REAR BRAKE TOOLS ================ Author: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) Editor: Jan Vandenbrande Summary: -------- Most VWs with rear disk brakes require a special tool to replace the pads. Up to 1989 only a hex key was required, however the newer ones require yet another tool. Here's how the original tool works, and possible ways around it: Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw From: keys@starchild.ncsl.nist.gov (Lawrence B. Keys) Subject: [W] Rear disk "special tool" '89 - present LONG Message-ID: Sender: news@dove.nist.gov Organization: National Institute of Standards & Technology Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1993 16:04:16 GMT Lines: 93 As i mentioned in a post from a few days ago, i was able to replace my rear disk pads (finally) when my local VW club held a clinic at one of the local dealers. While my car was on the lift the mechanic on duty loaned me the tool that he uses (not the "official VW" tool) to back the piston into the caliper of '89 - present GTI/GLI's cars equiped with disk brakes in the rear. I couldn't swear to it, but i think that Corrado's and Passat's also use this configuration. As with front disk brakes, the caliper piston must be backed-in (recessed) before new pads can be installed. The difference is that the front caliper piston can be backed-in using a "C" clamp or something similar. The rear caliper piston must be screwed (clockwise) into the piston. I don't know why they must be screwed in, but maybe someone can answer this. >> From: stulen_j@qis.dofasco.ca >> I think the reason for this is the parking brake. There is a sort of rachet >> inside the piston which holds it against the pad so that the parking brake >> lever will always take the same number of 'clicks' to engage regardless >> of pad wear. You 'screw' the piston back in to get around the rachet >> mechanism. On some '88 and older rear disk equiped VW's the rear caliper piston can be backed-in using a hex wrench (10mm i believe). On '89 - present cars the caliper piston has 2 notches on the outter edge which must be engaged in order to back the piston in. Several people have e-mailed me messages asking if i thought that it would be possible to fabricate a similar tool. I'd have to say yes, however, i would be concerned about tearing the piston boot because the boot (in my case) extended to the edge of the piston. Also, the caliper had to be suspended in order to back the piston in and it becomes a handfull holding the caliper while trying to turn this tool and at the same time not streching the brake line. Anyway, as some have requested, i have created this ASCII drawing to try to depict what this tool looks like. Sorry for the crude graphics. BOOT> >_____ -- || [ [ | || CALIPER | | | || -------- PISTON | | |\\\\\\\\\\||\\\\\\\\\\| | | | | B || -------- [ [ | || D ----- -- || > A || BOOT> C ] = The locations of the pins which extend above the surface of the disk and interlock with the caliper piston. Note: Again, this tool is not specifically designed for VW's. The notches in the VW caliper piston are actually sort-of "V" shaped. These pins are cylindrical, yet they work. The VW Tool cost more then an entire kit. A = The interchangable disks (for different sized caliper pistons) the large screw (B) has a hex head end which inserts into the disk (A). These disks can be purchased separately or in a kit. I made a template of the disk and its pins, however, i forgot to measure its diameter (approx. 2") before i typed this post. Note: Sears stocks the disk individually and they also have part which makes up section B,C & D in my drawing, (under the Leslie (i think) brand the packaging is red and white, and J.C. Whitney sells an entire kit. B = The screw used for advancing or backing out the disk (A) C = The plate which rests against the inside of the caliper to provide an anchor for the tool when the caliper disk is being compressed. D = The end of the screw (B) where your socket/wrench attaches in order to advance disk (A) Hope this helps. . / Larry __/ _______/_ keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov / \ _____ __ _____ \------- === ----------- / ____/ / / /__ __/ \ / ___ / / ___ / / / / ____ | | / \/ /__ / | / /__ __/ /__ / \ / /___ \_______/ /_____/ /______/ ====OO \ / \ / - - ---------------- FAHRVERGNUGEN FOREVER! -------------------- The fact that I need to explain it to you indicates that you probably wouldn't understand anyway! ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Possible Alternatives ===================== [Jan] Use a combination of a C-Clamp with a "universal" rear brake tool. The latter either looks like a disc with several notches, or a cube with a variety of shaped and spaced notches that fit into the brake piston. Fit the tool into the piston, then clamp with the C-Clamp, and twist somehow. That special adaptor can be had at most car stores for about 10US$. Article 37001 of rec.autos.vw: Path: lynx.unm.edu!jobone!newsxfer.itd.umich.edu!uunet!noc.near.net!bigboote.WPI.EDU!nntp!mvoorhis From: mvoorhis@zklzz.WPI.EDU (Michael C Voorhis) Newsgroups: rec.autos.vw Subject: Re: Changing rear brake pads on a Corrado G60 Date: 05 Aug 1994 22:51:34 GMT Organization: RSUC -- Russell Street UNIX & Caffeine Lines: 28 Message-ID: References: NNTP-Posting-Host: zklzz.wpi.edu In-reply-to: mspivak@hyperdesk.com's message of Fri, 5 Aug 1994 12:15:29 In article mspivak@hyperdesk.com (Marat Spivak) writes: > I would like to replace my rear brake pads (which interestingly enough > became worn out before the front pads did). The special tool needed > to do this does not appear to be a typical hex wrench, but a special > tool referred to as 3131 on the microfische. Does anyone know what > this 3131 tool is? THis tool is mentioned in the file Rear_Brakes_Tool, at the VW ftp archive ftp.lap.umd.edu. This file is pointed to by the technical FAQ, in its BRAKES section. The Rear_Brakes_Tool file mentions that the tool may be available from JC WHitney. I looked in my latest (15 July) VW Parts and Acessories catalog, and Lo and Behold, there it is, on page 45. It's in Whitney's 5 and 9 piece Brake Tol Set. If your bentley catalog is different (mine is cat # 42J), the item is in the index under Brake Tools. The part numbers for these kits are: 5 pc: 81XX2270R $10.99 9 pc: 81XX3494U $23.99 neither of these prices includes shipping, so expect to be reamed out by Whitney's shipping costs, unless you live in Chicago. Mike (mvoorhis@wpi.edu) 86 Jetta GL, 93 Corrado SLC From quad@fc.net Tue Jan 24 14:58 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA09642; Tue, 24 Jan 1995 14:58:19 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from freeside.fc.net by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HM88R240HS00CFA7@UG.EDS.COM>; Tue, 24 Jan 1995 14:55:53 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from quad@localhost) by freeside.fc.net (8.6.8.1/8.6.6) id QAA19807; Tue, 24 Jan 1995 16:55:32 -0600 Date: Tue, 24 Jan 1995 16:55:32 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Flynn Subject: Correction/addition to Rear_Brakes_Tool in archives To: jan@UG.EDS.COM Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO Jan, Just did this procedure this weekend, wanted to update the archives Quoted from Rear_Brakes_Tool file in archives: >On some '88 and older rear disk equiped VW's the rear caliper piston can >be backed-in using a hex wrench (10mm i believe). On '89 - present... On '85 to '88 with rear disk brakes: The hex wrench is 12mm, a little hard to find, I got mine at Sears. Depending on amount of wear on pads you are replacing, it may seem like you need to make a lot of turns to get anywhere (I counted 80 on mine!). Therefore, a hex attachment to a socket wrench is easier on the patience than a normal L shaped hex wrench. You have to support the caliper while you are winding in the piston clockwise...I used a couple of paint cans for the drivers side, where on the passengers side i misused a double opened end wrench to prop the caliper up against its mounting point, since winding it clockwise takes you in different directions depending on which side of the car you are on. Tom Flynn '86 GTI 8v I represent only myself From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Mon Jun 12 17:05 PDT 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA23667; Mon, 12 Jun 1995 17:05:49 -0700 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HRMJOWE228007LGP@UG.EDS.COM>; Mon, 12 Jun 1995 17:03:11 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.10/8.6.9) id QAA03840 for corrado-l-outgoing; Mon, 12 Jun 1995 16:51:01 -0700 Received: from netcom15.netcom.com (root@netcom15.netcom.com [192.100.81.128]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.10/8.6.9) with ESMTP id QAA03824 for ; Mon, 12 Jun 1995 16:50:56 -0700 Received: from DialupEudora by netcom15.netcom.com (8.6.12/Netcom) id QAA12848; Mon, 12 Jun 1995 16:50:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 12 Jun 1995 16:51:09 -0700 From: bdunning@netcom.com (Brian Dunning) Subject: Idiot's Guide to Brake Replacement Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: bdunning@localhost To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO I have successfully solved my problems, completed the job, and hereby issue this Idiot's Guide for the benefit of other non-technical, non-mechanically inclined Corrado owners who wouldn't mind finding $100 in the street by doing their own brake job. I have a 92 SLC. If by any chance your model's brakes differ from mine, you should have gotten a 92 SLC. A few special tools are needed: 1. A 17mm socket. I broke two sockets before going out and getting a Craftsman socket, so make sure it's a good one. 2. An 8mm hex drive. Contrary to at least one prior post, the rear calipers are held on with hex bolts, not conventional bolts. 3. A damn big C-clamp, 6-inch capacity. 4. A big arm for the socket and hex drive, preferably at least a foot long. My bolts were on so tight I couldn't believe it. 5. That famous little cube thing, a "universal disc brake tool," only needed for the rear brakes. Available at any auto parts store, you'll almost certainly need a file or hacksaw to make it fit the VW brake piston. 6. A reliable way to jack up your car. You'll be yanking and tugging with all your strength with your head inside the wheel well, so the stock jack is absolutely not adequate (I used the stock jack, but then piled up big pieces of wood to use as jack stands). 7. A way to get the wheels off your car. For some reason, my lug nuts have always seemed permanently welded on. Last time I got tires, the shop had to drill out five of the lug nuts. This time I didn't mess around and got the huge Craftsman metric tire iron, the big "X" kind with the needed 17mm socket on one end. It still took two people to get my lugs off. So much for the materials; if you've got everything (including, of course, brake pads), the whole thing should be done in about 2 hours max. Less if you've done it before. FRONT BRAKES Easiest, so do them first to get your feet wet. Take off the wheel, obviously. On the back of the caliper, you'll see two big 17mm bolts. Take those off first. Now the caliper's loose; you just have to manhandle it off the rotor. If it's hard to get off, try prying one end off first. The brake line is now the only thing holding it on...be careful of that. Try not to let the whole caliper hang by the brake line. Take out the old pads. They just snap right out. If your brakes have been clanking over bumps, here's where you'll see the broken brake clips. Contrary to other prior postings, the brake clips are riveted onto the outer edges of the pads; they are not separate pieces. Take off that flimsy metal piece covering the top of the piston. Take care to note its orientation, with the two little tabs projecting through the slot on the caliper's outer edge. Put the big C-clamp onto the piston, and drive the piston back down into the caliper until it's just below the top edge of its rubber boot. Reinstall the flimsy metal piece. Now you can fit in the new pads. Careful not to break the clips. When they're in all the way, there should be enough clearance to put the caliper assembly back onto the rotor. If there's not, you didn't jam the piston down far enough with the clamp. When reinstalling the caliper assembly, make sure you don't have any kinks in the brake line. Replace the bolts (crank 'em on good), put the wheel back and you're done! REAR BRAKES Remove the wheel as before. First thing to do here is disconnect the emergency brake cable. Compress and remove that coil spring. Pull the clip off where the cable attaches to the caliper, being careful to note how it goes on. Pull that ball end of the cable out of its place by grabbing it with pliers and prying it out. Then (careful of the rubber boot), pull the cable out through the hole on the caliper. All set. Unbolt the caliper using the 8mm hex drive and take it off the rotor. Take out the old pads as before. File or hacksaw the cube until you have a side that