After reading about the mosaics in the small town of Ravenna on the Slow Travel Board I decided that I wanted to see it.  The town was about a 2-1/2 train ride from Venice.  I also wanted to see the town of Ferrara.  I was trying to focus most of my time in Venice because there was so much to see there so I wanted to limit any time away.  I had several options of possible day trips and the town of Ravenna was high on my list.  I had read and heard about the amazing mosaics that were there and really wanted to see them.  But could I go to Ravenna see the mosaics and then on the way back stop over in Ferrara.  I think not.  I would have to choose between the two. 

I posted my question on Slow Travel and received some very helpful advice.  Most recommended seeing the Mosaics in Ravenna over Ferrara.  They advised that I would not be able to see both towns in one day.  First, I wouldn’t have the time and secondly it wouldn’t do the mosaics justice. Shannon suggested that I do an overnight day trip to Ravenna and then on the way back to Venice the next day I could stop for a while in Ferrara since it was a stop on the train ride back to Venice.  I thought that was a brilliant idea.  In fact, I had thought about doing that but I wasn’t sure if I should invest the time in doing it (taking away from Venice).  But the opinions I received from several Slow Travelers is a valued one and I decided that I would do that.  I even got a great hotel recommendation and a great restaurant recommendation for dinner.  Cool. 

On November 19, 2008 I packed a change of clothes in my backpack and took the train to Ravenna. Before I left home, I had printed out the train schedule and stops from Venice to Ravenna, Ravenna to Ferrara and Ferrara to Venice. I purchased my ticket to Ravenna that morning and hopped o the train.  It was a really pleasant ride all the way to Ravenna. The train wasn’t even that crowded. 

Once I arrived in Ravenna, I exited the train station reviewed my map and walked straight up the main street to Piazza Pappalo. From the Piazza I was a little lost. I asked around but nobody seemed to know where the hotel Bryon was.  I finally remembered that I have a phone and I called the hotel. They said that they are right next to the Piazza just off the pedestrian zone.  So I walked a little further up the street, turned right and I finally spot the hotel.  I go to the registration desk and although it is not yet check-in time the lady checks me in and gives me the key. That was great because now I can freshen up a bit then head out in search for all the mosaics.  I grab my camera bag and little map I got from a fellow Slow traveler that I printed out before I left. On my way, I discover the Tourist office so I walk in and got more information and recommendations from them.  They gave me a bigger map and highlighted the five major mosaic attractions.  They also encouraged me to take the bus to the San Apollinare in Classe Church if I had the time.  I took their map, thanked them and left in search for my first stop, St. Vital.  I was still a little lost and actually walked in to this school for mosaics. I saw some mosaics at the entrance and thought this is where I needed to be.  One of the teachers gave me directions to St. Vitale. It turns out that I was not that far away.  I walk in and pay for the pass that covers all the main attractions.  I walk into the church and was immediately mesmerized. The mosaics are absolutely gorgeous and it literally left me speechless.  They were these beautiful pieces of art from floor to ceiling.  I stood and looked up.  I sat and looked up.  I stood again and looked up.  I could not believe the intricate, masterful, expressive and colorful details of these mosaics.  In my mind, I immediately thanked all the Slow Travelers that had recommended my visit to Ravenna (Colleen, Shannon, Zerlina, Cubbies, JeanneM and Dragonpat).  They were all so right.  I spend about an hour studying the art, reading the description and photographing as many scenes as I can.  I didn’t have a tripod so I had to brace myself against the pillars and then snap several duplicate shots of each section in hopes that at least one of them will come out. 

To get to San Apollinare in Classe I was told to catch the number 4 or 44 bus. I walked back down to the Train Station and caught the next bus (44).  Apparently my timing could not have been better because within minutes, the bus was jam packed with energetic teenagers since school had just been let out.   I actually found the ride to be quite entertaining because of that.  I remember thinking to myself, was I that energetic at that age?  Maybe!  The bus was so full that I couldn’t see what was coming up at the next stop and I was getting worried that I would miss my stop.  Would I recognize this church if I saw it?  Would I be able to make my way to the exit in time before the doors shut and the bus moves on to the next stop? Finally when the bus started to thin out I remember looking over at the bus driver as we arrived at this one stop.  Since I had asked him before entering the bus whether this was the right bus to the church he was very aware of my exit.  I glanced over at him and he motioned with his hands, “palm up “universal for stop”. And then he nodded his head and said something which conveyed to me that he would let me know when I needed to get off.  I smiled and nodded back that I understood.  Soon the bus was nearly empty again.  The bus headed further away from the main city center and I spot a sign that had Church of San Apollinare in Classe written on it. Within minutes I can see far off in the distance a structure that resembled a church.  The bus driver turned and gave me a nod.  We stop just a few yards away from the church and the driver signals to me that this is where I need to exit.  I say Grazie and exit. 

