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Ural Maintenance Information


Use this data at your own risk. The author assumes no liability for any injury or damage incurred by the reader. This document is intended for informational use only.



This document is has three sections:

         Provide general guidelines for maintaining a  -10 model Ural

         Provide specific details of the critical initial 2500km break-in maintenance, and subsequent 2500km tune-ups

         Identify discrepancies in the Ural Owner's Manual and the Repair Manual



I - General Guidelines for Maintaining a Ural:


6 key areas follow:

1.        Never take maintenance items for granted

2.        Understand common Ural problems

3.        Too often is better than not often enough

4.        Lubrication is your friend

5.        Vinyl and rubber dressing is your friend

6.        Buy the maintenance CDs


1.        Never take maintenance items for granted

Most maintenance items on modern motorcycles are "checks" to verify that something is set correctly, is tight, is filled, etc. The majority of these checks result in no adjustments or further maintenance. As such, some of us eventually tend to skip certain checks, or give them the quick once-over.


This is not the case with a Ural.


Here are some maintenance items that needed adjustment on the initial 2500km tune-up that might not be expected on a year 2000 bike with just 1600 miles on the odometer:

-          Cylinder bolt torque: All four of the lower cylinder bolts were loose. Oil was weeping onto the engine case and frame. This occurred again by the 5000km maintenance.

-          Cylinder head (sometimes called valve head) bolts needed to be re-torqued (ditto 5000km maintenance)

-          Oil pan bolts were loose (they've been slightly loose on every 2500km maintenance until the most recent at 10K)

-          Nuts and screws inside wheel hubs were loose

-          Brake rod (stay) cotter pin missing


When the manual tells you to daily check the bolts that hold the final drive to the swing arm, and the electrical connection bolts on the alternator - which it does, do it.


Be thorough in your maintenance regimen. If a manual says to check it, check it. If the manual doesn't specify that you should check, adjust, or maintain something that you've routinely done in your previous experience - go ahead and do it.


2.        Understand common Ural problems

Read a few months’ worth of Ural user forums, noting reoccurring posts.  This is a good way to recognize typical problems that could eventually affect you. Good examples of this are:

         loose nuts and bolts

         broken lock washers

         electrical system problems (especially alternator)

         drive shaft failures

         difficulties adjusting valves

         carburetor  problems


3.        Too often is better than not often enough

It doesn't hurt, and can only help, to perform some maintenance items more frequently than called for. Some examples of this are lubricating the drive shaft , replacing the gearbox oil, fully lubricating all cables and corresponding pivot points and nipples/stops, spark plug replacement, and replacing the rubber carb intake manifolds (aka compliance fittings or flanges). I'm performing many of the 5000, 7500 and 10000km items every 2500km. After 10000km, I've not had a single roadside failure and hope to keep it that way.


4.        Lubrication is your friend

A very effective way to prevent component failure is to lubricate thoroughly and frequently. For example, you might go so far as to lubricate the brake shoe cams inside the wheel hubs at the initial 2500km, checking and re-lubricating at each 2500km. At the initial 2500km maintenance there was grease evident on the outside, but contact points were pretty dry. Also, due to posts about broken cables – on the road - and because this was something I'd done with older motorcycles, I lubricated all my cables with a pressure lubricator. I followed this by lubricating all the corresponding pivot points, nipples and stops. While lubricating all corresponding clutch cable pivot points, I sprayed chain lube in and around the rod and hinge at the lower end of the clutch cable (at the rear of the engine case). Chain lube was also convenient for other foot brake linkages (bike and sidecar). I lubricated the entire parking brake assembly using grease on the lower half (especially where the 10mm bolt contacts the stop) and chain lube on the upper half. Also lubed the sidecar trunk lid hinges and locking arm, and the L-shaped rear bench seat brackets.  At the next 2500km maintenance (5000km), I mainly had to wipe off old dirty grease, and re-spray areas that I'd hit with the chain lube. Of course, there were some areas that had to be re-greased like the parking brake.

