Venice Re-discovered

Other Highlights

Venice Re-Visited
15 Hours to Perfection
Wander, Explore, Discover
Churches in Venice - The Sacred Art
Intimate Campos
Everyday People
Beyond Venice
Ferrara &Treviso
Ravenna
Dolomite Tour
Burano & Torcello
Other Highlights
Food, Prosecco and Gelato!
Bringing Home Venice
Getting There, Around and Back
Conclusions
Photos, Videos & Google Map (s)
Resources Used
About Me

SECRET ITINERARIES TOUR OF THE DOGE'S PALACE:

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After reading so many positive reviews from other Slow Travelers about the famous Secret Itineraries' Tour of the Doge's Palace, I decided that I really wanted to take the tour myself.  This tour will provide me with a deeper exploration of the hidden corners of the palace.  The Doge's Palace (ie., the Palazzo Ducale) is an amazing looking piece of Gothic Architecture and this tour will go beyond the exterior into secret passageways where some of the most powerful leaders  of Venice walked through to get around the Palace.  The tour takes you to some of the administrative offices of the men who ran Venice during the medieval and Renaissance times.  And it will also take us to the very cell where the notorious Giacomo Casanova made his escape in 1775. 

 

As this was a popular tour in Venice it was recommended by other Slow Travel members that I should pre-book this tour before I leave for Venice and so that is what I did. 

 

I used an on-line website called Tickitaly.com,  They confirmed my reservation for Thursday, November 15 and sent me an e-mail with the confirmation voucher of my tour purchase.  Other than my Dolomite Tour to Cortina, this was the only scheduled organized tour that I pre-booked for my visit.  I was very excited.  I printed my voucher before I left and then on the day of my tour I followed the instructions that were printed on the voucher on where to go for my tour group. 

 

On the scheduled day of my tour, I arrived at the Doges Palace entrance which is clearly marked on the side (facing the water) of the Doges Palace.  They had these ropes leading to the entrance with an employee there to direct you to the correct counter.  I presented my voucher to the staff and was given an orange round circle which I was told to stick somewhere visible on my clothing.  This was apparently to indicate which group you belonged to.  I was with the group that spoke English.  There was another group with a different color circle and they spoke Italian.  A girl from Lake Tahoe started chatting with me as we waited for our tour to start.  She was in Venice with her mom for two weeks also.  In two days there were leaving.  She was going to return back to Tahoe but her mom was going to spend another month in London with her sister.  It was kind of fun chatting with her especially because I use to visit Tahoe a lot when I used to live in Sacramento. 

 

Within a few minutes a short Italian lady came to our group and assembled us to one corner of the entrance (there were several other groups being assembled in the same courtyard.  She introduced herself (unfortunately I forgot her name) and began her great and articulate explanation of the great history of Venice and specifically the Doges Palace.  She gave us a brief outline of the itinerary for the tour then proceeded to move us to our first stop. 

 

Next we went up this long stair case and although we were allowed to photograph the well decorated stairwell, this was basically the last time that we were allowed to take photographs because once we entered the palace taking photos were prohibited. She brought us into several rooms of the palace and in each room our tour guide provided us with a fascinating tale of power and intrigue.  At one point we were brought to these jail cells that were so small and depressing looking.  Here came the fascinating stories of Casanova and his escape.  I found the stories so interesting and when I looked around the room and out the windows.  Two things stuck out for me.  First, I would hate to have been imprisoned here and secondly how in the world did Casanova escape.  It really was interesting.  At some point prisoners when for whatever reason had to leave their cells and be transferred elsewhere, there were sections where a prisoner could actually look outside a window and view what was just outside their miserable surroundings --- beautiful Venice.  That must have been torture in and of itself to imagine seeing that gorgeous view through these tiny holes in the walls and know that you were stuck in these dungeons. 

 

After the last part of our tour we were allowed to view the other public rooms at our own leisure.  Just as I was pulling out some Euros to give our guide a tip (another couple was doing the same thing), our great guide was gone in a flash.  It’s too bad because she was so good and I really wanted to give her a nice tip in appreciation for the wonderful tour she gave us.

 

I thought this tour was great and I too would highly recommend it to anyone visiting Venice.  I also agree with the recommendations made by my fellow Slow Travel members that it is best to pre-book your tour before you arrive in Venice.  As low season as November may be, there were several groups on the morning of my tour so I can only imagine how many groups there would be during high season.   Take the tour, it is well worth your time and money!

