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PLEASE REMEMBER TO BRING THE FOLLOWING
ON PICK UP DAY:
1.) A KITTEN/ CAT CARRIER (WE DO NOT
PROVIDE THESE)
CAN BE PURCHASED AT WALMART, TARGET,
PETCO, PETSMART, KMART
AND A BLANKET OR TOWEL TO PUT
INSIDE THE CARRIER.
2.) YOUR FINAL PAYMENT -YOUR
KITTEN BALANCE, PAID ONLY IN CASH IF YOU BRING A CHECK THE KITTEN WILL NOT BE RELEASED UNTIL HE/SHE IS PAID FOR
IN THE ABOVE STATED MANNER.
**PLEASE PURCHASE THIS VERY IMPORTANT
SUPPLEMENT FOR YOUR KITTEN /CAT FOR A MUCH HEALTHIER, BETTER LIFE:
TAURINE POWDER - 100% PURE TAURINE IS IMPORTANT IN MAINTAINING NORMAL
VISION, BLOOD PLATELET & HEART FUNCTION. ** CATS CAN NOT MAKE TAURINE ON THEIR OWN AND THE AMOUNTS OF TAURINE IN COMMERCIAL CAT FOODS IS INADEQUATE FOR BENGALS.
ASIAN LEOPARD CATS NEED A HIGHER AMOUNT OF TAURINE THAN DOMESTIC CATS.
WHERE DO I ORDER MY TAURINE POWDER???
PLEASE CLICK ON THIS LINK BELOW. YOUR
PRODUCT CODE FOR THIS ITEM IS: 73-151 $8.99 FOR 16 OZ. POWDER (CONTAINERS LOOK IS DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN ABOVE)
PLEASE CLICK HERE TO ORDER YOUR TAURINE POWDER NOW
Jeffers Pet (click here to purchase your Wild Trax Hybrid Feline Vitamin Supplements)
CLICK HERE FOR OMAS PRIDE RAW FOODS
Click here to enter the Royal Canin website!
Click here to enter the Purina Pro Plan site!
Click here to enter the Purina One website!
KITTEN NUTRITIONAL NEEDS:
the most rapid growth occurs during your kitten's first 9-12 months.
Even though your kitten may appear to be full - grown at about 6 months of age, he / she is still growing and maturing on
the inside. In fact, kittens can have twice the energy needs and nutrient requirements of an adult cat on a pound - per -
pound basis.
FEEDING YOUR KITTEN:
Kitten's smaller mouths, teeth and stomachs limit the amount of food
that they can digest during a single meal. it may be best to divide their daily amounts to be fed into three or four meals
or free feed - always keep their food bowl almost full (which I personally recommend). (YOU CAN READ THE TAURINE
DIRECTIONS AS TO HOW MUCH TO PUT IN THE KITTENS FOOD. MIX TAURINE IN WITH YOUR DRY FOOD OR IN YOUR WET FOOD, WHICHEVER IS
PREFERRED TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE GETTING THEIR DAILY DOSE OF TAURINE EACH AND EVERY SINGLE DAY!)
Make sure to check that water is not being splashed into it, mold can start to grow in the
food bowl and make your cats sick. Keep water bowls a pretty good distance from food bowls, remember Bengals love to play
and splash in water.
because a kitten requires a diet specifically formulated for growth,
every bite must be packed with highly digestible protein. remember to always have fresh water available (change water daily
and remember to wash your crocks out daily or weekly (I recommend daily washing) .
Welcoming
your new kitten into your home requires many things...
A lot of LOVE, PATIENCE and PREPARATION. With
the right equipment and helpful tips, you can make your kittens transition from our home based cattery to your home a smooth,
less stressful experience for everyone, especially that sweet little fur baby.
WITCHINGHOUR RECOMMENDATIONS TO ALL NEW PARENTS: Please make sure that you quarantine your kitten(s) in one room (BATHROOM OR ROOM
WITH NO BED OR HIDING PLACES WORKS BEST) that can just be theirs for at least 3-4 days(UP TO 2 WEEKS OR MORE IF KITTEN IS
ON THE SHY SIDE)even if you take them to the vet already, it is just not for health reasons. They need to get familiar with
this new strange place, the new sounds, smells and visuals,any pets already living in the home AND YES.. EVEN YOU. This move
is a lot for little baby to take in and process. Give your new kitten time so that you are relieving stress from him/her ,
thus relieving stress on you due to innapropriate elimination, inadequate bonding to you and health issues (such as FIP ect.)