On the other side of the coin, using quality US market lubricants can actually reduce the frequency of some maintenance items. Good examples of this are steering head bearings, shock absorbers and front forks (see 10,000 kilometer maintenance notes section). Urals are delivered with some components poorly lubricated, not lubricated at all, or lubricated with inferior lubricants; conditions which are all easily rectified.


5.        Vinyl and rubber dressing is your friend

Why does Ural tire rubber and vinyl suck up Armor-All like animals at a Sahara watering hole? Because they need it! Ural rubber and vinyl to watch:

         carb flanges - also called intake manifolds or compliance fittings

         ignition cables and caps

         control cables

         rubber stoppers

         signal lenses


         mudflaps (look for cracks on both edges, at the bends)


6.        Buy the maintenance CDs

The basic maintenance CDs are enormously helpful. Most of the areas in the manuals that simply made no sense to me were made clear in the videos.


II - Specific details of the critical 2500km break-in maintenance and subsequent 2500km  interval tune-ups


Tune-up Cross-reference Matrix

The following table provides a cross-reference for tune-up items as they appear in the manuals; where OM is the Owner’s Manual and RM is the Repair Manual. This table is not 100% complete.



Manual and Page Reference


RM-1-3; OM-4-6

Maintenance Schedule Summary

RM-6; OM-48

Lubrication Chart

RM-6-7; OM-50

Lubrication Diagram

RM-8; OM-49

List of Recommended Lubricants




Spark Plugs

RM-6,9,157; OM-21,48

Valve Clearances

RM-85, 91-92

Carburetor Throttle Synchronization




Pick up Rotor Gap

RM-6,9,155; OM-48

Brake Controls


Engine Oil and Filter

RM-2,6,7,9; OM-5,18,50,51

Gearbox Oil

RM-2,6,7,9,102; OM-5,24,50,51

Final Drive

RM-2,6,7,137-138; OM-5,25,50,51

Air Filter

RM-6,7,164; OM-48,50

Fuel Filters

RM-6; OM-48

Steering Head Bearings and Damper

RM-6,49,67; OM-28,48

Wheel Bearings

RM-6,55; OM-31,48

Control Cables

RM-6,41; OM-34,48


RM-41,52-53; OM-32-33,34

Sidecar Lean-out, Toe-in, and Mount Points

RM-67-68; OM-27,31

Electric Connections

RM-147; OM-46

Check All Fasteners

OM-85 (Service Coupons)

Spoke Tension

OM-31,85 (Service Coupons)

Torque Cylinders and Cylinder Heads

RM-3,91; OM-7

Fork Fluid




This section details specific maintenance procedures, which can be performed in accordance with the Repair Manual and Owner's Manual. Following the numbered items is a special section on 10,000 kilometer maintenance.


1)       Lubricate cables:


"Full" lubrication includes:

Clean off old grease and dirt from brackets, hinges, nipples, fittings, etc.

Pressure-lube: clutch, brake, throttle cables; Gravity-lube: speedometer cable

Grease or lubricate all cable pivot points, brackets, nipples, etc.

Grease and/or lubricate external front and sidecar brake linkage

Grease and/or lubricate control levers (remove hinge bolt and from bracket to perform)


"Routine" lubrication includes: Wipe off excess and accumulated dirt. Re-lubricate all areas that were not pressure-lubricated in the "Full" lubrication.


Interval:         Full @ initial 2500km, then every 7500

                        Routine @ every 2500km



I removed the upper/top end of each cable in order to lubricate them. Even though the lower ends of the cables were usually visible (the speedo cable was not), I removed them anyway in order to grease the pivot points and/or nipples (at the lower end).


Throttle cables:

         I left the lower ends of the throttle cables attached to the fixed brackets down at the carbs, but removed the round cable nipple from the moving carb bracket. Pushing the cable cores up from this bottom position provides the slack needed up at the top (inside the throttle housing). Wedged a small rag underneath to catch the drips when lubing.

         You don’t have to completely disassemble and remove the little chain assembly that is inside the throttle housing on the handle bar. You can push up the throttle cable from down at the carb to provide (just barely) the slack you need to remove the top nipple from the upper metal stop/bracket.