mates securely with the cutouts in the top of the piston. I used a side that had four tabs, then sawed two of them off. Fortunately, it's cheesy, soft metal. Here's the tricky part. Open the C-clamp all the way and clamp the cube to the end of the piston, with the rotating foot of the clamp against the cube. Tighten it as much as you can. Stick a screwdriver into the hole in the side of the cube, and ROTATE the piston clockwise no more than 1/8 of a turn. Then tighten the clamp as much as you can again. Repeat this procedure until the piston will not rotate any more, or until the top of the piston is a bit below the top of its rubber boot. Put the new pads in, stick the caliper back on, bolt it in. Reconnect the emergency brake cable. Be careful of the rubber boot when jamming it back through the hole on the caliper. Then make sure both ends of the boot are securely snapped in place. Put the ball back in, replace the coil spring, and snap that clip back on, taking care to clip the top of it just below the rubber boot and not over it. Put the wheel back on, and put the car back on the ground. You're done!!! ALMOST.... Clean the grime off your butt and get in. The brake pedal will go all the way to the floor a few times. Start the car, pump it once or twice more, then take some little "baby steps." By now the brakes should be pretty much adjusted. A little bit of light contact between the pads and the rotor is normal at this stage. You're all set, and you saved a hundred bucks! Go drive your wheels off. Brian Dunning bdunning@netcom.com From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Tue Jun 13 19:25 PDT 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA03988; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:25:18 -0700 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HRO2V757Y80056VQ@UG.EDS.COM>; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:22:41 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.10/8.6.9) id TAA13880 for corrado-l-outgoing; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:13:51 -0700 Received: from decws3.coe.wvu.edu (decws3.coe.wvu.edu [157.182.83.23]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.10/8.6.9) with SMTP id TAA13875 for ; Tue, 13 Jun 1995 19:13:47 -0700 Received: by decws3.coe.wvu.edu (5.57/Ultrix3.0-C) id AA18111; Tue, 13 Jun 95 22:11:19 -0400 Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 22:11:18 -0400 (EDT) From: ja@decws3.coe.wvu.edu (John Anderson) Subject: Re: air in line (a few brake tips) In-Reply-To: <01HRO0DZ7ZNM004EVV@UG.EDS.COM>; from "Jan Vandenbrande" at Jun 13, 95 6:13 pm Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <9506140211.AA18111@decws3.coe.wvu.edu> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11] Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO > > > Is it possible I might have let air into the brake lines? How would I > > know? I understand that this power braking system will not give any > > feedback (such as the pedal being extra squishy). > I strongly reccomend the trick of opening the bleeders, if you opened them far enough it should have been much much easier to twist the pistons in and you should get a noticeable amount of fluid out, since you might as well bleed em or change fluid anyway I never saw a problem opening them up. On my '90 with ABS there was simply no way to squeeze both in without opening the bleeder, turning the first in seemed to build up pressure in the system I could not turn against enough on the second one. BTW you can make a very nice copy of the infamous VW tool for these cars to retract the piston from about $5 in pipe fittings and an hour of work with a grinder and a couple of files. I have used my homemade one on 2 changes on my old Quantum syncro, mom's Passat, and the Corrado with never a ripped boot or other problem. One caution about doing brake jobs on the rear, do NOT rip the boot on the hand brake cable, that boot is a sore point on all VW rear discs, in inevitable tears, letting h20 down the cable to freeze in the winter and of course they are not available, ie. buy a new cable. The tip is this, pull the boot OFF the cable part before shoving it back through the hole in the caliper, it will go easily, if you don't it will jamm up. BTW the boots on the pins are also very easy to molest, I clean the gunk off mine with a paintbrush before