My tank is kept cool by a Custom Sea Life 1/4 HP drop-in chiller. According to conventional wisdom, this chiller is undersized for the tank, but it has had no problem keeping the temperature in check, even on very warm days with no central air running. I have done everything I can to mitigate any heat buildup in the tank.  The canopy is open-topped, protected against jumpers by eggcrate panels. I have an IceCap fan at each end of the hood.  I have a fan blowing at the water surface of the sump.

The chiller hangs on brackets under the  counter.  The controller is at the right and the X10 module is on the left.  The X10 module is in-line after the controller. This allows the controller to be powered full time. The temperature on the controller is set a couple of degrees lower than the AquaController, which controls the X10 module.  This gives me some redundancy. I don’t think this could be done with a chiller featuring a built-in controller.

The chiller ended up being a reclamation project. I purchased it used for a decent price (which is part of the reason I ended up with a 1/4 HP unit instead of the 1/3 HP recommended for this size tank). It tested out fine when I received it, but while wrestling it into place in the garage equipment room, I managed to break the line that carries refrigerant to the drop-in coil. The hissing of the escaping coolant was the sound of money escaping into the air.

It turns out that the coolant line, which is covered with a rubberized sheath, is copper tubing, which can only be bent a few times before it fatiques and cracks. The outer copper tubing is actually the coolant return line. The pressurized coolant is carried to the end of the coil by a cocktail-straw sized copper tubing that is threaded through the outer tubing. I removed the rubber sheath and found that the outer tubing was cracked in two places. I took the Dremel tool to it and cut off the tube inside the compressor casing. I also cut through the inner tubing at that spot. I then cut off just the outer casing near the drop-in coil, being careful not to cut the inner tubing. I figured that the smaller tubing must have been threaded into the stainless steel tubing before it was bent into a coil shape. I later confirmed this in a conversation with the guy who used to build the chillers for CSL.

Armed with a Bernzomatic torch, some plumbing solder, and copper tubing from the hardware store, I spliced a new outer tube onto the coil, using a slightly larger size tubing for the splice. I sweat-soldered this together with the torch. The compressor end was a little more tricky because I had to splice both the inner and outer tubing. I threaded the splice tubing on the outer tube and pushed it back to one side. I left about a one inch gap in the outer tubing to give me room to splice the inner tube. I then slid the splice over the gap and soldered that.

I then took the chiller to work, where we have refrigerant and gauges. I was a bit concerned about the splices because I had soldered them, not brazed them as the manufacturer originally did. Some Internet research reassured me that the kind of joints I had soldered would be more than strong enough. Still, it was with no small trepidation that I charged the compressor. There were no leaks, though, and the chiller has been working like a charm ever since. I only wish I had taken pictures during the surgery.

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