 14:14:25 -0400 References: Organization: Lab for Automation Psychology NNTP-Posting-Host: dataranch.lap.umd.edu Lines: 37 In article , roshaugh@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu (Robert F. O'shaughnessy) wrote: > Well I re-keyed my whole 85 Jetta when I got it (it needed two > keys and the trunk still did not lock) and I got everything done but the > glove compartment. Now that I have a few things in the car I'd like to > lock up, I want to finish the job. > How on earth do I get the cylinder out of the glove compartment lock? If I remember correctly, there are a couple of plastic tabs you have to separate to pull the cylinder out -- it's a real jigsaw puzzle of parts. I did this a number of months ago, however, and don't remember exactly how it went; I'll try to look this evening and give you a better description. What I found annoying, however, was that the cylinder which came with my lock set (from Eurorace) was too large for my '85 GTI's glove box. I haven't had the time to scrounge around in junk yards for a later-model glove box, so I've been running around without a glove box for a couple of months. :-) Before you disassemble your lock, check the length of the new cylinder to make sure it's going to be the right size... > On a related topic, I know from the FAQ how easy it is to get in > the doors on VW's, but is it as easy to get into the trunk of my Jetta? I > am asking because I trust my trunk with almost all my Nikon gear at times. Do you have folding rear seats? If so, it's a piece of cake once thieves have made it inside the passenger compartment. (I lost over $500 worth of tools that way... :-( As for bypassing the lock, I assume there's an easy way to rip the whole cylinder out because I see lots of Jettas around the DC area with chromed reinforcing plates surrounding new lock mechanisms on their trunks. -- Blake Sobiloff | University of Maryland Laboratory for Automation Psychology | College Park, MD 20742-4411 Department of Psychology | 301/405-5936 (Voice) http://www.lap.umd.edu/LAPFolder/People/Sobiloff.html