Mitsubishi Ki-30 "Ann"; 23.89" span Dave Diels kit
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Fuselage keel / former assembly. Side keel in place - remaining formers to be 'tilted' into position

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Fuselage and tail feathers

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Wing center section

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Right wing panel being attached to center section

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Completed wing with tail feathers and fuselage

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Landing gear struts. Wheel pant on one side only

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Completed wing test fitted into fuselage

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Magnets in place to hold LG struts

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Mock-up

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Wings covered and in place

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Covering of the fuselage begins

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Wing fillets in place

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Wing markings in place - top and bottom

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Tissue circle cut with 'Olfa" circle cutter. Aileron markings drawn with gel ink pen

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Two layers of tissue is used as 'greenhouse' framing

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Excess lengths will be trimmed after bottom 'sealer' tissue strip is added

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Framing complete. Excess tissue trimmed.

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10.27.08:
Here's a link to a short video of the 'ANN' in flight at Wawayanda, NY on October 26, 2008. The flight is only about 20-25 sec long, and represents a slight thrust adjustment to reduce the tightness of a LH flight pattern. It now seems to dive to the left, but I'll get that worked out in time. The previous flight to this was a beautiful 52 sec cruise across the flight line, over the heads of the contestants. I wish that was the one I had on video.
Here's the link:
 
 
Thanks to Ron Gosselin for providing the video.
 
10.19.08:
The Ki-30 is complete. There are many details I chose to leave off, but I believe I've captured the essence of the plane.
 
I'm using the Gizmo Geezer adjustable prop and thrust button for this project. I'll report later about the results.
 
This project went together extremely easily and all the parts fit as advertised - typical of a Dave Diels kit. 
 
For more info about Dave's kits, you can follow this link to his website:
 
For more info about the gizmo Geezer thrust button and other accessories, you can follow this link:
 
10.18.08:
"Greenhouse" framing has been added. I use two layers of tissue adhered together, then applied with glue stick and rubbing alcohol.  The tissue horizontal lengths are applied first, then the verticals, which extend from one side over the top of the canopy then down the other side. A length of excess tissue is left on each side that gets trimmed after the bottom 'sealer' strip of tissue is added and let to dry.
After all the tissue 'framing' is applied, I use a trim iron to 'set' the tissue to the plastic.
 
10.14.08:
Covering of fuselage is complete. The markings are in place.
 
10.08.08:
Covering of the fuselage begins, along with attaching the wing fillets.  I use drafting vellum, a stiff but flexible paper that has approximately the same opacity as Esaki tissue. This forms the base of the fillet. Then I attach a layer of tissue with a slight overlapping edge to help the color be more consistent.
 
The fillet is attached to the balsa frame contours with RC-56 flexible white glue, and the tissue overlap is attached with gluestick. I find that this helps to feather the edges of the fillet.
 
10.02.08:
Wing is covered and attached to the fuselage.
 
09.27.08:
Wing is complete and sanded. Magnets have been added to LG strut location to hold struts in place.
 
09.10.08:
Wing is complete. I added an extra 1/4" of dihedral per panel.
 
09.10.08:
Wing center section is framed up without upper spars.
 
09.08.08:
The fuselage frame is complete, and the stringers above the side keel have been added on both sides. The lower stringers get added after the wing is in place.
 
The tail feathers have also been built. The plans call for 1/16" cap strips to be added to the stab bottom, because the main structure is to be built from 1/16 x 1/8 strips. Well, I did it a bit different. The main structure s from 1/16" stock, and I've added 1/23 x 1/16 strips top and bottom. This will provide the profile shape once sanded, and be a bit lighter than the 1/16" sq strips called for on the plans.
 
09.03.08:
I've begun this project with the fuselage. Typically, I cut out all the parts first, then assemble. I sand off the printwood ink, except for the part number at this time also.
 
I tend to build keel / former fuselage assemblies a bit different than most instructions tend to describe. Instead of attaching all the formers to the keel then adding the side spar, I add the last three formers (starting at the back), THEN add the side spar. I find that this method provides for a three-point contact point and it helps to assure a true perpendicular former alignment. Each additional former is added by 'tilting' it in place along the side spar notch.
 
08.22.08:
This project, a 1/24 scale, 24" span, WWII Japanese light bomber, is being built as part of the "Nate Sturman Memorial CookUp" being hosted by the Free Flight CookUp group on Yahoo. This event begins on Sept. 1, 2008, and continues until Dec 31, 2008.
 
If you'd like to participate, or find out more about the FFCU group, please follow this link:
 
 
 

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