Boston Wine Expo 2000
Lustau Light Manzanilla Solera Reserva
"Papirusa" NV -- Light yellow color.
Very expressive, sharply defined aromas of nuts and a slight hint of
the ocean. Very light in the mouth and absolutely dry, with walnuts,
hay, and a slightly salty aftertaste. It apears that the wine could
use a little more acidity, but this was served too warm and the
acidity may be more apparent at cooler temperatures.
Lustau Puerto Fino NV -- Slightly darker yellow than the Manzanilla, but
still quite light and bone dry. The nose is shy at first,
particularly in comparison to the Manzanilla, but later perks up with
some nutty and herbal notes. Tangy in the mouth, with some citrus
flavors and a hint of dustiness added to the nuts. A long finish
with good acidity firming up the walnut and lemon flavors.
Lustau Dry Amontillado "San Bartholome"
NV -- This is part of the "Grand
Reserva Series." Copper colored, with a smooth nose of walnuts,
caramel and coffee. Much rounder thant the Fino or Manzanilla, with
generous coffee and walnut flavors layered on top of a little citrus
fruit. Long, satisfying finish, with more of the same flavors.
Lustau Dry Amontillado Solera Reserva "Los
Arcos" NV -- Light copper color.
Unyielding nose, with only alcohol coming through. Not much on the
palate, either. Even though this is labeled "dry," it seems very
slightly sweet, with some nutty flavors, and a little fruit on the
finish. I've had this wine several times before, and it has always
shown much better. A bad bottle?
Lustau Florido Amontillado (Almacenista)
NV -- Light copper color, with a bit of
a haze. Incisive aromas, with piercing notes of walnut and smooth
roasted coffee. Light and elegant in the mouth, but deceptively
powerful, with more nut and coffee flavors leading to a long,
Lustau Palo Cortado Solera Reserva
"Peninsula" NV -- Clear, bright copper
color. Coffee, nut and toast aromas spring up out of the glass. The
nose hints at a slight sweetness, and seems rounder and less sharp
than the wines listed above. Full and rich flavors of coffee, toffee
and even a hint of primary fruit. Finishes well, but with less
acidity than I might have expected.
Lustau Oloroso "Emperatriz Eugenia"
NV -- Dark copper color, verging on
brown. Sweet toffee aroma, with a small whiff of ethyl acetate. Any
minor misgivings about the volatile nose disappear when you taste
this wine, though. Luxuriously smooth and rich mouthfeel, with
intense nut, toffee and coffee flavors. The underlying acidity comes
out on the finish, keeping everything in line.
Lustau East India Solera Reserva
NV -- This is a Cream Sherry, made with
28% Pedro Ximinez for sweetness. This wine has a dark brownish
color, with aromas of toffee, cocoa, nuts and coffee. Definitely
sweet, with flavors of raisins added to the toffee, coffee and nuts.
Very long, intense aftertaste of more raisins, coffee and nuts. Not
as oxidized as I might have expected, very powerful and
well-balanced. One of the world's greatest values in sweet fortified
Lustau Muscat Superior Solera Reserva
"Emilin" NV -- A rich, thick unctuous
wine. You can't drink too much of this at one time, as it's just too
powerful and syrupy. However, a little makes a great dessert. Dark
brown color. Great aromas, mixing the Sherry aromas of toffee,
coffee and toast with the floral orange-blossom notes of Muscat and a
bit of spice-cake. Very thick and sweet in the mouth. Intense
caramel, toffee, spice and orange peel flavors lead to a long, rich
finish. Just barely enough acidity to keep from being cloying.
Another great value in sweet fortified wine.
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Copyright 2000 Marcel Lachenmann. All rights reserved.