loosening the mounting bolts and after I finish the job wipe them and the brake cable boot with Black Magic, just a minute amount, not enough to ever run over the brakes. Just like the brake cable if the pin boots get torn I think you got to buy a new carrier assemble, not a good thing. One more easy tip, the nut on the caliper pin, the one you got to hold requires a 14 or 15 mm thin wrench, to get on it, normal SNAP-ON and Craftsman seldom fit, take one of those useless 10mm/13mm VW wrenches from your previous VW tools and grind/file it out to the correct size, the thickness is perfect. > It's a good idea, no matter what, to bleed your brakes periodically. > Actually, you are *supposed* to change the fluid every 2 years... > Good idea! I worked with my sis's Rabbit, and that was probably *never* > bled, and you would not believe what havoc that creates. > Yeah no shit, I recently changed the origional fluid out of my aunts '78 diesel, boy was it nasty and explained the bad rear cylinder problems, when I bought the Quantum there were also a number of corrosion problems from never having been changed, I change all my families cars every 2 years religiously, $10-$15 of fluid is a lot less than a $100 caliper. > What I do, is drain most of the fluid from the reservoir & replace, then > follow the bleeding instructions from Bentley. The ABS have to > bled differently, and if I remember right, just turning on the ignition > will pump the fluid out (at least for the rears). Use SUPER DOT 4. > Jan is correct on ABS front is bled normally, on the rear all you got to do is open the bleeder and turn on the igniton to let the pump pump the fluid out, a couple of pieces of advice, if I recall the pedal must still be slightly depressed to get it to flow out the backs and I think you must hold the regulator in front of the rear axle in it's compressed position, easily done as there is a little hole in it's lever and in it's casting, you simply bend a little U of coat hanger that will be the appropriate lenght, squeeze them together and put the coat hanger in the holes, it will keep the lever in, remember to take it out. ONLY LET THE PUMP RUN 1 MIN OR SO AT A TIME, or whatever Bentley says. AND REMEMBER, DEPRESSURIZE THE SYSTEM BEFORE STARTING THIS IS REAL REAL CRITICAL, the abs accumulator holds system pressure after the car is off pressure on the magnitude of 3000 psi or so, READ BENTLEY INSTRUCTIONS FULLY BEFORE BLEEDING AN ABS EQUIPPED CAR. TO depressurize you pump 20 times or so until the pedal gets HARD, you will know the difference when it happens then you bleed the fronts or replace the pads or whatever. John ja@coe.wvu.edu '71 Westy, '90 G60 From corrado-l-owner@teleport.com Sat Nov 11 07:26 PST 1995 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA24136; Sat, 11 Nov 1995 07:26:52 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01HXIAJZRTG0004002@UG.EDS.COM>; Sat, 11 Nov 1995 07:04:09 -0700 (PDT) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) id MAA13587 for corrado-l-outgoing; Fri, 10 Nov 1995 12:53:00 -0800 Received: from netcom5.netcom.com (root@netcom5.netcom.com [192.100.81.113]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.6.12/8.6.9) with ESMTP id MAA13561 for ; Fri, 10 Nov 1995 12:52:54 -0800 Received: from DialupEudora by netcom5.netcom.com (8.6.12/Netcom) id MAA12857; Fri, 10 Nov 1995 12:51:23 -0800 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 12:52:49 -0800 From: bdunning@netcom.com (Brian Dunning) Subject: Re: Help, Calipers no go Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com X-Sender: bdunning@localhost To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: corrado-l@teleport.com Message-Id: X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO The Corrado web site has a Garage Tips document which covers this very thoroughly. The little cube tool has to be modified a bit to fit securely against the caliper, and the whole thing gets clamped tight with a big ass C-clamp. Tighten the clamp as much as possible, turn the cube no more than 1/8 turn, tighten the clamp again, and keep repeating this until the caliper is all the way back in. DO NOT open the bleeder valve (if you haven't already) it is NOT necessary. The caliper will go in without a problem, you may just have to torque the heck out of it with the C-clamp. The web doc says how big of a