Venice Re-discovered

15 Hours to Perfection

Venice Re-Visited
15 Hours to Perfection
Wander, Explore, Discover
Churches in Venice - The Sacred Art
Intimate Campos
Everyday People
Beyond Venice
Ferrara &Treviso
Ravenna
Dolomite Tour
Burano & Torcello
Other Highlights
Food, Prosecco and Gelato!
Bringing Home Venice
Getting There, Around and Back
Conclusions
Photos, Videos & Google Map (s)
Resources Used
About Me

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Prosecco - Venice, Italy

After an uneventful flight from California to Venice, I found myself 15 hours later in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Venice, Italy. After settling into my huge apartment I grab my camera, my Chow Venice book, my map and I head out in search of my first meal and adventure. 

I decide to head back towards the Accademia Bridge to find the Accademia Pizza Restaurant recommended in Chow.  From memory I retrace the path that Irene (my Views on Venice representative) took when escorting me to my apartment. I go over a small bridge, down a narrow alley right by a bar, through an open area (where there is a nice view of the Grand Canal), over another larger bridge, down a calle, pass a café and a couple of scarf shops, turn right, then left  and I’m there.  Sound familiar!  Believe it or not this is how I navigated myself through Venice for most of the trip.  It’s also probably why I ended up lost a few times.  What can I say!  I’m terrible with street names.  But what the heck, one of my must do’s on this trip was to explore and get lost.  And I’m proud to say that I managed to accomplish this goal several times during my two week stay here.  But being lost in a City like Venice is like no other experience.  Half the fun was getting myself "unlost." 

So I reach the Accademia Bridge and I still can’t find the restaurant.  Maybe it is on the other side of the Grand Canal and so I decide to climb the high wooden bridge.   Interestingly, the Academia Bridge was originally built in 1932 as a temporary bridge, but it became so popular with the locals that it remained as a permanent bridge.   When I reach the top I stop to gaze over the Grand Canal on both sides.  Although it is not the Charles Bridge and the Grand canal isn’t the Prague Castle all lit up at night, let me assure you that the view and excitement of seeing the Grand Canal in Venice Italy in all it’s glory is just as spectacular.  I immediately spot the Maria della Salute Church and am immediately struck by its grand and roundish architecture.  Awesome view!

Today’s weather was gorgeous and I stand here for a long, long while watching the Vaporettos and little small boats and gondolas make their way towards, under and pass the bridge.  A temporary distraction to the fact that I really need to get some food in me since I had nothing to eat on the entire plane ride over here.  I was ready for some authentic Italian pizza and I can't find the Accademia Pizza restaurant.  I walk down the bridge and head to the right where I crash into what looks to be one of the famous Campos I had read about before my trip.  I refer to my map and discover that I stumbled upon Campo San Stefano.  Campo San Stefano bears the name of Francesco Morosini (1618-92), yet surprisingly it doesn't have a statue of Morosini.  In the center of this beautiful campo (2nd largest in San Marco), there is a dominating statue of Nicolo Tommaseo (1802-74).  This actually looks like a very nice campo and so I make a mental note to re-visit here later during my stay (when I'm not so pre-occupied with food).

I check my book to review the directions again and push on with my quest to find the Accademia Pizza restaurant.  I decide to head back to the bridge.  Up and over with a momentary pause (again) at the top for another look at the canal.  The view is just far to beautiful for me to walk by without stopping to admire it. 

I’m back to where I started again.  This time, I make my way to the right of the bridge.  No Accademia Pizza.  I notice a flow of people walking down this alley just pass the entrance to the Accademia Museum.  I convince myself that they must be going somewhere interesting and so I follow right behind them.  I approach a canal and observe this moored boat with a canopy over it filled with fresh fruit and vegetables.  Could it be?  I checked my map and realize that I am standing near Rio De San Barnaba (still in the Dorsoduro district) near the Ponte dei Pugni.  I realize that this is that famous vegetable barge that was described in Ruth Edenbaum's very well written  "200 list of things to do in Venice" Slow Travel Note.  I was so excited to find it and I spend the next few minutes taking photos and watching the vendors interact with a couple of local customers.  Watching all that food (even uncooked veggies), I suddenly remember my quest to find my first meal.  And so I decide to continue to follow the flow of people up and over a small bridge and through an alley.  Suddenly I come across another campo.  I just knew that it was Campo San Barnaba.  And it was.   It's a little smaller than Campo San Stefano but still quite quaint.  For you movie trivia fans, this is where they filmed that famous scene in the movie, Indiana Jones where Indy emerges from a secrete underground passage.  Also featured in the movie is the Church of San Barnaba for the Library scene.  I decide to hang around a bit to snap a few pictures as I remember the scenes in the movie.  Okay, enough movie trivia.  I decide to head back to the Accademia Bridge and make another attempt to locate the restaurant.   

