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Bowls

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Contact me at wpeirce@verizon.net

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Click on a picture to see a larger image.
 
I revised the website during the Baltimore American Craft Council show. It will be a week or so before I restore it to its fully functional state.

These bowls are cut out with a band saw from a single board.  Sometimes I glue several strips of wood together to form the single board, as in Twisted Striped Vessel 14. I set the band saw table on a slant, allowing me to saw concentric rings with a slanted edge from the same board. The photo below shows the rings for a cherry bowl after they were sawn from an 11" x 11" board. The bottom of the large outer slanted ring is glued to the top of the second smaller ring; I glue all the rings together in a stack, forming the bowl. Then I sand the completed bowl with ten different grades of sandpaper. They take a long time to make. You can read a more detailed description if you scroll down to near the bottom and read "How I Made Symmetrical Mixed Woods Bowl 67."

I learned to make band saw bowls from an article by Peter Petrochko, the grand master of band saw bowls, in Fine Woodworking, March/April 1983, #39.

These bowls will hold dry things like fresh fruit, but I don't recommend filling them with liquids. If you want to use them as salad bowls, tell me; I'll put extra coats of food-safe varnish on the bowl you choose. Don't put them in the dishwasher, oven, or microwave. Not to be used as a flotation device.

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Add Two Hearts  $25 additional.

 

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Add two hearts to any bowl to make it a wedding, anniversary, or Valentine gift, for an additional $25. Hearts are made of purpleheart wood; about 2½ inches wide and 2¼ inches high, ¼ inch thick.

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Poplar-Cherry 23
Height 12½" Width 13¾"

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Top View

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Celebration Vessel 30

Width 14½" x 11" x Height 9"

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Top View

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Cherry with Maple Veneer Layer 46
Height 7"  Diameter 6½"

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Cherry with Maple Veneer 
Top View

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Question:
 
Why is there a hole in the side of some of these bowls; for example, Linden 53 below?
 
Answer:
  1. A hole adds an element of thought to the piece; for example, you wonder why the bowl has a hole in it.
  2. It adds incongruity and irony;  with a hole in the side, its contents could spill out. The hole also shows how thin and fragile the bowl is; usually one thinks of wood as sturdy and unbreakable.
  3. A hole adds something visually interesting to an area of the piece that could use some variety.
  4. Think of it as window into the soul of the bowl.
  5. If there happens to be a peg in your wall, you can hang the bowl from it.

Linden 53
Height 7" x Diameter 7½"

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Top View of Linden 53

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Large Mixed Woods 61
Height 11" x Width 14¼" x Width 9"

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Another view of Mixed Woods 61

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Top view of Large Mixed Woods 61

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Woods used in Mixed Woods 61
are cherry, hard maple,
bird's eye maple,
curly maple, walnut,
padauk, bloodwood,
oak, and poplar.

Chasm 62
Cedar, curly maple, mahogany
Height 5½" x length 10½" x width 7"

 

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Chasm 62 Top View

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Large Mixed Woods 63
Height 9" x length15½" x width 10½"
Woods used: redheart, oak, maple, lacewood, cedar, zebrawood, sycamore, Brazilian rosewood, Madagascar rosewood, bloodwood, bacote, poplar, yellowheart.
 

 

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Top View of Large Mixed Woods 63

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Symetrical Mixed Woods 67
Height 8¼" x diameter 9½"
Woods used: zebrawood, lacewood, yellowheart, maple, bloodwood, ash, maple.
 

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Symetrical Mixed Woods 67 Top View

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Board from which Symetrical Mixed Woods 67 was sawn

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How I Made Symmetrical Mixed Woods Bowl 67

The photograph to the left shows the pattern of the original board after I cut out eight rings with the band saw, then reassembled them for the photograph. Creating the original board took many steps. I started with a 4-inch square of zebrawood and glued two pieces of 4" x  ¾" lacewood on both sides; then I sanded the ends evenly and glued two pieces of 5½"  x  ¾" lacewood to form a square. After sanding the new ends evenly, I repeated the process with ¼" yellowheart, ½" bloodwood, and ¾" ash. By this time the square had grown to nearly 10 x 10 inches. Because the glue took a while to set completely, I could only glue and sand the ends of four new pieces a day; so the process of forming the board took almost two weeks. When the square was finished, I sent it through a planer to get the tops and bottom even and flat.  Next, I glued a layer of 9" x 1/4 " maple to the board to give it stability.

I tilted the band saw table to 12 to cut out the first ring; with each new ring I titled the band saw table an additional 2⁰ for 4 or 5 rings, then increased the tilt to 3⁰ for the remaining rings. (I nested the rings into their original locations for the photograph.) I glued and clamped two rings together at a time, carefully matching them up and letting the glue set overnight; then I stacked the pairs to each other until eventually I formed the bowl.

Next came hours of sanding inside and out with successively finer grits of sandpaper, using a 3" foam hook-and-loop disk mounted in my drill press. This took a long time. Following a final rubbing with fine steel wool, I finished the bowl with two coats of a food-safe oil and varnish mix (Watco Butcher Block finish).

Marblewood with Bloodwood Stripe 70  
Height 6¼" x 8" diameter

 

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Large Mixed Woods 71
Height 7 ½" x 9¼" diameter
Woods used: marblewood, ash, bloodwood, zebrawood, purpleheart, maple, walnut.

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Top View of Large Mixed Woods 71

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Small Bloodwood Vessel 73
5½ Ht x 5¾ D

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Top View of Small Bloodwood Vessel 73

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Bowl on Wedge 74

8¾Ht x 6½ W x 10 L

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Top View of Bowl on Wedge 74 

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Random Mixed Woods 75
Height 7¾" x 7¼" diameter

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Top View of  Round Mixed Woods 75

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Walnut & maple  76  
Height 10¾"  Width 9¼"

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Top View of  Walnut & Maple  76 

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Random Mixed Woods 77
9¾"Ht x 10¾"L x 6¼"W

Photo by Gregory Staley

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Top view of Random Mixed Woods 77

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Random Mixed Woods 78
11¼"Ht x 13¾"L x 9¾"W

Photo by Gregory Staley

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Top view of Random Mixed Woods 78

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Random Mixed Woods 79
9½"Ht x 9¼"D

Photo by Gregory Staley

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Top view of Random Mixed Woods 79

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