Before leaving I read some great
travel notes from Slow Travel. One that influenced me a great deal was an article written by a Slow Traveler (AnnieNC)
titled "My Lessor Known-Churches in Venice." Her article really put these beautiful and unassuming churches
on my radar and influenced me not only to visit them but to take the time to walk inside and explore their
wonderful art and learn about their historical background.
Since returning from Venice I have been reading and learning about these
marvelous churches and shrines in more detail from AnnieNC's Blog, "Churches in Venice". Her detailed descriptions, historical facts and personal
insights of the many churches in Venice is the "best" resource for anyone interested in learning more about them.
I could never do them justice. I believe that anyone traveling to Venice and are interested in the history of
Venice's many churches and the art housed within them should visit Annie's Blog. When I return to Venice it will be
the one thing that I would definitely review and study before I leave.
I honestly didn't expect to visit so many churches during my visit to
Venice, but I found that I really enjoyed it. I found them architecturally interesting and full of history and
art. And truth be told, I also found them very peaceful in a contemplative way.
Being inspired by Annie's Travel note, I
visited several churches during my two week visit. I wanted to highlight a few of the wonderful churches that I was
very fortunate to visit by giving you a very brief description of them and adding my personal insights and thoughts about
my experiences.
I knew that there would be a
long history behind the churches of Venice, but I was really impressed with all the wonderful art that are housed within them.
It seemed that each of the churches that I visited (small or large) had the most amazing pieces of art.
Chorus Pass
I purchased a Chorus Pass (8 Euros) at the first church I came across that charged an entrance
fee. I had learned about this pass from Annie's travel note and I knew that it would be a good investment even if I
wasn't able to visit all the churches covered in the pass during my two week stay. As I entered the church the attendant
will check off the corresponding number of that church on the back of your chorus pass.
There are 16 churches that are covered by the pass: Santa Maria
del Giglio, Museo di Santo Stefano, Santa Maria Formosa, Santa Maria dei Miracoli, San Giovanni Elemosinrio, San Polo, Santa
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, San Giacomo dall'Orio, San Stae, Sant' Alivse, Madonna del' Orto, San Pietro di Castello, Santissimo
Redentore, Santa Maria del Rosario (Gesuati), San Sebastiano, and San Giobbe.
In most of the churches I was given a laminated sheet that allowed me
to read along as I walked around. It was great to read the history and the explanation of the wonderful art,
statues and sculptures housed within them. That was very useful since there was so much history and the art was at time
so overwhelming but in a beautiful and good way!
Here
is a brief report on some of the churches that I visited:
Madonna dell'Orto was built in the 14th century and is located in the district of Cannaregio
which is in the northern most part of the City. After visiting the Rialto market early one
morning I decided to dedicate my day to exploring Cannaregio, so I caught the Vaporetto No. 1 to the train station.
I then reviewed my city map and started walking. This district had a different vibe then San Marco and
Dorsoduro where I was staying. It had a really authentic feel to it and as I explored deeper into the District
the less crowded it became. There were times when I was the only person walking. I found myself a little
lost and asked a local walking his dog for directions to the church. He explained to go straight, over the bridge,
turn right along the canal and it will be on the left. I followed his direction and low and behold I come
across not only the church but the very small campo in front of it.
The Madonna dell' Orto is a lovely Gothic church dedicated to St. Christopher,
patron saint of travelers, to protect the boatmen who brought passengers to the islands in the northern lagoon. It is
a striking at first glance. The front of the church has a high facade with statues of St. Christopher and the Apostles. The
church's dedication changed in the 15th century when it was discovered in the nearby vegaetble garden (orto) a statue of the
Virgin Mary is said to have miraculous powers. It is these stories that put the Madonna dell' Orto on my must see list.
And to be honest, it's location was so hidden in this little corner of Venice. It was very beautiful and although it
took me awhile to find it, I was so happy that I made the effort. Rewards always come to those who work hard.
