Campo Marzio

My Roman Holiday

I continue north to the Campo Marzio...

The Piazza Navona is the heart of Renaissance and Baroque Rome. Its long shape is the result of the ancient Circus of Domitian, which was built here in A.D. 86. Only the entry arch of the circus remains, in the northern part of the piazza. It is located 30 feet below the level of the modern city, a result of the deposit of soil over the last 1,500 years. This is a charming location, free of cars, with many famous restaurants, including the Tre Scalini, where I ate lunch and watched the runners (more than 50,000 of them) competing in the Rome Marathon. The Tre Scalini is most noted for its tartufo, or truffle ice cream.

Area Sacra del Largo Argentina

Near the Piazzo Navona lies the Largo Argentina. Across from the famous Teatro Argentina (where the Barber of Seville debuted in 1816) is located an archeological area excavated between 1928 and 1929. This sacred precinct contains the remains of several temples from the Republican era. Included are ruins of the Theater of Pompey, where Caesar was assassinated in 44 B.C.

Piazza della Rotonda

This is a typical Roman square, with many sidewalk cafes. Giacomo Della Porta designed the square in 1578, and the obelisk (from the Temple of Isis) was placed here in 1711 by Pope Clement XI. Its most impressive feature, however, is the Pantheon, the most perfectly preserved Roman temple. Originally built by Augustus' son-in-law, Marcus Agrippa, in 27 B.C., it was completely rebuilt in the 2nd century A.D. by the emperor Hadrian. It was Hadrian who added the great dome (made of concrete) which is 142 feet high. The only light comes from the oculus (eye), which allows rainwater to enter (the water is drained through the floor). The temple was given to the popes in A.D. 608 by the eastern emperor, Phocas, and was dedicated as the church of St. Mary ad martyres. Several important tombs, including that of Raphael, are located in this structure.