I walk towards the front of the church and pay an entrance fee. There were three workers by the entrance.  I walk in and the church is nearly empty.  It looks exactly like the photo that is in the Travel note written by Pauline, the wonderful founder of Slow Travel. The church at first glance is really remarkable to look at.  There are these pillars that leads up to the main alter.  It is simple in design but with a closer study, you will discover just how much more there is than meets the eye.  The main centerpiece is beautiful mosaics above the main alter.  . . .

Along the sides there are individual mosaic pieces that are so incredible.  I basically take my time and walk around the church studying each piece carefully.  This was my last stop before dinner time and so I really just took my time. 

After the last photo was snapped I bought a couple of postcards and made my way to the bus stop.  I waited for about 10 minutes for the next bus to arrive.  I ask the driver if this bus was going to the train station and when he said yes I hopped on and paid my ticket.  I, of course, remembered to stamp it in the yellow box that is on the bus.  The ride back to town was quite pleasant and I enjoy the time looking around the surrounding areas of Ravenna.  We finally arrive in town and approach the train station where I will exit.  As we come to a stop, two officers board the bus and starts checking everyone’s bus ticket.  It seemed like the one officer made a B-line in my direction and asks to see my stamp.  I was so proud to pull it out and show it to him. The officer gave me a great big smile and patted me on the back of my shoulder and said something a couple a words that I didn’t quite understand.  It was probably something like “good job.”  I was so happy that I learned and heeded all the warnings from the Slow Travelers about making sure to stamp your tickets.  I honestly think that the officer thought that I didn’t have my ticket stamped and so when he saw that I did, he was pleasantly surprised. Whew!  Thank you Slow Travel!

I walk back to my hotel where I freshen up.  I go down to the front desk to ask them for directions to La Gardela Restaurant that Shannon recommended.  It was very close. I just walked down the street on the left and found it.  The restaurant was still closed and after looking at the menu and speaking with another customer that appeared to be waiting to have dinner there too, I figure out that they will not open until 7:00 pm...  I had about two hours to kill, so I walk back to the hotel and get on the internet to blog for a while.  I was a little hungry so I decided to try to find that bar that Shannon recommended.  I walk down towards piazza papolo and find a cute little Merry Go Round where families were gathered so their kids could ride it.  I though how cute, so I stick around to take a few photos.  After a few minutes, I walk around and look in some of the shops that along that pedestrian zone.  As I walk around I spot these bright neon lights.  There is this café/bar located right in the piazza. It had these great looking pastries so I decide to go in and order a prosecco and a pastry . . . well, okay two pastries.  But they were very tiny.  It was so good.  The prosecco was very good too.

I hang out and enjoy watching the activities of the piazza, talking with a couple of interesting locals and just relaxing.  Shannon’s and Cubbies’ recommendation to spend the night was right on!

It’s now 7pm and I walk over to La Gardela.  I walk in and there are already people sitting and eating.  That was fast.  Since I didn’t have a reservation I got to sit were all the non reservation customers were, up against the wall, I think I was the only single female there.  All the other tables were occupied by men.  Oh well.  I look at the menu and pull out the copy of the Slow Travel review that I brought along with me.  As I was reviewing my options, the waiter walks by and recognizes the photo of one of their dishes and so I explain to him that I found out about their restaurant from Slow Travel and this was one of the reviews that I read.  He said that the dish in the review is excellent and that he highly recommended it, so I ordered it but with just the shrimp.  Of course, I also ordered a glass of prosecco too! 

AS I sat there, I observed this Italian guy sitting about two tables down. He had a bottle of wine and went through I think 3 different dishes ending with a big plate of desert.  I was so impressed.  He just looked like he really enjoyed his dinner a lot.  When I was served my meal I discretely took a quick photo of it.  One of the workers who was eating her dinner caught me taking a photo each time.  She smiled so I guess she understood that I’m a simple tourist taking a photo of the fabulous meal that she was about to enjoy!   The meal that was reviewed on Slow travel was so good!  There were so many shrimps and vegetables on the dish and I absolutely enjoyed it.  I finish off my prosecco and pay my bill.  I walked around the piazza a bit more . . . well okay I stop by the café to get one more prosecco.  Then back to the hotel.    

I wake up the next morning really early so I can catch one of the first trains out (stopping in Ferrara).  The breakfast room was not quite ready (I was a few minutes early), but the hotel staff told me that it will be ready shortly (they were going to let me go in before they officially opened, which was so nice of them).  Meanwhile, I decide to ask to use their free internet (located in the back behind the front desk).  I take advantage of the free internet and spend a few minutes posting another entry on my blog. 

I really enjoyed my time here in Ravenna and I am so thankful for the wonderful advice given to me by my fellow Slow Travelers.

Tomorrow I head for the town of Ferrara on my way back "home" to Venice!