         The bottom half of the throttle housing can remain attached to the handlebar (via the small, center screw) – but it doesn’t hurt to loosen or remove it entirely.

         This is a good time to pull the throttle off the handle bar, remove old grease/dirt and re-lubricate



         Note that the clutch lever pin-bolt has a metal sleeve you must press out; the brake lever pin-bolt does not.

         Green Loctite is a good idea on the freshly cleaned and greased control lever pin-bolts.


Speedo cable: I couldn’t pull the core (even with lower end removed), so I filled the little cup at the upper female threads end with chain lube about a dozen times. You can blow on the top to force it through, and out the bottom if you’re in a hurry and like the taste of chain lube. Lower end can stay in place – experience (with the lower end removed) has shown that 12 fillings of the upper cup is sufficient to work its way down.


Hunker-down on the left side of the bike like you're going to change the gearbox oil. Look into the space behind the engine, under the battery. Lots of brake and clutch linkage to lube from this access point. You might squirt some on the centerstand spring and hinges as well.


2)       Clean and oil air filter. Allow air filter to dry before reinstalling. Wipe out airbox. Clean and dress large rubber airbox gasket. Posts to the Ural forum on the nuts inside the airbox coming loose indicate that green loctite on these internal nuts and bolts is a good idea.

3)       Lubricate footpeg hinges, shift lever shaft, kick start lever and parking brake. For parking brake: use chain lube on the top half (in and around spring and shaft), then use grease on the bottom half (including the adjuster bolt and contact point).

4)       Clean petcock and screen.  Order of removal: bowl, big o-ring, little o-ring  (if you don’t remove this, and just pull down on the screen, it might pull out the brass tube), screen. Dress o-rings and screen with rubber/vinyl lubricant. It’s a good idea to soak them in Armor-All overnight. You might want to grasp the petcock with pliers or a wrench while unscrewing the bowl, in order to prevent the entire assembly from turning.  Install: insert screen, screw in bowl to seat screen, then remove bowl, slide little o-ring up as high as it'll go, next the big o-ring and finally the bowl.

5)       Replace fuel filters. Make a mental note when your replacement filters are significantly taller or shorter then the ones being replaced. Posts to the user's forum indicate that fuel flow-related problems are not uncommon. A significant change in fuel filter height could result in fuel flow problems - because the down-flow angle of the fuel line (above the filter) has changed.

6)      Check steering head bearings per page 49 of the Repair Manual. In addition to the 3rd bullet procedures, I used a push and twist, pull and twist fork movement. See section below on 10,000km maintenance: repacking the bearings (also includes changing the fork oil). When working with the horn or front end area of triple clamps and forks (etc.): when retightening stuff back up, make sure the lower gray steel steering damper bracket is pressed up tight before tightening the bolt (that goes through to horn bracket.) If it is not snug under the triple clamp, steering damper cannot compress for damping (too much air space). Also, to do this, first loosen the damper with the hand knob at the top.

7)       Check, top-up, or replace final drive oil. All of the drain plugs (oil, gear, final drive) should have their o-rings replaced periodically. I got mine from Home Depot. The aluminum crush washers should also be replaced periodically.  I got replacements from a Honda dealer - just took the originals in for sizing.

8)       Sync carbs: Only needed if there seem to be carburetion-related problems (e.g., uneven idle). I use the simplest technique: Make sure they both start to open at precisely the same time. Make sure they both reach maximum opening at the same time. Check compliance fittings for cracks - inside and out. Due to the large number of posts on cracks, it's probably a good idea to have a spare set handy. When reusing them for another 2500km, it’s a good idea to soak them in Armor-All overnight.

9)       Check and/or replace spark plugs. Armor-all ignition wires then  plastic caps and rubber boots inside and out.

10)    Drain engine oil. Prime new filter with oil and replace old. Allow 24 hrs to dry drain plug if using locktite. If necessary, pry old one out with a screwdriver (using the screwdriver at several different clock positions).

