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Ground adapters are used to create a route for the ground circuit to make a path to the electrical
panel. This is a safty feature. It's supposed to save you from becoming electrocuted, and possible REAL DEATH!
I have been an electrician since 1977. So I have a deep knowledge of not only basic electrical
systems, but industrial control circuits, audio systems, fire alarm systems, PA Equipment, and a LOT of other electrical applications.
You NEED to have the grounded device, have an unbroken ground route, all the way to the
electrical panel.
If you happen to touch a unit, that has a disconnected hot wire, and that wire is touching
the case that encloses, let's say, a fog machine. Then you will get zapped IF the ground does not make it back to the elecrical
panel.
This is also going to happen in damp conditions. For example, most everyone loves that low-lieing
fog effect. (definatly an awsome effect.) But look at the conditions you're creating...
A high wattage fog machine...
A cooler of MELTING ice...
AND a very good chance that water is on the ground somewhere.
It's the end of October and there is dew on the ground.
These are perfect conditions to get electrocuted. You NEED that ground established.
If all you have is a household extention cord, that does not have a ground wire in it, why
not buy or borrow one? They really are not that expensive to perchase. Considering that it'll save you a trip to the emergency
room, cardiac arrest, and possibly death... Wouldn't you feel safer knowing you did everything you can to keep yourself and
your guests safe?
Now, you know I wouldn't tell you all this if I wasn't going to show you at least ONE way
to make sure that you learn how to establish a ground to a non-grounded outlet. Let's face it, not ALL homes have the outlets
with the little face on them. Just the two slots. But even those outlets SHOULD have a grounded system established, even though
the ground does not appear at the actual outlet.
Here's how to go about attatching a ground adapter properly to your outlet. All you really
need is the grounded outlet adapter, and a standard slot-type screwdriver.
Now, I DON'T have any non-grounded outlets IN my apartment, so just imagine that there is
no third hole for the ground prong, (on the plug of the extention cord) present on this outlet in this series of images.
Here's the outlet that we'll be working with. You can turn off the power, at the electrical
service panel, AKA: Breaker Panel or Fuse Box. But this is a completely safe proceedure, and you don't have anything to worry
about.
If you only use one hand, there is nearly no possibility that you can be shocked, unless you're
standing on wet ground (or floor,) and your shoes are wet, or in bare feet in water.
If you are, then I recommend that the power to the outlet be disconnected. Either by flipping
off the breaker at the panel, or removing the fuse from it's socket.
This is a typical Ground Adapter. Your's may not look EXACTLY like this. This one is orange,
and has a ring-lug, instead of a wire with a forked lug.
The wire type is probably the best type to get, because it can be installed in either outlet,
(top OR bottom,) because the wire is long enough to allow the adapter to be used in either outlet.
However, my adapter has a ring lug, attatched directly to the adapter, with no wire. I still
had to reposition the lug, kind of bend it straight, so that the hole of the lug, would line-up with the screw of the faceplate
that covers the outlet.
You can see how I kind of straightened out the lug a bit. It should be extened
slightly to line-up with the screw hole.
Line up the screwdriver with the slot on the screwhead. And rotate the screwdriver
in a counter-clock-wise direction. In the electrical trade, this is called "Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Loosey". So rotating the
screw to the Left is going to loosen the screw.
Here's the screw. You don't even need to remove the faceplate from the outlet.
It'll hang right from the outlet, unless it's angled in such a way, (like on a ceiling) so that it falls away. Just hold the
cover in place and push in the adapter into the upper outlet,
(if you have one like my example here.)
Just plug it in, just like any other plug. These outlets and plugs are usually
polarized. That means the prongs of the plug can only be postitioned, and inserted into the outlet one way. One prong is wider/taller/fatter.
than the other. Of course, this means that the large prong goes into the larger slot of the outlet.
Because of the polarized feature,
you won't be able to insert a ground adapter like mine, into the lower outlet.
(Because there is no screw below the lower outlet, for the lug to be attached
to.)
This is why I recommend the adapters with the wire, because you can simply bend
the flexable wire, up over the adapter (in the lower outlet, and anchor it under the screwhead.
(BTW: There IS room to add two lugs under the screwhead.)
You can also have an adapter like mine in the top outlet, and use a "wired" adapter
in the lower outlet. As long as the grounds are established, the electricity doesn't care how it gets back to the panel, just
that it get's there.
Check to make sure that the hole of the ground lug is in-line with the screw
hole of the faceplate. It doesn't have to be perfect, as there IS a little play allowed, and it will still work, even if it's
slightly miss-aligned.
Insert the faceplate screw THROUGH the hole of the ground lug, AND into the screw
hole of the faceplate. Tighten the screw by rotating the screwdriver clock-wise, (Righty-Tighty...Lefty-Loosey.) Try NOT to
over tighten the screw onto the faceplate, as it's USUALLY made of a stiff/brittle plastic. It'll crack easily. So just keet
it snug. BUT NOT LOOSE.
In the case of a ground adapter with a wire, (with the forked lig crimped to
the end,) simply loosen the faceplate screw enough to slip the forked lug under the screw head & tighten. There is no
need to completely remove the screw from the faceplate. This should guard against any accidental contact to the wires/screws
inside which might be energized.
These screws have what is known as, a beviled head. That means that the
screwhead is not FLAT on it's underside. So it's NOT going to snug-up to the lug completely flat to the faceplate. But, this
is more than enough to establish a ground. Because the ground only needs a few moments to work properly.
If you have a GFI/GFCI protected circuit, (AKA: Ground
Fault Circuit Interruptor.)
you should ALREADY have the ground prong/slot IN the outlet already. This is a construction standard for ANY outlet that is
located in potentially damp/wet locations. GFI's should be tested every so often. (I test mine when I replace the batteries
in my smoke detectors, sometime before Halloween and those other so called "holidays".)
To test a GFI outlet, simply press the BLACK button on the outlet.
You'll hear a "Snap" noise. The GFI has not only cut the power to THAT particular
outlet, but it also has killed the power to ANY other outlet it is protecting.
The "Snap", was the red button as it popped forward slightly. The red button
is to reset the GFI unit. To reset the GFI, simply press the red button in, and it should click. If it clicks, the GFI is
reset, the power to the GFI outlet...
(as well as any other outlets that it is protecting,) is restored.
This is also a cool way to kill the power, without going to the electrical panel.
All outlets that are protected by a GFI outlet unit, SHOULD be labled something
like this. It simply states that it is a GFCI Protected Outlet.
BTW: GFI & GFCI are practically the same thing. It's the same protection.
The GFI is usually a special Quick Response circuit BREAKER in the electrical panel.
If you're interested, here's a link to Electrical Videos that I've searched on Yahoo for.
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Please be sure to visit "How to Halloween" A new up and coming site on building your own Halloween decorations for next to
nil!
The Halloween-L is a great website & forum. You should go there NOW! Ok, after you view my website. But right after that,
go there! (If you know what's "Boo" for you!)
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