Home
Construction
FAQ
Links
Zephyrs
About

Joel's Zephyr site

Frequently Asked Questions

How well does it sail?  How does it compare to the Melonseed?
The Zephyr sails great.  It's fast and stable, and it will plane in winds over 15 mph. It's an ideal boat to learn to sail on, and it's not  difficult to build.  The sprit sail gives the boat a low center of effort compared to other similar boats.  The result is that the Zephyr is astonishingly well behaved in strong winds.  I've had the boat out in winds gusting to 25 mph, and the boat flies along without ever coming close to capsizing.  The sail, being relatively short and wide, quickly spills air when it begins to heel over.  The boat sails upright without much heel, and sails very fast.  With a good wind, I average about 5.5 to 6.5 knots, sometimes topping 7 knots.  I sailed Lasers in my younger days. I'd say that in light air, the Zephyr would be slightly faster. In medium air, the Laser would tiptoe ahead. But in heavy air, the Zephyr sailer would be comfortably sailing while the Laser sailer would be doing all he could not to capsize.  The Zephyr also comes with a comfortable back rest (you usually sit inside on the floor with your back against the combing), and a comfortable rowing seat.  The boat rows easily, although the rowing seat is up a little high, being located on top of the centerboard trunk.  In rough weather, you will get wet. Waves of about 2' or more tend to throw spray into the air when the bow strikes them.  I've never had a wave come over the deck, but I've gotten a bit wet from the spray. I always wear rain gear and bring along a bailing bucket and a big sponge.  I use the sponge a lot.  In good weather (up to 15 knots of wind) the boat stays dry.  It's easy to get on and off the trailer, weighing only about 150 lbs.  The boat is simple to rig.  I keep my sail permanently lashed to the mast. I roll it around the mast for storage. To rig it, I unroll the sail, tie on the sprit pole, pick up the mast and insert it into the boat, and attach the boom.  I can be in the water in under 5 minutes.  The rudder stays on the boat all the time.
 
The Zephyr is nearly identical to the Melonseed in size and sailing characteristics. Google "Melonseed Sailboat" for more info.  You can build a Zephyr for about 1/4 to 1/5 the price of buying a Melonseed.  Mine ended up costing about $2000 including custom built sail, trailer, some tools, and all top grade materials and took 4 months of evenings and weekends to build.

cockpit.JPG
Does the Zephyr carry one passenger or two?
Short answer: She carries 1 1/2.  Long answer: The cockpit deck opening measures 6' long by 3' wide. The mid bulkhead divides the cockpit area into two halves about 3' square, which I'll call the forward and aft cockpit.  The centerboard trunk (which also doubles as a rowing seat) divides the forward cockpit in half giving you two spaces about 13" x 3' on either side of it.  The tiller protrudes about 6" into the aft cockpit. The end result of all this is: The aft cockpit has plenty of room for one adult, regardless of size, with plenty of cargo space in the forward cockpit. The aft cockpit could carry two people, if they were small enough to fit in a 3' x 2 1/2' space. It's certainly possible to sit on the side decks. In fact, some always do. I do too, but only when it's real windy.  Sitting on the side decks increases the risk of capsizing or falling overboard, so I prefer to sit inside, using the cockpit coamings as a comfortable backrest. The boat could carry two with one person sitting in the aft cockpit and the second sitting on the side deck of the forward cockpit or maybe on the rowing seat, BUT the person in front would have to be nimble. When tacking, he would have to scramble over or around the centerboard trunk and under the boom. A kid could do it but I couldn't.  I'm a big guy at 6' tall & 290 lbs, so I consider my Zephyr a one-man boat.  My friend Larry and his wife sail together on his Zephyr.  She is small enough to sit alongside the centerboard trunk, on the floor facing forward. Their combined total weight equals mine.  Devlin lists the max load carrying ability of the Zephyr at 425 pounds. She handles 290 pounds quite well. Two full sized adults & some gear could approach the 425 pound max load, which could be a problem if coupled with high wind or chop.
Did you find the plans adequate? Were any of the shapes full size, or did you loft all the panels yourself.
The plans consist of 4 sheets measuring 24" x 36".  They are drawn at 1/8 scale.  Sheet 1 is the study plan, which Devlin also sells seperately.  It shows the completed boat along with the sail dimensions.  Sheet 2 shows plan and side views of the boat plus the details for the mast, boom, tiller, rudder, and centerboard.  Sheet 3 shows the detailed cross sections for the centerboard trunk, deck-to-sheerclamp joint, keel-to-skeg attachment, cockpit coaming attachment, and fiberglass lamination details. Sheet 4 shows fully dimensioned drawings of all the bulkheads, bottom panel, side panel, deck, frames, and centerboard trunk.  All dimensions are in feet and inches.  Also included are a list of materials, a diagram showing how to layout the pieces on the plywood, a 28 page building instruction booklet on stitch and glue construction, and a list of sources for materials.
 