SAN MARCO CAMPANILE: 

After my Secret Itineary tour the day was so clear and sunny that I decided to go up the St Mark's Campanile Tower.  The views were spectacular:

RIALTO MARKET-DOING ORDINARY THINGS:

Even doing the most ordinary of things while in Italy can be Fun and extraordinary!  I blogged about it recently and thought that it would be a good topic in my trip report.  Since I was staying for two weeks in Venice, I found myself having to do some common everydy things like grocery shopping.  But shopping in Venice Italy is 1000 times different than shopping where I live here in Southern California.  Rather than these big supermarket chains and giant warehouses like Costco, I found more interesting and fun places to find my basic necessities.

 

In Venice, I actually found grocery shopping to be exceptionally fun.  There was a very small little grocery store just across the canal from where my apartment was.  Within a couple of days I stopped in to buy my first bag of groceries.  They consisted of some orange juice, bread and eggs and I needed to buy them so I can make some breakfast for myself in the morning.  There weren’t rows and rows of selection like you see at home, so it made my shopping pretty easy. I asked for six eggs and picked a loaf of bread and then a carton of juice which wasn’t refrigerated.  The bread was so soft and very tasty.

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Later in the week, I found a larger supermarket in Campo Santa Margherita.  Here I bought some laundry soap, some fruit and a few snacks.  While selecting my fruit I was reminded of a rule that I read on Slow Travel about how you are supposed to put on gloves before handling the fruit.  I forgot about that rule and actually picked up an apple.  When I noticed this box of plastic box hanging on a pole next to the fruit, I immediately put the apple in my basket. Since I had touched it with my bare hands I didn’t want to put it back.  A second later a lady next to me picks up a fruit then puts it back down.  I was thinking that she was a tourist who didn’t know about that glove rule!   

Anyway, when I was finally done, I stand in this long line. I was looking at some chips and was deciding if I should get some. These girls in front of me said that the chips I was looking at were very good.  She had six little bags in her basket.  The hot spicy one is good but her favorite was the cheesy one.  Then she whips around and tells me to try some.  She had an open bag in her hand bag.  So I get a couple and give it a try.  And she was right they were very good.  Not salty like the chips here. So to her enthusiasm I finally grab a bag of the cheesy ones. Finally after a few minutes we get to the cash register. I ask for a plastic bag since I forgot to bring my own. The cashier then gives me a little chocolate candy.  I looked puzzled and he explained that the treat was because we had to wait so long in line.  Me and the lady behind me smiled and said thank you.  This just goes to show how different shopping can be here in Italy.  I wait in long lines frequently here at home and not once am I given a treat by the cashier.  The only thing I get is Paper or Plastic?

 

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Now, if you really want some fun and action go to the Rialto Market early in the morning.  It is located right at the Rialto Vaporetto stop.  It is an open market where vendors sell fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables to both the local residents and tourists.  The activity is just bubbling with all kinds of activities and exciting verbal exchanges. I visited here at least twice to get some nice fruit but mainly for the entertainment.  It was so much fun observing the interactions between the vendors and the customers.  I loved it.  

As you can see the mere ordinary act of “grocery shopping” here in Venice Italy can be an extraordinarily delightful and fun activity.  So take a break from your sightseeing of must see things to see and go do something ordinary for a change.  You’ll be surprised at how much fun ordinary can be here in Italy.   

HIGH WATERS "ACQUA ALTA":

Right before I left I had read something on an internet site that during the months of November and December the City of Venice was very prone to a condition called “Acqua Alta” or “High Waters”.  

Since I had read that High Waters in Venice can range anywhere from very mild to very bad (2 feet or higher), I wanted to find out a bit more on what I should expect if I should experience it during my stay.  I found a couple of youtube videos where people were in Venice during high water and was wading through it with their pants rolled up.  Some people had plastic bags or knee high rubber boots.  It was incredible to watch and for one fleeting moment gave me some reason for concern.  In the end, I decided not to worry about the high waters until I got there.  I figured if it happens, it happens and I’ll take it as just part of my Venice experience. 

 

The first week and a half was smooth sailing.  Even on the two days that it drizzled, I had no encounters with any High water.  Maybe I would be lucky and not have to experience it.    One morning while I was nice and warm in my bed fast asleep, I was awakened by this loud wailing siren.  I woke up a little and thought what the heck is that siren?  It wailed for a couple more times before it finally stopped. Being the heavy sleeper that I am I decided that I would just ignore it and go right back to sleep. And I did.    

 

Later that morning, I woke up later than usual and went about my normal morning routine.  But for some reason  something felt different.  There is a small canal on one side of the apartment and every morning I always hear the sounds of the canal water splashing against the walls, but it was almost dead silence.  I ignored my instincts and grabbed my belongings and headed out for my usual sightseeing adventure.  As I approached the canal I immediately noticed that the boats that are normally anchored in the small canal was at the level of the street I was walking on.  And then as I got closer to the canal I saw that the water level was so high that it had spilled over onto the street flooding this one corner just past the bridge on the route to the Accademia bridge.  It finally hit me that I was experiencing an actual “high water” day in Venice!  I have to be honest and say that I was a little freaked out at first. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing.  I walked over the bridge and couldn’t go much further because of all the water. 

