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Four Corners to Four Corners and Back - Day 16

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Day 16:  Day of Many Surprises.

Friday, 7/18/97

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            Slept in this morning, then drove around to all the civilized attractions that we could:

Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Memorial, the Wood Carving Museum, and Jewel Cave National Monument.  That with all the driving between them took all day.  Each place was worth the visit and each provided unexpected surprises.

            On the road leading to Mount Rushmore, we spotted two mountain goats grazing right between the road and a rock face a foot or two from the road.  They did not seem to mind it when we stopped the car right across the road from them and took pictures.  They were beautiful creatures with a snow white coat and sharp black dagger like horns. 

            As we drove up to the entrance to Mount Rushmore, there were signs indicating that the parking fee was $5.00 in the lot next to the Visitor Center and Gift Shop, but that there was a fee-free lot a 1/5th of a mile further on and down hill.  The lower lot would require a walk up several hundred stairs to get up to the Visitor Center.  We picked the free lot, thinking that we did not mind stairs and that way the less agile folks could park up close.  We discovered that the lower lot was located right next to the building that was the Artist's Studio, a significant part of the visit to Mt. Rushmore.  There was a Park Ranger giving a very interesting presentation with props and samples showing how the sculpture was carved, or more accurately, drilled, blasted and jack hammered.  The Artists Studio held an interesting museum with scale models and other exhibits.

            We then walked up the stairs leading toward the Visitor Center and saw people who had parked in the fee lot walking down the stairs to get to the Artist's Studio.  So they paid five bucks for the privilege of walking down the stairs and then back up to get back to their car, and we parked for free and walked up the same stairs first, then after our visit, back down to our car.  Of course there was also a boardwalk/trail leading up toward the base of the mountain that was labeled as strenuous, but gave different views of the famous four faces far above.  So we walked that before we went to the Visitor Center and found one of the views was from a rock cave allowing you to peek up at George and Abe through a crevice. 

            When we got to the Visitor Center, we got some ice cream that we attempted to eat outside.   The difficult part was to beat the heat.  The ice cream was melting faster than we could eat it.  It was also very rich and we both quit and had to discard the last half of the cream soup. 

            We then drove to the Crazy Horse Memorial, located 34 miles west of Mt. Rushmore.  This huge monument to the Native American leader is privately run and funded entirely with the entry fees and donations.  It is a long way from finished, but it will eventually be a real mountain converted into a huge statue of the noble Indian mounted horseback.  Right now just the Face is finished and all four of the nearby Presidential Faces would fit inside the space it takes up.  There was a $12 entry fee to drive into where the Visitor Center is, which provides nice views of the mountain still being carved away.  They have been working on it for thirty years and expect to still be working on it for decades to come.

            The Visitor Center has exhibits and photos and a film all about the project which includes an eventual College Campus dedicated to Education for Native Americans.  and adjacent to the Visitor Center are several buildings with Native American Museums and Crafts Shops that were also very much worth your time and entry fee.  Just about the time that we had determined that we were glad we had paid that fee, we discovered that for an additional $2.50 each we could ride a special bus up a private dirt road to the base of the mountain.  We bit.  Don't be turned off by this bait and switch tactic.  Pay the extra fee.  The bus goes up much closer and then the driver stops at the base, lets every one out and gives an informal but personable discussion on the project that you don't get back at the crowded Visitor Center.

            We had lunch in their restaurant.  Brennan had a Buffalo Burger and Bob had Tatanka Stew on Indian Fry Bread.  On our way out, we selected our "Piece of the Mountain" rocks.  Interesting solution they have for getting rid of the tons of rock blasted away from the mountain as they reveal the Spirit of Crazy Horse on his mount that clearly is inside that mountain.  They bring the chunks of rocks down to the Visitor Center, put them in a bin at the exit and with instructions for visitor to pick a rock that fits their personality and take it home with them as a free souvenir.  We bought two tee shirts in one of the Indian Craft shops.  We guys just don't know how to shop.  There were so many interesting things and we buy a couple of tee shirts.

            The Wood Carving Museum was mostly displays of the clever creations of a lifetime of one artist.  Some of the exhibits were animated, being activated by either one of the four wooden tokens that you get with your admission, or a quarter from your pocket.  The strategy to employ here is to follow close behind another group so they pump the coin-ops.

