MirraChrome, Alclad Chrome, & Kosmic Krome
The process detailed below can be used on any type of item, I am going to show my process using Sizzler cars. This is the process that I use, it is what works for me, if you follow it to the letter you should be able to get great results. But again this is only what works for me, it doesn't mean that this is the best way, or the right way - there may be some other process which is even better. I am always open to suggestions and input, just e-mail me at : slmajor1@verizon.net
Background Info
I am a long time collector of the Hot Wheels Redline Era Sizzlers Cars. The inserts are almost always found with the original chrome missing from the insert as the battery fumes destroy the chrome finish over time. Rechroming the inserts on Sizzlers cars is acceptable among Sizzler collectors and does not affect their value.
I finally built a display case specifically for my Sizzler collection and I want to have the inserts rechromed. One option is to send them away and actually have them replated, but cost isabout $6-$8 per insert plus shipping costs. When you have 60-70 inserts that need to be rechromed like I do, that would get real expensive.
I spent over 2 months researching, reading, talking with modelers, and alot of experimentation to develop this process.
The 3 best "chrome" paints are Alclad II Chrome, MirraChrome from Alsa Corp, and Kosmic Krome Mirror Reflective MC-00 from House of Kolor (HOK). This process works well with all of these products.
Prep
You need to make sure your part is completely clean. All old finish should be stripped off. For my Sizzler inserts the nigth before I intend to paint them, I place the inserts in a Ziploc baggy, then I spray a liberal amount of Easy-Off Oven Cleaner in the bag, seal the bag, and allow the parts to sit overnight. Be sure to place it somewhere safe just in case the baggy should happen to have a leak somewhere. The next day I remove the parts from the bag & scrub them using a toothbrush dipped in the oven cleaner liquid that has pooled in the bottom of the baggy. Then I thoroughly wash, rinse, & dry. With the oven cleaner be sure to use the regular strength in the blue can, not the yellow can. Also make sure your part is fee of any lint, dust, debris etc. All chrome paints will magnify any flaw no matter how tiny it is.
Process
Step 1a: Base Coat Color - Never spray any chrome paint directly onto your base coat color. Myself I do not use a base color, I see no need for it. Any color can be used as a base coat. If you wish to try a base coat color, I recommend bright white - the brightest, glossiest, white you can find. Many people prefer black as a base coat color, again make sure it is the glossiest black you can find. Let your base color dry for atleast 24 hours. If you do use a base coat color(I don't) just make sure it is a high gloss paint - that is more important than anything.
Step 1b: Clear Coat - This is the whole key to getting a good chrome look. This is the most important step whether you use a base coat color or not. To get a good chrome look you need a super slick smooth high gloss ultra shiny finish. You also need a clear coat that is solvent sensitive to allow the chrome paint to etch itself to it, this prevents the chrome paint from rubbing off easily. I use Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane Clear Gloss as shown below:
I thin this with mineral spirits, paint thinner works fine too. Make sure you coat your part in a shiny smooth layer of clear coat, if you used a base coat color, spray this clear over your base color before applying the chrome paint. This particular clear that I use dries quickly, during the summer I just let the part sun dry for about an hour.
I just cannot stress it enough - before applying the chrome paint you need the part to be absolutely as glossy as possible and as smooth as possible - it is not possible to get it too glossy or too smooth. This is the most important part for getting a good chrome like result - you must have a super glossy, super smooth, clear coat on your part.
Step 2: Chrome Paint - You want to spray a very fine light mist from about 3-5 inches away. You may need several coats. No need to wait between coats, just spray until you have good coverage & a good look. Use a PSI between 40-50 lbs when spraying the chrome paint. The higher PSI allows for a finer smoother coating. Now just sit your part to the side & let it dry. I usually let my parts dry for about 2-4 hours just to be safe, I know the bottle says 10 minutes, but I like to wait a good bit longer. As it dries, it may look a but dusty or milky, thats OK.
I have found that I get the best results with a single action airbush. This way you can set the spray to a real fine mist and it stays consistent. I have tried all of my airbrushes and have found that the Badger 200 set for a real fine mist spray creates the best results.
