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When I'm not following a specific sock pattern, I just follow the German sock formula, which is based
on shoe size. German knitting books have some version of this formula in a table, and you can download sock tables from Regia.
There are four Regia tables, one for each of their four yarn sizes.
To use the German sock tables, you have to know the sock wearer's Euro shoe size. Convert the UK or US shoe size using this
table:
Shoe Size Conversion Table
| US Sizes |
UK Sizes |
Euro Sizes |
| Men | Women |
Men | Women |
M & W |
| -- | 4-4.5 | -- | 2-2.5 | 35 |
| -- | 5-5.5 | -- | 3-3.5 | 36 |
| -- | 6-6.5 | -- | 4-4.5 | 37 |
| -- | 7-7.5 | -- | 5-5.5 | 38 |
| -- | 8-8.5 | -- | 6-6.5 | 39 |
| 6-6.5 | 9-9.5 | 5.5-6 | 7-7.5 | 40 |
| 7-7.5 | 10-10.5 | 6.5-7 | 8-8.5 | 41 |
| 8-8.5 | 11-11.5 | 7.5-8 | 9-9.5 |
42 |
| 9-9.5 | 12-12.5 | 8.5-9 | 10-10.5 |
43 |
| 10-10.5 | -- | 9.5-10 | -- |
44 |
| 11-11.5 | -- | 10.5-11 | -- |
45 |
| 12-12.5 | -- | 11.5-12 | -- |
46 |
| 13-13.5 | -- | 12.5-13 | -- |
47 |
Now find the sock wearer's Euro shoe size in the Sock Knitting Table and follow the stitch and row counts in that column:
Sock Knitting Table (Fingering Weight Yarn)
| Euro Shoe Size | 34/35 | 36/37 | 38/39 | 40/41 | 42/43 | 44/45 | 46/47 |
| Cast On | 56 | 60 | 60 | 64 | 64 | 68 | 72 |
| Heel Flap Width (stitches) | 28 | 30 | 30 | 32 | 32 | 34 | 36 |
| Heel Flap Length (rows) | 28 | 30 | 30 | 32 | 32 | 34 | 36 |
| Foot Length from End of Heel to Beginning of Toe (cm/inches) | 12.5/ 5 | 13.5/ 5.5 | 15/ 6 | 15.5/
6.25 | 16.5/ 6.5 | 17/7 | 18/ 7.5 |
| Toe Decreases following First Decrease Round |
| Every 4th Round | 1x | 1x | 1x | 1x | 1x | 1x | 1x |
| Every 3rd Round | 2x | 2x | 2x | 2x | 2x | 2x | 2x |
| Every 2nd Round | 3x | 3x | 3x | 3x | 3x | 4x | 4x |
| Every Round | 6x | 6x | 6x | 7x | 7x | 7x | 7x |
Note: "End of heel" is the last row you knitted when you turned the heel.
Working the toe: If you follow the table for the toe decreases, you get a more rounded toe than you get decreasing
every other round.
How I Do It
With straight needles and using the alternate cable cast on, cast on the required number of stitches.
Untie the slip knot.
With the (first) sock needle (I use one 30-cm [12-inch] Addi circular), slip the first stitch, then work *k1tbl, p1* to
last stitch. Drop that stitch.
Make sure the round is not twisted, then join the round by knitting the slipped stitch.
Move the tail to the back of the work (the inside of the sock) and put the dropped stitch on the lefthand (LH) needle.
Purl this stitch.
Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Work k1 p1 ribbing for a total of 15 rounds.
Work 75 rounds of stockinette.
Work the heel flap as specified on the chart.
Turn the heel. Place a row marker in the last row.
Pick up around the heel, heel flap, instep, and heel flap.
Work 1 k2tog before the instep and 1 ssk after the instep every other round until you've decreased to the number of stitches
you cast on.
Work even in stockinette until the foot from the end-of-heel row marker measures the length specified in the chart.
At this point I change to a set of 5 dpns, using two needles for the instep and two for the sole. The round begins at
the righthand (RH) side of the instep.
Work the toe decreases as follows: k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the end of the instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before
the end of the sole, k2tog, k1. This is the "first decrease round" in the chart.
Now work even rounds or decrease rounds as specified in the chart.
Place the instep stitches on one dpn and the sole stitches on one dpn.
Cut a 12-inch (30-cm) tail and graft the toe.
Weave in the end.
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