In front of this beautiful church, I observe three italian
boys practicing their soccer skills. I couldn't resist taking a couple of pictures of the boys, then I made my
way pass them trying not to disturb their practice. Inside one is in awe with masterpieces by Jacopo Tintorettoand Tiziano Vecillio.
Bascillia di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is located in the District of San Polo.
This is a 13th century church with several beautiful pieces of art. The Frari church was another church that I was really
impressed with. When I found it, from the outside I could not even imagine what awaited me inside the exterior.
The first thing I noticed was the very high ceiling and walking through
looking at each piece of art and trying to take in the history and meaning behind them was at times overwhelming to me.
It was very hard for me to absorb everything, but I took my time
going through and reading the explanations. The high altar premiers
Titian's Assumption. The monuments and statues housed in this church is also amazing.
Santa Maria Della Salute- I first spotted the Salute while standing on the Accademia Bridge
on my first day in Venice and was immediately impressed with not only it's location at the edge of the famous Grand Canal
but also for it's distinctive octogonal shape. You can get to the Salute by Vaporetto as there is a Salute stop
right in front of the church just a few short steps to the magnificent entrance. My apartment was actually only a 2
minute walk from the Salute very near to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. In fact, each day I had the pleasure of listening
to the wonderful sounds of the Salute bells ringing, like it was calling out to me or maybe reminding me of how very fortunate
I was at this moment.
Here's what I wrote in my blog about my
amazing experience on my first visit to attend mass and light a few candles.
The Venetians built this church during the
time of the 1630 plague that killed 46,000 residents. The Venetian government built the Salute Church to honor
the Virgin Mary of Good Health for supposedly ridding the City of the deadly plague.
I was very fortunate to be in Venice on November 21 when the traditional La
Salute Festival takes place. On this day a temporary bridge is built across the Grand Canal to the Salute to allow
local Venetians to walk across the canal to pay their respects to the Virgin Mary. Even though I didn't need to,
I walked over the bridge and back just because I wanted the experience of crossing the specifically but temporarily built
Pontoon bridge and do what other venetians did on the special day.
Although I had already visited the Salute Church earlier in the week,
I had to visit it again on November 21 to share in this historical tradition. It only seem fitting to me
to be attracted to this church dedicated to the Virgin Mary of Health. I lit candles for my sister, the memory of my
parents and for a couple of friends who has family members that were battling with illnesses. I pray and hope
they will completely recover just as my sister did.
"I remember
on my first visit, I went to light a few candles and attend mass. As I finished lighting my candles I decided to take a photo
and a video clip when I heard the church bells begin to ring. I thought it was cool and continued filming. Within seconds
more bells chimed in and the next thing I knew there was this remarkable musical rhythm of bells ringing all around me.
The
Salute is shaped like an octagon and the acoustics are simply amazing. It's like the sounds flowed everywhere. Right then
and there I knew that the Salute Church was going to be one of my favorite churches in Venice. And call it fate or a mere
coincidence but my apartment was located within ear shot of these beautiful bells and only a two minute walk away! It was
awesome!"
I found that out when I attend the annual Maria Salute Fiesta.
I remember standing in the midst of the local Venetians during mass literally feeling all the emotions of this wonderful community
of people. It felt amazing to actually be taking part in this grand tradition that has literally taken
place for centuries. I watched as families crossed over that temporary bridge, from the vaporetto and walking from
the side streets. In the background the beautiful and almost rthymic bells echos in the background. It was really
an amazing visual and auditory experience and one that I will remember for a lifetime.
In the end, I walked away from my experience with a new found fondness
and appreciation for these wonderful churches in Venice. Some of these beautiful churches are located in grand
locations like San Marco Bassilica or the Maria della Salute Church and there are many others that are tucked away in
little out of the way places in the many less traveled to neighborhoods of Venice. But what I have learned on this trip
is that whether they are grand in size or small and hidden somewhere in a small neighborhood I realized that these churches
are important for their history, art, architecture and for what they mean to the people and traditions of Venice.
I have definitely developed a real love affair with the Churches of Venice. I definitely have to thank Slow Traveler,
AnnieNC, for the inspiration.