11)    Drain gearbox oil (allow 24 hrs to dry drain plug if using locktite)

12)    For fine and coarse splined shafts every 2500 km:  remove drive (propeller) shaft and grease splines and universal joint. Inspect splines for wear.

Note that due to the large number of posts on drive shaft failures, this is one of those areas that you might consider lubricating more often then is called for in the maintenance schedule. Replace shaft as needed.

I use a small chainsaw needle-point grease gun since nothing seems to fit the Ural grease fitting.

*While the wheel is off, check the screws on the Final Drive seal  for tightness (inside the FD unit)*

13)    Wheel bearings: Since the wheels are all up off the ground for rotation (see next step 14), I go ahead and check the bearings every 2500km.

With wheels on: pre-check wheel bearings by looking for side-to-side play, loose dust covers and axle nuts. With wheels off: Note that front axle is a left-handed thread pattern. Put the bike up with all 3 wheels off the ground. Check and adjust wheel bearings (the maintenance video is very helpful for this operation), lubricate external rear brake linkage and pedal and verify the cotter pin is secure in the brake rod stay (cross-pin). Carefully examine brakes, brake cables and linkages (for example, I discovered 2 strands of the front brake cable were frayed at the nipple). When removing the front axle: it will bind if the dust cover is cock-eyed (just like the stop on your old screen or storm door used to work).

With the wheels off:

         Now I remove the bearings per the video, inspect and repack them.

         I cut a 4 in spacer from metal tubing to fit over the protruding axle.

         Using the spacer, a couple of large washers and the axle nut, I hand tightened (as tight as I could). Next I check for slop, abrasiveness or drag by turning the axle.

14)    Adjust brakes/Rotate Wheels: Put the bike up with all 3 wheels off the ground and removed the wheels:

         Grease pivot points (cam area) at initial 2500km. I used screwdrivers as levers, carefully prying each area just enough to gain access with a Q-tip, toothpick, and a small flat blade screwdriver. Sometimes, I had to pry up from different areas to gain full access. Re-check every 2500km and re-lube when needed.

         Grease entire parking brake handle and shaft assembly if not already done.

         Lube any brake linkage that hasn’t already been done; examine hubs, pads and drums and tighten screws in rear hub. At the initial 2500km I found the sidecar brake drum had no indication of wear. It actually had rust on it and no brake dust. (So I think it wasn’t engaging at all); clean off brake dust

         Rotate wheels every 2500km. I use a counter clockwise rotation: front goes to rear, rear goes to spare, spare goes to sidecar, sidecar goes to front. Now re-install them (Don't forget to put on the dust cover before inserting the axle ;-). Adjust brake shoe/drum gap. I chose to not set them according to the gap with a feeler. Pad wear was even, so I adjusted the front according to free play at the lever (I had to loosen the front upon re-check because there was just the slightest drag in one spot). For the rear and sidecar, I adjusted both to the point they were engaged. Then I backed the rear wheel brake off until it turned freely (because I wanted the side car to engage slightly before the rear wheel brake). Road check to make sure the rear wheel and sidecar adjustments do not pull left or right. If it does pull left or right, try loosening one of the adjustments (rather than tightening the other). Better to have more travel then to have dragging.

         Rotating wheels this frequently really helps the pads and drums wear evenly.

         At 7500km, after seeing Alex in the video, I grabbed a spray bottle of miracle cleaner (gasoline), heavy rubber gloves and a paint mask and went ahead and pulled the brake shoes while I had the wheels off. Using the miracle cleaner, I cleaned the wheels: inner and outer hubs, spokes and rims. When I put them back together with fresh grease on the cams, they were like new!

         While the wheels are still off the ground, check and adjust spoke tension


See section below on 10,000km maintenance: service shock absorbers and swing arms


15)    Check and/or set ignition coil pick-up air gap. Side note on ignition cover: Use Stubby screwdriver and 7/32” ignition wrench to get to screws. (No ignition maintenance needed on 750. If needed see 750_timing.txt). Rotate to first firing mark, “0” should match up with mark on rotor. Check air gap at .008-.012 in or .2-.3 mm.