            We arrived at Jewel Cave National Monument with twenty minutes until the Scenic Tour at 4:00 pm.  We could get tickets to that tour here, or quickly drive to the other entrance a mile away to see if we could get into the Candle Light Tour, also starting at 4:00 pm.  Choices, Choices, Choices!  We decided there were no wrong answers other than for Bob to try the Spelunking Tour.  They had a Concrete Block Crawl Through Test in the lobby area.  If you could fit through the opening then you were eligible to participate in that tour.  Brennan shot though on his tummy with no trouble, but Bob could not even get his shoulder blades to pass.  And that was starting head first.

            We enjoyed the Scenic Tour and were back out to the car at 5:30 pm.  Dark clouds to the South West indicated approaching thunderstorms but to the East of us and directly above us was just a light gray overcast. We decided to head for the Wildlife Loop in Custer State Park to see if we could encounter some evening sightings. 

            On the way, we passed through the town of Custer, spotting a Pizza Hut.  Brennan mentioned that he had not had pizza since we left home two weeks ago, so we stopped for dinner.  Service was a little slow ... we had been given menus and were ready to order, but our waitress was not in sight.  During the long wait, we discovered that the menus slid easily on the table so we were sliding then back and forth just for the fun of it when another waitress came over to say, "Are you ready to order?"  My reply, "Yes, what was your first clue?"  She went off to find the waitress assigned to our table.

            Still no one came to take our order, so we began spinning our menus on the table.  Eventually, the spinning menus came too close together and collided, shooting off in opposite directions.  One headed for the wall, the other toward the aisle.  We both reacted with quick reflexes, Brennan stopping one, Bob grabbing the other, then both of us quickly looking innocent as if nothing had happened.  Brennan said, "Yes, Mother!", as if we had been admonished for misbehaving.

            As we departed the Pizza Hut, we noticed that the sky above us was still showing dark clouds moving in the same direction we were going.  We headed on toward the Wildlife Loop Road, with a side trip up the Mt. Coolidge Tower Road.  At the top, it was quite windy and -- really dark to the South West of us, with lightning flashes going down to the ground from the clouds that were actually lower over the valley than we were up on this mountain.  We got nervous about the exposure to the oncoming storm, quickly getting into the car and down off the mountain.  But of course we were not ready to give up on the Wildlife Loop Road. 

            Distances out here are just longer than you anticipate, even though the map tells you it is 16 miles to here and 25 miles to there and you are still inside the same State Park and still getting further away from camp, also in the park.  As we found the beginning of the Wildlife Loop Road, the storm caught up with us.  Heavy rain with skies darkened and winds blowing.  But, being who we are, we just turned on the fog lights and kept going. 

            Through miles of beautiful countryside we had only seen a few mule deer.  Finally, we came upon about a half dozen bison grazing on the roadside.  No fence, this is their territory.  The cars and people are the visitors.  By now it was late evening and with the rain and clouds and setting sun, there was not enough light to take decent pictures.  But it was still a great experience to see these massive creatures just a few feet away as we drove by. 

            We finished the Wildlife Loop and drove back to camp at Sylvan Lake in the dark via Needles Highway, a road with sharp turns and skinny tunnels and overlooks and cathedral spires of rock all over the place.  It will be an enjoyable ride tomorrow in the daylight.  This night it is an adrenaline pumping adventure. 

            We got back to camp at 9:00 pm and Brennan discovered a moth zipping about inside the trailer.  He went after it with a fly swatter instead of with a moth swatter which must account for why he kept missing.  Eventually, as he tried to imitate a Gatling Gun with the flimsy plastic swatter, we both broke out into hysterics.  As he kept trying to swat this acrobatic moth, Bob picked up the other fly swatter to help.  Immediately, a second moth appeared and we both collapsed in laughter again.  Somehow, Brennan caught one in midair with a mighty swing and the other disappeared at the same instant.  The flaming remains of the first moth were found and disposed of.

            It is still raining and flashing lightning and banging thunder outside, but it is 10:00 pm so it is time to stop writing.

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p.s. 10:20 pm

            The second moth reappears.  Brennan is already asleep so Bob goes after it.  Moth number two shot down and splattered all over the cover of this journal.  Clean up your writing, Bob! Then bed time.

Next Page -- Day 17: Wildlife Every Where!

Previous Page -- Day 15: Leave Town Quick & Gaffer's Tape.

Index -- Four Corners to Four Corners and Back.

Copyright Robert M. Kuhns, 1997, 2005

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