 

I'm here at the bridge and I still can't find the restaurant.  I decide to head back to the other side of the bridge (still pausing at the top to take another look at the fabulous view of the Grand Canal).  Now I’m really starving so I walk down the bridge and make a left.  I decide to walk straight down this very wide street towards the Della Gidecca Canal.  I keep walking and soon I stumble upon a church.   I’m immediately intrigued by my new discovery thanks to a great Travel Note, "My Favorite Lessor-Known Churches in Venice", which I read before I left.  The article was written by fellow Slow Traveler (AnnieNC) and in her article she wrote about some of the many wonderful smaller and lessor known churches in Venice.  Remembering her article, I stop to read the plaque in the front and I study the structure.  I discover that I am standing at the doorsteps of the Gesuati o Santa Maria del Rosario.  This is an 18th Century Renaissance church and inside there are famous sculptures by Morlaiter  and beautiful paintings by Tiepolo.  I make a mental note to visit this church in more detail after dinner when I’m not so preoccupied with my growing hunger pangs.  The Della Giudecca Canal is pretty wide but not as busy as the Grand Canal.  I review my map and find out that I am on the Fondamenta Zattere.  This is a rather wide street that runs parallel to the Giudecca canal.  I stand around and become entertained for a few minutes by some of the activity.  One of the great things I discovered is that there are so many wonderful things to see here in Venice and you see them everywhere you turn.  Each corner, each bridge, each building, each canal . . . . you are surprised with something unique and beautiful to absorb and appreciate.  It’s just so great to be here and I am just giddy with happiness!

Next, I look to the left and see a sign that said La Calcina.  It is a restaurant that I remember someone on Slow Travel saying that they enjoyed.  All my reading and research is already paying off!  The light bulb goes off and I practically run over towards the outdoor tables.  This is it, my first dinner in Venice Italy.  I find an outdoor table and settle down to order.  The waiter walks over, greets me and hands me a menu.  As hungry as I was, I decide to order a nice pre-dinner drink!  I request a glass of prosecco.  I had read about this drink before I came and was really anxious to try it.  I look over the menu and within 10 seconds decide upon the sole filet with steamed vegetables.  It’s not the pizza that I had originally planned on for my first night, but I often find that travel sometimes requires adjustments to be made along the way and when you make them you may just be surprised by the experience.   

Soon the waiter brings me my prosecco and a basket of bread which I start to devour.  My prosecco is in a nice wine glass with these bubbles in it, just like champagne.  I took my camera out and take a quick photo.  I just had to record this very momentous occasion.  I put my camera down and take my first sip of what was to be the first of many, many glasses of Prosecco that I will have during my stay.  My first thought, smooth.  My second thought, I love Prosecco.  My third and fourth thoughts, I love Venice.  And I LOVE Italy!

It always amazes me how I can be in California one day and then 15 hours later be sitting at a restaurant drinking Prosecco in Venice, Italy.  It’s really outrageously wonderful when I think about it.  Soon my dinner arrives.  It is a pretty decent size fillet (remember I’m starving at this stage) with steamed vegetables and a very tasty sauce dripped around the plate.  I'm not what people refer to as a "foodie" so I have no idea what kind of sauce it was or how to describe it's flavor.  So from a "non-foodie's" perspective, trust me when I tell you that it was very delicious.   I resist long enough to take a quick photo of it before I dived in.  As I sat there contently enjoying my first meal, the sun started to set and I was treated to the most beautiful sunset! 

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After having had a fabulous meal and enjoying a special moment episode, I can't help but to think that after months of research  planning and preparations, there seems to be such a sense of simplicity to it all.  I make a decision on where I want to go, I learn, I prepare and make arrangements, I travel and voila I’m here!  I’m in Venice Italy, enjoying a great meal, a fabulous glass of prosecco.  And to top it all off there is an absolutely spectacular sunset in full display for me to enjoy.

 

And so 15 hours later here I am . . . my first day in Venice, Italy and it is Pure Perfection!

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