None of the shapes are drawn full size, nor do they need to be.  Using the dimensions on the plans, the parts are drawn full size on the plywood and cut out.  Most all of the shapes are simple, straight lines or simple curves. Curvey shapes like the rudder have a 3" grid drawn over them on the plans so that you can transfer the curves to the plywood.
 
Devlin also sells a book on stitch-and-glue boatbuilding and Joel Mill, who works for Devlin, has a very useful website at http://boatbuilder.org which was my primary source of information.
How much does it cost to build?
I spent roughly $2000.  Other builders that I have spoken with tell me they spent around $3000, and one builder spent over $4000.  Naturally, the cost depends on a number of factors. Here is a list of the materials I used, the approximate cost in 2006, and where I purchased them.

Item
Cost
Where purchased
22 yds 6oz fiberglass cloth, 5 gal epoxy, fairing compound, pumps, freight
$425
USComposites.com
Douglas fir for mast, coamings, tiller, poles, seat
$200
Dunn Lumber, Everett WA
Meranti marine Plywood BS1088 5 sheets @ 1/4" 1 sheet @1/2"
$300
Midway Plywood, Lynnwood WA
Interlux brightside paint and epoxy barrier-kote primer, thinner
$150
boaters world
Fittings (cleats, oarlocks, rope, padeyes, ss screws, blocks, pintles, gudgeons)
$150
duckworksbbs.com, boaters world, home depot
Trailer
$300
Sail
$300
Other misc items
$200
Various

How long did it take to build?
4 months of evenings and weekends
 
Did you make any modifications to the boat?
  • I increased the size of the rudder by 20%
  • I omitted the bow stem.
  • I used a sprit pole, attached with a snotter, for the boom.
  • I sealed the top of the centerboard trunk and permanently attached the seat.
  • I trimmed some excess material from the center of the center bulkhead (where it attaches to the back of the rowing seat).
  • Made rudder from 3/4" ply instead of 1/2" ply.
  • If you sail in cold water or away from help, I strongly suggest adding plenty of flotation to the bow and stern compartments. Without it, the boat will still float if capsized or swamped, but only an inch or two above water and will be near impossible to bail and self rescue. Foam would be best, but quarter-turn or screw-in inspection port hatches in place of the cutouts in the fore and aft bulkheads would work great for creating flotation chambers while still providing access and storage space, but you would need to substitute drain plugs for drain holes in the bulkheads to keep the compartments as air-tight as possible.
 
Did you find any errors on the plans?
  • Page 3: 1 x 3 log block should be 1 x 2 1/4
  • Page 4: Mid Bulkhead #2. Dimension to seat top should be 1' 1 1/2"
  • Page 4: Deck plan; 2' 4 3/8" dimension should be 3' 4 3/8"
  • Page 2: Bottom of mast; 2' 2 1/2" taper should be 1' 2 1/2"
  • Page 2: Lead required for a 3/4" centerboard is 16 lbs
  • Oars: oarlocks should be 3 1/2" high and located directly over the center bulkhead
  • Rudder and centerboard should be 3/4" thick, not 1/2"

Do you find this site helpful?