C-clamp to get, and may mention how the little cube tool needs to be modified. Pep Boys makes it to fit every car except the Corrado. When I did it, it just took 5 minutes with the hacksaw to trim a couple of the little tabs. That cube's made of real soft metal. Brian Dunning bdunning@netcom.com PASS SET CRUSH Translation: SHANK DOUBLE CHOKE From owner-corrado-l@teleport.com Wed Apr 3 02:38 PST 1996 Received: from mailer by fshpp1 with SMTP (1.38.193.4/16.2) id AA00404; Wed, 3 Apr 1996 02:38:10 -0800 Return-Path: Received: from desiree.teleport.com by UG.EDS.COM (PMDF V4.3-10 #4) id <01I337PC0OXS00340J@UG.EDS.COM>; Wed, 03 Apr 1996 02:37:05 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.7.5/8.7.3) with SMTP id NAA07505; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 13:54:30 -0800 (PST) Received: by desiree.teleport.com (bulk_mailer v1.3); Mon, 1 Apr 1996 13:54:27 -0800 Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.7.5/8.7.3) id NAA05468 for corrado-l-outgoing; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 13:51:00 -0800 (PST) Received: from utrcgw.utc.com (utrcgw.utc.com [192.65.177.2]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.7.5/8.7.3) with SMTP id NAA05389 for ; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 13:47:25 -0800 (PST) Received: from decnet-mail (S31207@MOTHER) by utrcgw.utc.com (PMDF #2906 ) id <01I316GNC9AO002EFZ@utrcgw.utc.com>; Mon, 1 Apr 1996 15:52:24 EST Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 15:52:24 -0500 (EST) From: Pete Kummer Subject: Re: Changing rear rotors Sender: owner-corrado-l@teleport.com To: corrado-l@teleport.com Reply-To: Pete Kummer Message-Id: <01I316GNCIXU002EFZ@utrcgw.utc.com> X-Envelope-To: JAN@FSHPP1 X-Vms-To: @CORRADO Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Precedence: bulk Status: RO >Hi, > I've got a '90 G60 that needs new pads and rotors in the rear. My >question is: How do you get the rear rotors off? Is the grease cap the only >thing holding it in place? Or do I need to take some bearings out to get to the >rotor? I didn't think so originally until I spoke with someone who started >talking about pressing bearings out, etc.. Which of course got me concerned. >I've also looked at the FAQs and didn't see anything specific to this issue. >Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, > >Mike >michaeln@ngc.com Remove the grease cap with a screwdriver & hammer. Be careful not to bend it. You will then see a large nut with a cottor pin. remove the pin and then the nut. I was able to spin it out by hand. Then the outer bearing will come out. Next, pull the rotor off. It may take a good yank. On the backside of the rotor, you will see the bearing seal which must be removed to remove the inner bearing. Use whatever means neccassary to remove the seal (destructive). You will have to replace these seals anyway. To reinstall the seal, I banged it in with a block of wood and a hammer. It worked. Reassemble everything else, and tighten the nut in the stubaxle, then loosen it so there is so play in the washer behind it. cotter it, and knock on the grease cap (do not dent). BTW, I have a '90 G60, and I just replace my rear brakes a month ago. This was at 75,000mi! the first time! And, there was plenty of metal on the rotor that I just had them cut. What condition are yours in? If you have other questions let me know. Pete Kummer s31207%mother@utrcgw.utc.com ============================================================================= Subject: Your Page and "V" files Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 16:55:17 EDT From: EStutzkesr@aol.com To: jan@lipari.usc.edu Jan, You saved my butt-I've done many, many front disc brake jobs but the 94' Jetta rear discs drove me nuts until I went into the V files technical area and got the info I needed. Lisele Part # 25080 4-Wheel Disc Brake Caliper Tool works with a slight modification. The pins are in the right spot but will not fit because the piston slots are "V" shaped. With a flat square edged file and the tool in a vise carefully file the pins into a V shape. Do it until it will fit. Trial and error. The pins will actually look like a V with a flat bottom. You also can get away with not removing the emergency brake cable. I've got a ground up restored '68 Cabriolet, 88,94,and 97 Jetta too. Your info page is the best. Thanks again, Eric