16)    Torque cylinder nuts first, then cylinder head (stud) nuts – do this in valve overlap (per video) on each side, 25 ft/lbs, 300 in/lbs.

17)    Adjust valves:

-          The maintenance video is very helpful for this operation. Recommend that approach – using valve overlap.

-          Be careful not to strip the threaded-cup pushrod adjuster


-          Alternative method:

         Rotate engine with kick starter until one valve is fully opened. Rotate very slowly while watching the valve very carefully to determine fully opened. Check and adjust the opposite valve. After adjusting it, rotate the engine ever so slightly. If the tolerance (that you just set) gets tighter, then you know you adjusted it at the right spot. Some valves will adjust with the opposite valve fully opened; some will adjust when the opposite valve just starts to close. Do this for each valve.

         I follow two rules: After adjusting any valve, it must recheck consistently on two consecutive engine revolutions. After I think I'm done with all four, I recheck them all in turn - and must get a good reading (between .002 and .004) on each valve.

18)    Fill engine oil

19)    Fill gearbox oil

20)    Dress all rubber and vinyl

21)    Check all fasteners for tightness (especially electrical and alternator connections, oil pan bolts, foot peg lock washers for breakage, exhaust collars and brackets)

22)    Adjust clutch lever free-play

23)    Grease underside of seat (L-shaped brackets), all side car hinges (trunk lid and lock-bar, windshield). Note that to remove the seat, first unscrew the 17mm nut on the front underside (above the battery). Then it helps to press down firmly on the rear of the seat, raise the front and force the whole seat forward – towards the gas tank.

24)    Adjust lean-out, toe-in, if needed. The maintenance video is very helpful for this operation; check all sidecar mount points. If your rig has no handling problems (pull-left or pull-right) and the tires show no uneven wear, no adjustment is needed. Just check the mount points to make sure all is tight.

25)    Fill tires



Post Maintenance Note: ~500km after maintenance check rear wheel axle nut and dust cover on other side for tightness.


10,000 Kilometer Maintenance Notes


A)     Upper steering head bearings had minimal, caked, soap-like grease. Lower bearings were fairly dry. Once they are properly repacked and for light duty driving they should be good for at least 16,000 kilometers (10,000 miles), with only routine checks along the way.

B)      Front forks looked fine. Fork oil on the US market is quality stuff. For light duty driving, these should not have to be serviced again for at least 16,000 kilometers, with only occasional checks for leakage.

C)      Shock absorbers looked fine. One had slightly discolored oil. For light duty driving, these should not have to be serviced again for at least 16,000 kilometers, with only occasional checks for leakage.

D)      Swing arm bolts (bike and sidecar) were completely dry. With fresh, quality grease, they should be good for 16,000 kilometers.


Do these things at 10,000 kilometers because they might actually need it. Once you’ve done them with US products they should not need servicing for a longer-then-specified period. If you’re at 10k kilometers, then you’d probably plan to revisit them at 20k kilometers. However, in my case, I will probably not revisit them until the 27,500 maintenance, which is 17,500 kilometers (10,000 miles) instead of the specified 10,000 kilometers.



6)  Repack Steering Head Bearings:


         NOTE: This section combines servicing the front forks since they are removed to repack the steering head bearings.

  • With rig off the ground, remove front wheel and fender.
  • Remove headlight and headlight nacelle, disconnect speedometer cable
  • Remove steering damper; remove lower damper bracket or loosen it and move it out of the way.
  • Remove nuts from underside handlebar studs
  • Remove top steering head nut and washer
  • Remove top fork plugs
  • Fully loosen fork pinch bolts
  • Place a towel, blanket or tarp on the floor under the steering head in case bearings fall out.
  • Bungee handlebars up on tank. Bungee instrument panel, etc. out of the way.
  • Remove forks
  • (Change fork oil – see below)
  • Tap (or bang) from below the top triple clamp to remove it
  • Remove the inner, second top steering head nut
  • At this point the lower triple clamp is free. Ball bearings will be loose when you remove or lower it.
  • Remove the rubber rings from the headlight/fork ears and soak in Armor-All



  • Top upper race comes off and disassembles into 3 pieces.
  • Clean off old grease and dirt from bearings and races
  • Re-grease upper and lower races on both top and bottom
  • Have the top, upper race re-greased and loaded with 22 bearings; have the three-piece assembly within reach and ready to go
  • Load 22 ball bearings into lower race
  • Push up the lower triple-tree, wiggling to get it seated. Prop up firmly with board.
  • Reinstall the upper race, then the top cover. Screw on the cap/nut (big end-down, fitting into top cover) and tighten.



