We got off the train in Khayelietsha an hour later. What had impressed us was that there were two security officers on every car. We assumed that this was due to our presence, but after speaking to many passengers, we found this was usual. Unlike the city, the people operating the trains were making an effort. What remained a problem was theft. We wondered why there were no railing or bars to hang on in the cars. We were told that there had, in fact, been such things but they had all been stolen. During a trip, that is. 

The town was poor and somewhat rural. It also contains the largest shanty town that we had visited earlier. We found more fruit stands. The fruit stand business was widespread. There were small dealers everywhere in Capetown. There were herds of goats ambling about. There was no one we saw in charge of them. I think they were feral goats. If there is such a thing. I hoped they weren't smileys-to-be.

From the station we were hustled into vans and hustled off at alarming speed by a couple of maniacs. They were intent on looking at the road once every 30 seconds while engaged in heated conversations about short-cuts. We were driven so far off actual roads in search of short cuts I thought I saw a cactus.

We still arrived behind another van. That one, it turned out, was equipped with a jet propulsion system and extra insurance. We were deposited in a meeting with the bosses of the train system. The fella in charge was quite affable but knew next to nothing about the trains, the system, or much outside of snappy suit selection, but he was entertaining. The rest of them told us how amazing their train system is. Apparently, its the greatest in the known universe.

It was certainly the only one I had seen with impromptu towns set up along the tracks within arm-length of the trains. (We were informed that the people in these places had recieved letters asking them to leave. That should work.)

From this meeting we were to head out of Capetown for the first time to a top-secret military base where many disastrous weapons were built and where zebras roamed freely.  It turns out that, in addition to being an underground weapons factory, the place was a game reserve with significant populations of many of South Africa's native animals. It was a bit odd, but very intersting. We met Jacques, a wildlife expert and avid hunter, at the gates and he took us around in a couple jeeps.

We saw two types of Zebra, a new breed with few stripes, and the Cape Mountain Zebra who was quite a stripy fellow. We also saw Bonta Bucks, red and Black Wildebeests, Blue Cranes, Oryxes, Elands, and Kudus. Kudu’s are masters of camouflage. I took several pictures of them, but you can’t see the damn things anywhere. They are quite big but mostly unknown.

The eland is the largest antelope in South Africa, roughly the size of an elk. It is highly sought after for trophies. The extinct Cape Lion used to live here. It had a darker more pronounced mane than the lions that populate Africa now. Baboons also range all over the mountains here, but we didn’t see any. We were only allowed to take pictures of certain areas, as much of the base is considered secret.

Joe, of Portuguese descent, made a tremendous traditional meal for us. The food was succulent and delicious. Their hospitality was unrivaled. Joe made a gift of an animal skin emblazoned with the GA logo. He  and his wife also gave several of us bangles. Bangles are bracelets given to signify lifelong friendship. Joe, three-sheets-to-the-wind at this time, expanded his cadre of life-long friends two-fold this night.

We were taken to the taxidermy shop after dinner (thank god), and I was taken aback. It was beautiful craftsmanship, incredible to be fair, but I still don’t like it. The animals are better living in my book, but these were friendly, giving people, and they live their own life. Here are some pictures:

The next day would be another busy one. We go to Robben Island, where Mandela was imprisoned for all those years.