Step 3: Shining it Up - After painting your part will usually have a fine dust coating on it, this is from the overspray of the chrome paint. This is what we do to get rid of that dust and get a very shiny look. Take your part and very, very gently using some warm running water, a soft toothbrush, and some liquid dish detergent wash your part all over and then rinse it. Immediatly after rinsing take a soft cloth, I use a papertowel, and just gently dry/buff your part. Now you should have a very nice shiny reflective chrome-like part!
Notes
1- For some reason many modelers have the idea that you need to clear coat over the chrome finish. This is not unecessary and will dull out the chrome look.
2 - If you wish to paint a candy color over the chrome finish - that can be done, but results vary from poor to superb. Painting a candy over any chrome paint is a very touchy & challenging process. Chrome paints are very senstive to the chemicals, solvents, and thinners that are in most all paints. I would suggest the mildest water base candy color you can find & thin it with a 50/50 mix of water & denatured alcohol. Then after the candy color is dry you should be able to spray the clear coat of your choice over that. Mirrachrome & Kosmic Krome are the best choices if you plan to overpaint the chrome with a candy color. But again, candy color over any chrome paint is an inexact science.
Personal Thoughts - Alclad, MirraChrome, Kosmic Krome
Alclad: - This is the most readily available chrome paint out there, most hobby stores carry it. Comes in a 1 ounce bottle for about $7.50 It has a decent chrome look, but not as good as the other 2 paints. Easy to use, doeshave good reflective qualities to it & you can achieve quite a nice look with alclad, but don't expect a real shiny chrome look.
Mirrachrome: - Made by Alsa Corp. The most expensive chrome paint of the 3 discussed here. A 1 ounce bottle has to be mail ordered at a cost of $20 plus shipping and is available at: Kustom Rides The cost is a drawback, but the results are nothing less than spectacular. Extremely easy to use & without a doubt the best chrome paint on the market. If you follow the process outlined above, then using this paint you can get a look that is very near to chrome plating.
Kosmic Krome: - Color is called Mirror Reflective MC-00 manufactured by House of Kolor. Basically its the cheapest available at an average of just under $6 per ounce, but smallest size available is an 8 ounce can which costs about $46. Personally I think an 8 ounce can is a great size for hobby use, enough to work with, but not excessive. Price is also reasonable. It has a chrome look that is far superior to Alclad, but not quite as good as MirraChrome. It is very difficult to work with. Fineness & consistency of spray are extremely important. It will develop a splotchy look if sprayed even the slightest bit heavy, or if your airbrush happens to "spit" even just a tiny speck, the result will be a spot in the chrome finish. If it is sprayed too heavy it can wrinkle the under coat. Also very sensitive to heat & humidity. This stuff has a great look when it goes on clean, but its tough to get it right consistently.
Recommendations: - If you want cheap, easy, & readily available then go with Alclad. If you want affordable, good quantity, & nice look go with HOK Kosmic Krome, but keep in mind its tricky stuff to work with. If you want great ease & superior quality and don't mind the cost then go with MirraChrome.
Conclusions: Appearance wise I prefer MirraChrome over all others. MirraChrome has a shinier, more reflective, more true chrome like appearance. Usage wise Alclad & Mirrachrome are both easy to work with. Cost is an big issue - a 1 ounce bottle of MirraChrome cost me $26 shipped, a 1 ounce bottle of Alclad purchased at the Local Hobby Shop costs $7.49, and an 8 ounce can of Kosmic Chrome from Auto Paint Supply cost $46.
For my Sizzler inserts I am going to use the MirraChrome that I have left and when its gone I will go to the HOK Kosmic Krome. I am not going to be using the MirraChrome, but thats mainly due to the cost of Mirrachrome & also the trouble of having to mail order. If I could get MirraChrome for a price that was more comparable to HOK, then I would use the Mirrachrome without question.
Photos
All of these were done using steps 1B, 2, & 3 as listed above. No base coat color was used on any of these.
Its hard to show the differences in photos, a sthe diffference are quite subtle. The difference in appearance between these 3 paints is more noticeable in person, than in pictures. Alclad has more of a reflective silver look, while MirraChrome & Kosmic Krome have a smoother, brighter, more chrome-like look.
Comparison of all 3 Chrome Paints
