This hood weighs 32 lbs unpainted.

Stock finished 99 Cobra hood weighs 38 lbs.

This is the underside of the hood. The vents are cut out and made functional for heat extraction, with metal screens covering the vents to stop debris from entering the engine compartment.

There is also a cover the secures to this to keep water out, or for show. I plan on painting it and adding a Cobra decal to it.

This is a shot of the functional vents on top, looking from the drivers seat.

Here I installed the custom made hood lift brackets and lifts from my old hood onto the new hood.

Passengers side

I removed both while the hood is being painted.
I did not use nylon inserts this time to secure the bracket.

Drivers side.

Here the hood lift kit is installed and working perfectly. These were originally installed on my stock hood during a prior modification.

After the new paint job.

Originally I purchased the Motorcraft hood pin kit  below which has 3 5/8" pins
and they were not long enough for my application.

Ford part # M-16700-A

After some looking around, I found the hood pin kit below from YearOne.com
The kit's part number varies depending on lanyard length.
I got the 18" lanyards, kit #A010018S

This hood pin kit is OEM on 1968-1974 Barracudas, Super Bees, Chargers, etc.
It has 4" stainless steel pins, very well made scuff plates with recessed holes and a
more appealing custom look. It also includes gaskets which install under the scuff plates.
 

Hood pin hole drilled small and made to size with a Dremel tool.

I used a washer and rubber grommet over the pin after installation to obtain the correct hood height that would normally be adjusting using the stock height adjusters that I removed to installed the pins.

Hood latch plate secured with four Allen head screws.

Brushed stainless steel, and a rubber gasket under each plate. Stainless steel screws and pin. 18" Nylon covered lanyard.

This is the underside plate that came with the FMS ink kit. This is the only piece of the FMS kit I used. It works good to protect and reinforce the hole area underneath the hood. Looks good also.

I reinstalled my hood light from a prior modification of my stock hood.

Front of a new OEM Hood Latch.

Ford part #XR3Z-16700-AA 

Back of a new OEM Hood Latch.

I replaced mine because my original was worn from having to slam or drop the original stock hood closed. I probably didn't have to replace it but I like to make sure everything is OK.

There are two pins (one on each side) that simply pop out using a hammer and punch. Removing these two pins allows additional side to side adjustment in the hood latch when mounted. Here you can see I already popped out the one on the left of the latch where the empty hole is.

These are the two pins to remove.

With these two pins removed you can now further adjust the latch up/down, left/right to allow the hood to latch VERY easily just by simply pressing down on the hood. On my old hood I had to do this, but on my new hood I did not have to, it fit perfect.

CAUTION:
By removing these pins and tampering with the adjustment you risk the chance of your hood unlatching and opening while driving. That's why I installed the hood pins.

The easiest way I found to to any alignment of the hood, was to bolt to the hood latches, then loosen the two screws securing the base of both latches. A 1/4" ratchet and extension will reach straight down to access the rear bolt through the rubber latch cover. Once both are loose, line of your hood front/back and side/side and tighten both rear bolts. Then open and tighten the two front bolts.

Functional heat extraction vents

It's nice not having a prop rod in your face!