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This is a Husky model. I've had it for a few years. The nice thing is that it comes with a
regulator. So, that's one extra piece I didn't need to buy separately. The Air Flow Regulator would allow for the adjustment
of airflow. Limiting the PSI, (Pounds per Square Inch) or the force behind the flow rate.
MOST airbrushes will operate around 20 PSI. But check your airbrush specifications. Not
all of them are the same.
So you will need to know how to read your meters. This model has two meters. One gives readings
of tank pressure...
The other is the output, or the regulated airflow after the air passes through the regulator.
The meter on the right is for the airflow...
The meter on the left is for tank pressure.
The knob in the center adjusts the regulator.
MOST threaded connections will need to be sealed with teflon plumber's tape. It makes the
best seal that doesn't glue it together. Metal pipe is recommended. PVC can get old and weak & eventually fail. The tape
is very thin & streaches slightly. It is wrapped around the threads.
The Connectors:
There are two different connector pieces. A female end.. Which has a slip collar on it. This
locks the male connector end inside it. There is a female end on the compressor in the image above. The Female end not only
connects pieces together, but it also seals the airflow, when the coupling is disconnected.
The coiled hose:
This hose has a male end connector for the air couplings. This piece isn't as big & bulky
as the female end. It does not seal the air from escaping. This is why these are not used on the compressor. If they were
on the tank, a constant flow of air would escape the tank. Thus, no air build-up in the tank would take place, and the compressor
would run for the entire time it was used.
The male end allows the air to "bleed", or rush out of the hose or device, depressurizing.
When the coupling is installed, and pressureized, and the coupling is undone, the air will rush out of the hose or unit. So
it makes a bit of saftey sense, that a firm grip is used to hold onto the coupling units after it is uncoupled. The air, bleeding
out of a hose can move the hose and the male end, unpredictably and rapidly.
Another bit of equipment you'll need is the Moisture Filter. When air is compressed, it can
no longer hold the poisture it contains. So, it's squeezed out of the air durring the compressing proccess. Water, enevatably,
gathers in the tank, and eventually out and down the hose.
For airbrush purposes, this is a giant pain to have water wash over the artwork. So this little
filter is placed in the air line. Between the regulator and the airbrush. By bending the seal at the bottom of the moisture
filter, you can bleed off the moisture as the filter fills up. Emptying the filter is a little messy. (Water spays out.) So
keep a towel handy.
You have found a Skull! Click this link to watch a Shlock Movie: Eyes of the Werewolf.
Some hoses come with a controllable sprayer. I have only seen new ones, and I never see a
tip on them. The tips are interchangable with hand tools. This would be fine if the air line had a manifold to split the air
line. But this is just a dedicated airbrush rig. So this valve would have to be removed with a few hand wrenches.
The Airline that is connected to the moisture filter, is connected to the airbrush. The airline
has a braided fabric cover, and is crimped to connections at the factory. One end has the threadsize to connect to the airbrush,
(there are two different sizes of thread, depending on the airbrush manufaturer's specs.)
The other end has the normal pipe thread connections used in the couplings.
My airbrush is a Paasche Type "VL" It has dual action, (air only or paint & air,) And
it's adjustable needle setting. Here I got the paint jar attatchment that came with the kit. If you're doing a large application
of a single color, or surface prep, this is the way to go.
A face mask is good saftey. The tube above it is shelf paper. I use that to cover whatever
I plan to paint, Like a frisket. (FRISKET: Stencil costom cut by the artist.) I have a few very good books about airbrush,
if you ever go to the library or book stores...
AIRBRUSH: The Complete Studio Handbook
Author: Radu Vero
Publisher: Watson Guptill
ISBN: 0-8230-0166-3
The Complete Airbrush Book
Author: Peter Siegel
Publisher: Leon Amiel Publisher, New York
ISBN 0-8148-0734-8
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The Halloween-L is a great website & forum. You should go there NOW! Ok, after you view my website. But right after that,
go there! (If you know what's "Boo" for you!)
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