The shop owner where I bought some of my groceries was sweeping some water out of his shop.  There was one guy that was standing in front of me and we were both sort of mesmerized by the whole experience.  We watched as one person after the other navigated this one patch of high water.  Most of the people had no boots and were tip toeing across the flooded section.  They weren’t very successful in keeping dry.  It was also very slippery and several people slipped a little and one lady actually fell.  I felt so bad for her that I ran over to see if she needed help.  She was fine but got really wet.  Luckily she didn’t drop or get her nice SLR Digital camera wet.  I would have done the same thing.  I stood there for at least 35-40 mintues just watching and trying to decide how I was going to get over this patch.  However, once that lady slipped and fell, I decided that I was going to find another way to get out of here.  I turned around and crossed this wooden section and made my way over to the Salute Vaporetto stop hoping that it would be dry.  And it was.  For some unknown reason I really wanted to see San Marco in “high water” just like I had watched on those Youtube videos.  I know, it sounds nuts but it was something I actually wanted to see for myself live and in person. 

Within a few minutes the Vaporetto arrives and I hop on.  The street from the Vaporetto stop to San Marco was not so bad and I make my way to the piazza.  I see that the city workers have already put up the platforms that will serve as walkways for tourists to get to the Main part of the Piazza and to the San Mark’s Bassilica.  I saw the gondolas bobbing up and down and the water splashing onto the street and every now and then inching close to my shoes. When I first saw the high waters this morning I was a little freaked out but once I got over it I actually found the whole experience exciting.  There were these vendors that were selling these long yellow boots (throw aways).  Although I didn’t need them, I decided to purchase a pair of those yellow boots just on the off chance that I might have some high water on my departure day. 

 

Some tourists were already wearing their boots and follicking in the middle of San Marco Square.  I also observed a few city workers that were having to pull carts of goods across the flooded square with a few pigeons floating along the water next to them.  A very unique looking scene.  And then it seems like every two minutes I would hear the Italian police blowing their whistles at the tourist to move them along the walk ways.  Many of them stopped in the middle of the walkway so they could take a photo of the Bassilica.  Who could blame them, it’s incredibly beautiful.  I walked around a bit more, took tons of photos and video clips of all the interesting high water scenes so I could create my own youtube version of Venice in High Waters!   

 

If you have plans to visit Venice during the months of November and December, don’t stress or worry about the high waters.  If you get wet, so what.  It’s only water.  Just view it as part of your Venice experience and have fun.  After all, just think of the stories you could tell about your unique experience. 

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM

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"Peggy Guggenheim used to say that it was her duty to protect the art of her own time.  She dedicated half of her life to this mission, as well as to the creation of the museum in Venice which still carries her name." --by Philip Rylands
 
On this trip I decided to visit the Peggy G. museum which is famous for it’s modern art collection.  I really enjoy looking at all types of art and that includes some modern ones.  I had been to the Accademia Museum once before but have never been to the Peggy G. museum, so on this trip I decided to pay a visit.   One rainey morning I decided that it would be a good day to finally visit the Peggy G. museum and so I walk the down the canal (2 minute walk) to the entrance of the museum.  My apartment was so close.  I pick up the Museum book that they were selling (can’t remember the cost) and go through each room which was organized by artist. 

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I arrived at the museum as soon as it opened when there was only a handful of people.  I took each room and took my time studying each piece.  Each room was painted in white with hard wood floors. It really help to have enough spacing between each piece and it helped when studying them.  It was fantastic seeing these wonderful. There are brief descriptions posted next to each piece but I did find having the souvenir book with me when going through the rooms very useful.  There are several photos of Peggy posted throughout the museum and it is interesting to read them as you when through because of the fact they the museum was once her home. 
 
At the end of my visit it started to get really crowded and so it was nice to finish just as they were starting to overcome the museum.

I like Modern Art and found the museum delightful filled with several beautiful pieces.  Here are my favorites:

 

Pablo Picasso "The Poet"  & "On the Beach"

Jean Metzinger "At the CycleRace Track"

Gino Severini "Sea=Dancer"

Rene Magrette "Empire of Light"

Vasily Kandinsky "White Cross"

 

If you are a fan of modern art don’t miss the Peggy G museum.  My only recommendation is that you make plans to get there very early before it gets too crowded

 
For more information, go to the Peggy Guggeheim website.

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