2006

This is my third trip to Gombe National Park in a period of four years. There have been many changes both in Gombe itself and in my perspectives of it. My first travels to Africa were more like a quest. My first trip I traveled alone and struggled through cultural shock, amazement and wonder. Subsequent travels even though easier, brought about their own challenges.

At first, during hikes, I could not look three feet in front of me. Too worried about where I was going! Later trips I would concentrate on flora, the land, lake and insects.

Some of asked me why I only have been to Gombe and not expand to other places. It is one of those things I cannot explain, I just have to show, and even then it is a personal experience that even though another is there with me, might not share in the same things. Which is all right. People, being unique beings have a different slant on things and that’s what makes their experience close to them and enriches the experiences of others.

On this trip, I brought my brother along. With him, was a whole different way to experience Gombe, and I thank him for that.

On this trip I had the chance as I’ll explain later to experience much more than chimpanzees. I was able to get a more comprehensive view of what Gombe looks and feels. The animals and plants I observed were of course are only a small part of what is there; this only means, I have to go back again, to see more!

The trip started off like the others. My brother and I caught a research boat from TACARE (a project of the Jane Goodall Institute, to address poverty and support sustainable livelihoods in villages around Lake Tanganyika). There seemed to be nothing unusual about the trip, until about twenty minutes into it. I forgot to mention one thing. Every year I have gone to Gombe, the sky was absolutely clear. Not this trip. It seemed unseasonably cold (well cold for near equatorial Africa anyway). Storm clouds were brewing! Off in the distance I saw a dark line extending from a very dark cloud to the surface of the lake. Getting a little closer, I saw two and they were twisting and turning over each other. It didn’t stop there. At one time I counted four very huge and ominous looking water spouts. They seemed to follow us up the lake. So close that even the pilot of the boat seemed to show an expression of concern. I can only imagine that this must be a common occurrence for anyone on the lake, but it will live in my brother’s and my memory.

Arriving at the camp I was greeted by people of past trips and by others new to me. They greeted my brother as well. The manager of the park said to my brother, “Welcome you are our guest, but Mr. Eric you are family”. Talk about a lesson in humility!

It was a very joyous reunion. I felt I was home again. The same Park Attendant, as well as many of the native researchers I had grown to know over previous trips. And one little guy I was introduced to, who had a job that his older brother had before him; the very important job of keeping the grounds and guest cabins in order.

We arrived that day, about noon. Everyone agreed we would start the safari the next morning. I was ready to go that day, how little I remembered of the hikes into the forest.

First day; my brother asked,” Eric, what are we in for?” How can you tell someone that they would be tested for every once of energy they had. He would later say, “That is more than any forced march I was made to do in the Service.

Our guide of about 30 years of age (my brother 53 and I, 49) would take the hardest route. I know all too well it was Linda Ridge. Linda extends directly east of Dr. Goodall’s research house. It is the steepest of all of the trails. I suspect it is the one that the guides take you on first, to see what you are made of! No chimpanzee observations that day…it was a four hour excursion into some of the hardest terrain a tourist experiences at Gombe. I remember previous trips up the ridge only to see the chimpanzees back down close to the beach, after the hike!

I would later tell the guide that perhaps we needed to soften up a bit and take the Kikombe route. Kikombe is a much easier and of less dramatics in elevation.

To my surprise, the chimpanzees of Gombe think the Kikombe route is much preferable too! Well you have to take into account the route follows a stream and the most beautiful and coolest waterfall you have ever seen in the park. It was this route that we would take for the next three days and would have wonderful experiences to last a life time.

The foliage of Gombe seemed strangely greener then I remembered it. Blossoms of all types were in bloom. It was almost as if I were experiencing the wet season, I have never experienced this quite like before. But strange too, the chimpanzees and baboons were not as numerous in abundance as previous times. I remember my first trip; chimpanzees were in groups of no less than four to a maximum of nine. Baboons were everywhere. This trip I saw chimpanzees at the maximum of a pair or by themselves. Baboons no longer lined the beach. I must imagine that this was due to the dry season as well as new construction of a hostel at the park.

Perhaps it was a blessing. After all, I had just taken a class on aquatic macro-invertebrates; I had brought with me a new macro lens for the camera and a small aquarium net to see what I could find. I was not disappointed. I spent a peaceful amount of time at two streams in Gombe: Rutanga and Kikombe. I was not disappointed! There were a variety of nymphs: caddis flies, dragonflies, mayflies and stone flies. And by gosh even a frog! I could have spent a lot more time at Rutanga stream. I will spend even more time there when I go back.

The chimpanzees I will remember in quite more detail this time. I saw only six: Titan, Tarzan, Flirt, Faustino, Gimli and Gaia. But I would see them in much more detail than any chimpanzees before, other than Fifi and Furaha.

Titan and Tarzan spent a lot of time at the Kikombe Stream. They seemed to enjoy watching us, from the lofts of huge palm trees, as we did of them. One day they were sitting in trees just above the stream, and were oblivious to anything around them. I enjoyed being able to sit and film them without any pressure; I could have stayed there for hours, and would have, if I were alone ( which is not permitted).

I cannot help wonder what will become of this place. New construction is going on in Gombe. They now have solar panels which light up the nights of Gombe for a few hours and bring them the internet and email. I remember only two to four years ago, when I would have to read by lantern light. What a time that was. I could remember reading, wonderful books by lantern in Jane’s research house the first year I was there. No one at the house I would see for four days. Out in the lake I would see fisherman by night shining their lanterns in the moonlight.

until next time………….

Eric
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