  • Reinstall 2 rubber fork/headlight ear rings
  • Grease the inner circles of the top triple clamp and reinstall loosely
  • Reconnect speedo and any other headlight wiring that might have come undone
  • Replace instrument panel
  • Loosely screw on top triple clamp locknut and washer
  • Wipe off any excess grease from triple clamps and forks
  • Insert left fork tube. With it fully inserted and everything lined up, tighten up fork leg pinch bolt
  • Repeat on right
  • Use the maintenance CD bearing adjustment section for this step: Push up on bottom of a fork tube to have spring assembly protrude from top about 7/8 inch. Prop it up. Screw on the fork plug, onto the threaded rod at the top of the fork spring assembly. Remove chock and allow fork to lower. Screw plug into fork. Repeat for other fork.
  • Fully tighten top steering head nut and fork plugs.
  • Reinstall handle bars
  • Make sure fork pinch bolts are fully tightened
  • Reinstall lower fork steering damper bracket, then remainder of steering damper.
  • Reinstall front fender.


6) Change fork oil:

 (See previous steps for removal and reinstallation information).

With forks removed:

  • Invert and allow to fully drain. Compress a few times while waiting
  • To drain from fork slider bottom, or to inspect spring/plunger assembly, remove drain plug bolt from bottom of fork tube.
  • If you remove the spring/plunger assembly, make sure that when you re-insert it, the little finder-stud at the bottom gets into the matching hole inside the slider. If you don’t, and just tighten the drain plug bolt, the forks will bind!
  • Refill with 4.56 oz (135cc, .3 pint), 5W fork oil in each leg.


14) Servicing Shock Absorbers and swing arms:

With wheels off, remove shocks:

  • Remove motorcycle’s rear shocks
  • Remove sidecar shock: Remove top bolt, loosen bottom; prop up sidecar swingarm to get at lower bolt and remove lower bolt; remove shock – some force required.


Disassemble shocks, clean and refill:

  • Compress shocks to remove retaining rings. I fabricated a shock compressor using two boards (upper was from a 2x6 and lower from a 1x6) and two threaded rods. I drilled a hole in the upper board that was big enough to allow passage of the circumference of the shock’s retaining rings, but not big enough to slide over the shock cover. There’s only about 1/8 inch difference and a Dremel tool helped.
  • Unscrew cap using shock tool in kit. Pull out the plunger, drain, clean/wipe off. Soak rubber  parts in Armor-All.
  • Refill with 105ml 5W fork oil
  • Reassembly is opposite of above. Have spring settings on softest. When you go to compress the spring, first pull plunger all the way up and push the rubber donut all the way down.


Motorcycle swing arm removal and service:

  • Remove brake rod stay from bracket on underside of swing arm
  • Unbolt and remove swing arm bolts (after bending back lock tabs)
  • Using pliers, remove the spacers that protrude on the outside of the swing arm hinges. (One of mine was stuck fast. I found that I was able to remove the swing arm without removing it. After the arm was off, I used a punch from the inside of the hinge and tapped it out).
  • Remove swing arm
  • Armor-all rubber parts (I didn’t remove mine which would have been best. Maybe next time), grease the bolts


Sidecar swing arm removal and service:

  • Remove sidecar brake rod-stay at front of swing arm
  • Unbolt and remove swing arm and brake hub
  • Lube rubber with Armor-All and grease swing arm bolt/hinges


Reinstall motorcycle swing arm and shocks:

