This procedure is mostly for pre-Corrado cars. The Corrados already
have 11" brakes. Note also
that the VR6 and G60 Corrados have different knuckles, which probably
means that the
G60 brakes are a more likely candidate to upgrade your cars. See also
the comments on
the technical FAQ on this issue.
Note that many tuners also sell these upgrades as a kit.
Unfotunately, the original author did not leave a name.
Here are some additional resources:
Contact me if you have more.
Jan
NOTE:
The wheel bearing housings or "Steering Knucles" are an integral part of the brake assembly. When upgrading your brakes, it is necessary to change this to accommodate the larger calipers, carriers, wheel bearings and hubs. In some cases, the ball joint must also be changed. Some vehicles have the smaller ball joints, where others have the larger ball joints. If you are putting on 10.1" or 11" brakes, you will need to convert to the larger ball joints. If ball joints have not been previously replaced, you will need to obtain a lock plate, drill out the factory rivets, and install the new lock plate in place of the rivets to fasten the ball joint to the lower a-arm.
PARTS NECESSARY FOR CONVERSION:
STEERING KNUCKLES
WHEEL BEARINGS
DUST SHIELDS
CALIPERS
CARRIERS
BALL JOINTS (LARGE STYLE)
HUBS
22.2MM MASTER CYLINDER
ROTORS
PADS
BRAKE BOOSTER OPTIONAL
Begin by removing the front wheels. Next, remove the brake caliper, and move it off to the side. Remove the carrier, and the screw which holds the rotor on. You may have to tap the rotor to loosen it from the hub, as corrosion may seize them together. Be careful when removing the phillps head screw, as you do not want to strip it out. Remove the rotor. Remove the ball joint bolt, and pull down on the a-arm to remove the ball joint from the carrier. Remove the nut from the bottom of the tie rod end, and pull the tie rod out of the carrier. Remove the large axle nut from the end of the axle. Pull on the carrier assembly and remove the end of the axle from the hub. Let the tie rod and axle dangle off to the side. Remove the two bolts which attach the strut housings to the steering knuckles. Remove the knuckle assembly. Remove the brake line from the bracket that is on the body, and set the caliper aside. If you are changing to the later style big post ball joints, you will need to remove the old ones. If the car has not had ball joints previously, then you will need to drill out the factory rivets, and upon re-assembly, get the factory lock plate, which has screws and bolts attached to the lockplate. Re-assemble it and make sure that it is tight.
Assembly:
Depending on the kit you have for the brakes, it may require some special tools to assemble the steering knuckle unit. If the steering knuckles are already assembled: That is if the wheel bearings are pressed into the steering knuckles as well as the hubs, the procedure is reverse of removal. If the bearings and hubs are separate, you will need a special VW tool or a hydraulic press to assemble it. If the items listed above are used, it is a good idea to re-tap the lug nut and rotor screw holes with a chaser to do a complete job. Inspect the wheel bearings and look for loose play between the knuckles and the hub. If they seem okay, then you are ready for installation.
Begin assembling the unit by bolting the knuckle unit to the shock housing. Install the axle into the hub housing, taking care to align the teeth for a smooth fit. Use a new locknut on the axle nut if you can. If not, apply loctite threadlock to the threads. Tighten it as far as it will go, then tighten it some more. Align the ball joints with the hole on the steering knuckles and press the ball joint and a-arm up into the knuckle as far as it will go. insert the bolt and tighten it. Rest a second, then tighten it some more. You donít want this coming apart. Re-install the tie rod end into the knuckle with the bolt portion facing down. Apply loc-tite to the threads and tighten the bolt real tight. Examine the rotor for wear, mic it out to make sure it is thick enough, and replace if necessary. Clean the hub and apply anti seize to the hub, and to the back of the rotor. Install the rotor, and use a brand new phillips head screw if possible. Install the brake carrier, and tighten the bolts very tight. Remove the brake line holder eyelet from the old line, and install it on the new one. Install the brake line onto the union, which is in the fender well, attached to the body. Apply anti seize to the backs of the pads, and clean the seats on the carriers if they are corroded and dirty. Install the brake caliper, and bolt it down. Procedure is the same for the opposite side. Please note that your alignment is now way out of adjustment. You will need to re align the car.
Next you are ready for the master cylinder replacement. Remove the coolant reservoir by pulling straight up on it, and setting it aside. Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Use a flare nut wrench, as this preserves the condition of the ferules. Remove the two nuts which bolt the master cylinder to the booster. Remove the master cylinder. Remove the reservoir from the cylinder by pulling on it GENTLY. Clean it with parts solvent, and rinse. Go inside the car and disconnect the brake pedal from the rod which pushes the master cylinder piston. Take a wrench, and remove the four bolts which hold the booster onto the firewall, from inside the engine compartment. Remove the vacuum line from the booster. Remove the booster. Installation is reverse of removal. Bleed the brake system at every wheel, and bleed the master. Align the car on an alignment machine. Take precaution on a test drive.
ENJOY!!