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This is a CS shell jacket, which was made using a Homespun Patterns CS Shell
pattern in size 48. This is an example of what can be termed a commutation jacket, a term for a process used during
the early period of the war when the government issue could not keep up with supply requirements and individuals were provided
a stipend to furnish their own garments. Homespun Patterns refers to this as a private purchase jacket, which would
be exactly what the name implies: a non-standard issue shell bought and paid for by the individual and manufactured
by a private tailoring firm rather than a depot issue.
The jacket shown is made from Family Heirloom Weavers
Weathered Brown on Brown jeans cloth, with FHW osnaberg used for body lining and FHW nankeen for sleeve lining. Jacket
is a six piece body, dip, or point, at back, one piece sleeves, two interior pockets and an eight button front secured
with 7/8" plain domed two piece brass repro buttons. FHW logwood dyed cotton thread used for top stitching jacket perimeter
and collar. Tan cotton thread used for hand-sewn buttonholes. A variety of natural colored cotton threads were
used in sewing the osnaberg lining and attaching it to the jacket body. As with all jackets, unseen seams are machine
sewn, with all visible seams hand sewn or overcast. Very strong material, tight weaves. Looks great and should
wear a long, long time. Nice jacket.
This particular garment measures at a 46-48" chest; 46-48" waist; top
of collar to tip of back is 23-1/2", sleeves measure 24" from cuff to top of sleeve at shoulder.
We are offering these Commutation/Private Purchase jackets at a base price of $150.00 plus $6.50 shipping.
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Front view of completed jacket.
CS commutation or private purchase jacket cut from a Homespun pattern and using FHW Weathered Brn/Brn jeans cloth, FHW
osnaberg body lining and FHW nankeen for sleeve lining. Jeans cloth is tightly woven and strong. Looks
great and should wear like armor. Completed jacket will have issue 'Block I' buttons.
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Rear view of same. Note dip/point at jacket rear. Unseen seams are all machine sewn. Visible seams,
buttonholes and topstitching done by hand.
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View showing collar detail, hand sewn logwood/cotton thread topstitching and tan cotton hand sewn buttonholes as well
as domed, plain buttons (eight ea).
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View of jacket interior showing one of two pockets, interfacing and osnaberg lining.
Inside view of jacket showing osnaberg lining, pocket, armseye and basic configuration of interlining.
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Close view of fabric and buttonholes.
Close view of fabric and buttonholes. Fabric, although brown, has an almost gray tint to it. Buttonholes,
done in waxed cotton thread. Topstitching, which is visible in this pic, is done in FHW logwood dyed cotton thread.
Dark now...will lighten with exposure. Topstitching is even but somewhat rambling (period correct). And I don't
even indulge in adult beverages. Maybe that is the problem? No...no problem.
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The following disclaimer applies to materials and patterns produced by County Cloth, Inc. as used in some of the garments
we sell.
"Glengary Clothing Depot uses County Cloth, Inc. patterns, fabrics and/or kits. Use of County
Cloth patterns, fabrics and kits carries with it neither specific nor implied endorsement by County Cloth, Inc.
or Chas. R. Childs."
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