  • Reinstall swing arm in opposite steps of removal. Bend down locking washer tabs.
  • For the shocks: you might have to use force (I used a small hydraulic jack) to force the motorcycle swingarm downward enough to accept the shock (compressing the rubber donut on the passenger foot pegs).
  • Reinstall at top and bottom and tighten


Sidecar swing arm and shock reinstallation:

  • With swing arm bolt hinges removed, attach shock loosely at both top and bottom
  • Raise the front of the swing arm up, with the shock and swing arm swung backwards so that you can slide it up onto the rubber stop (that sits under the shock).
  • Slide the swing arm assembly up onto the rubber stop from the rear towards the front
  • Using a pry bar at the rear and a screwdriver at the front push/pry the swing arm into position so that you can reinsert the front, outside hinge bolt.
  • I had a second set of hands help me with the inside swing arm hinge bolt. Much forcing was required.
  • Reinstall brake hub and brake rod-stay
  • Tighten shock bolts and swing arm bolt/hinges


END: 10,000 Kilometer Maintenance Notes

650 to 750 Engine Upgrade Notes



I upgraded my engine at 15000 kilometers. I went ahead and did  full 15000 Km maintenance so that the old engine would be stored in-tune and ready to go if needed. Some coordination was required so that the upgrade came toward the end of the maintenance, but after the new 750 engine was installed, there were still a few small maintenance items still to do. The following notes offer one possible sequence (which worked well for me). Some notes were for my own purpose during the upgrade (e.g., reminders not to forget something between the time I removed it and the time it would need to go back on) and might not make sense as you read it. Other notes (like number 8) might not make sense until you’re in the middle of doing it yourself.



1.        Air filter box. Left brackets on engine, unscrewed nuts inside airbox. (Done during 15000Km maintenance since I had to undo hoses to sync carbs and Armor-All the flanges.)

2.        Carbs: cleaned exterior, Armor-All’ed diaphragms and slide rubber, plastic. Did not remove float bowels. Remove/inspect if/when reinstalled(?).

3.        Drive shaft and final drive

4.        Horn

5.        Took out battery. Speedo cable at transmission. On reinstall don’t forget the rubber washer under the lower speedometer cap (goes between case and speedo cable at base).

6.        Gearbox per video (includes stuff like clutch cable). Rear brake linkage spring hooks onto tab on bottom of gearbox.

7.        Gas Tank

8.        3 top engine mount nuts. Double brown wire goes to top right nut. Metal frame tab goes between rubber pucks on loose mounting bracket.

9.        Disconnect front and back alternator wires.

10.     Engine Guard

11.     Drop exhaust: loosen circle clamps (12/13mm each side). Loosen rear at foot pegs. Loosen/remove 19mm nut on center engine mount bolt on the sidecar side. Remove rear engine mount leaving left foot peg on. Do sidecar first. See video.

12.     NOTE routing of cables and wires prior to engine removal

13.     Engine out!



14.     Prep for reinstall: clean, examine. Loosened exhaust some more, re-organized electrical connections so they wouldn’t be in the way. (RECOMMEND: consider installing the rubber 4-hole driveshaft coupling prior to installing the engine when you have room to work. See #21)

15.     New engine installed: three helpers and I lifted halfway in to rest on frame. Lift right cylinder (as seen while sitting on bike) way high up so that left edge of crankcase bottom (oil pan) can fit up and over frame rail. Once it’s in, resting on the frame, it is relatively easy to work it around to get mounts in. Can’t remember what order, but did it per the video.

16.     Battery reinstalled/connected

17.     Reconnected clutch cable

18.     Speedo cable (rubber boot did not fit new engine well. Used ‘Plumbers Goop’ to seal)

19.     Neutral lead

20.     Brake and center stand springs

21.     Rubber drive shaft coupling install: boiled, then pressed on.

22.     Fitted horn and electronic ignition (did not fully mount yet.

23.     Exhaust back on

24.     Alternator

25.     Throttle cables. NOTE: Had to use throttle cable mount bracket from 650 carbs.

26.     Airbox

27.     Engine guard

28.     [connected new tach – purchased from Terry Crawford. Useful since speedo/odometer was no longer accurate with different gear and speedo-drive ratios. Also, my bike has 18” (vice 19”) wheels. Also bought an electronic bike speedo and mounted it so I could determine road speed as compared to Ural speedo indication. 25 indicated equals 29 mph, 30 indicated equals 35 mph, 35=41, 40=47, 45=53, 50=59, and <projected> 55=65. Also it is no longer a straight miles/Km conversion (1.62, .62):

Have                       Need                       Do

Indicated Kms      Actual Miles         .755 * indicated_Kms = Actual_Miles

Actual Miles         Indicated Kms      [.755 * X_indicated_Kms = Actual_Miles so…]

                                                                [Actual_Miles/.755 = Indicated_Kms   Example…]

                                                                [1550 miles – which is the 2500 km maintenance…]

                                                                [1550000/755=2053 (Indicated Kms)]

                                                                [ So I need to do 2500 Km maintenance at every 2050 indicated]

Once actual miles are determined I can convert back to actual Kms if I need to.


29.     Intall gas tank

30.     Add engine oil, transmission oil, gas

31.     Started Engine!


Having run my new engine for just under 700Km (at time of writing), I have not had to make any corrections to anything done during removal or installation (and there were alot of things done). I have not had anything go wrong. The only adjustment I’ve had to make is to the idle – and that was to be expected. I only add this note as evidence that the above approach can be very successful.


END: 650 to 750 Engine Upgrade Notes


III - Identification of discrepancies in the Ural Owner's Manual and the Repair Manual:


This section is included to reassure the reader of these manuals that, yes, you did actually see two different values in the manual! Having these discrepancies documented in one place might help you decide which set of information is correct. Hopefully, Ural will update the manual to eliminate the discrepancies.


Discrepancies are detailed in the following table (next page), where OM is the Owner’s Manual, RM is the Repair Manual, and TB is Technical Bulletin:








Specifications Chart



RM and OM say capacity is .9L/1 Qt

OM List of Recommended Lubricants says 30 Oz oil, 12 Oz Hyper Lube for a total of 42 Oz

TB says 34 Oz





List of Recommended Lubricants




Maintenance Summary Schedule



Maintenance Schedule Summaries in both manuals say to change every 5000km; Lubrication Chart in OM says to change every 2500km, but the footnote (2) says every 5,000km". The Lubrication Chart in the RM says every 2500km (and the corresponding footnote matches).


The entry in the Lubrication Chart for the final drive recommends to top it off every 2500km; however, the gearbox entry does not indicate how frequently to top it off. Page 24 in the OM says to top it off every 500km - and this should appear in the Lubrication Chart as well.



Lubrication Chart





Final Drive

Specification Chart and procedures




OM page 5 and RM page 2, call for 110ml or 3.85oz oil

OM page 25 calls for 3.85oz oil and 50ml HyperLube

OM page 51 calls for 60ml oil and 50ml HyperLube

RM page 138 calls for .23 pints oil

Web posting from CMSI tech support said 60ml oil and 45 ml HyperLube




6, 7, 138

RM page 138 says to change every 5000km. All others say to top-up at 2500km and replace at 10000km



Spark Plugs

Specifications Chart



Manuals say NGK BP8HVX

Newer bikes come with NGK BP7HS

Entry in User’s Forum from dealer (Wagner Cycles) indicates that “they came to the definite decision last Spring to run the NGK BP7HS”. Is the .040" gap referred to on page 157 of the Repair Manual valid for NGK BP7HS, or only for the previous NGK BP8HVX?






Diagram and corresponding chart



OM is OK. RM is different, and has the following problems:

1)       18 items listed in chart, only 16 show on diagram

2)       item 1 refers to a mechanical timing unit (points, cam and felt) that does not exist on newer models – and does not specify what this item is (I called the dealer to find out)

3)       item 18 on the chart is not shown on the diagram

4)       all other items on the chart are off by 1 (subtract 1 from the chart reference number to get the actual diagram number)




Control Cable Adjustment



Says gap between brake shoes and drum should be 1.6-2.0mm/0.06-0.08in. All other references say .3-.7mm/.012-.028in