arising from stress from just letting them have free range as soon as they come into your home (it's just to much stimulation
at one time), more than likely they are going to hide... your asking for trouble. Let baby only have its' water bowl, food
bowl, litter pan (away from food and water), his/her carrier (or kitten bed) w/ blanket or towel inside and toys. Make sure
the room is not to hot or to cold and go in after you bring baby home about two hours later (after you have already put baby
in the room) so that the kitten can get used to his/her surroundings first than they can start phase two, which is getting
used to you. I have noticed when this procedure is done correctly, it helps transition the kittens so much better and helps
not have so much turmoil in the begining for everyone! make sure you go into the room every single day and have playtime (either
2 - 30 minute sessions or 1 hour or longer is recommended) for adequate bonding and continued socialization. If you just leave
the kitten in the room and never go in to play with him/her, you will get a kitten that more than likely is afraid or does
not want anything to do with you thus... creating a CAT that will be afraid of you or not want anything to do with you as it matures..
SOCIALIZATION IS THE KEY TO A HAPPY, WELL ROUNDED KITTEN! BASIC
SUPPLIES: 1. Bed or sleeping area 2. Water and food bowls 3. A lot of different and exciting toys! (Witchinghour tip: Try putting some of the toys away and rotating different toys out about every week to two to keep
it exciting and fun). 4. Litter box, scoop and
scoopable litter 5. a lot of scratching
post and a cat tree or two works wonders on keeping kitty from scratching on your furniture. 6. Purina One, Purina Pro Plan or Royal Canin kitten food (parents pick). 7. Harness and a lead (Optional) BEDS: Provide a comfortable sleeping area to discourage your kitten from sleeping on your furniture
(Optional) (We do carry a nice assortment
of kitten beds in our home based cattery store)for discount prices). FEEDING BOWLS: Choose bowls designed for cats - shallow, broad - based stainless steel or ceramic crocks work
the best. SAFE TOYS: Avoid toys
that have sharp edges or parts that your kitten could swallow. Beware of yarn, it can be very
dangerous if ingested. HOMESICK BABIES:
When you bring your new baby into your home, at first
he / she may miss her family. He / she may wake up and meow during the night. Sit on the floor with the baby and comfort him
/ her by speaking softly and stroking him / her gently (this is a great way to help reassure him / her that you are there
to give love and comfort). If this does not calm him / her, try this tip: * Put a
hot water bottle (100 degrees to 102 degrees F) wrapped in a towel near him / her. This should remind him / her of her siblings. EASING THE TRANSITION: Introduce your kitten / cat
into your home gradually by following these helpful tips: * For the first 72 hours, keep
your kitten / cat confined to one room with a litter box, food, water, toys and bed. Let him / her become comfortable in this
room before introducing him / her to the rest of the house. (I YOU HAVE A VERY LARGE HOME, YOU WILL NEED A LITTER PAN ON EVERY FLOOR AT FIRST. BABIES CAN NOT ALWAYS FIND THE
LITTER PAN IF THEY ARE ON THE THIRD FLOOR AND THE PAN IS ON THE FIRST.) YOU WILL BE ABLE TO ELIMINATE ONE OR TWO BOXES (DEPENDING
ON HOW MANY BOXES YOU HAVE) AS THE KITTEN MATURES AND YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE WHAT BOX HE / SHE IS USING MORE FREQUENTLY.) CHILDREN IN THE HOUSEHOLD: Show your children how to
properly pick up a kitten and how to play with their new friend. Teach then that cats don't like to be teased or have their
ears or tails pulled, that this can hurt them. Always supervise your children's interaction with you new kitten. (I have heard
of many stories about kittens being accidentally stepped on, shut in refrigerators ect, so always SUPERVISE). This is very
important when friends come over to play. OTHER PETS: BEFORE YOU INTRODUCE A NEW KITTEN TO THE HOUSEHOLD, BE SURE HE / SHE (AS WELL AS YOUR RESIDENT PETS) IS DISEASE -
FREE AND HAS BEEN RECENTLY CHECKED BY YOUR VETERINARIAN. OLDER, SETTLED - IN PETS MAY RESIST SHARING THEIR DOMAIN, AND IT
MAY TAKE A MONTH OR MORE BEFORE YOUR NEW KITTEN IS AN ACCEPTED MEMBER OF THE FAMILY. fOLLOW THESE STEPS TO SMOOTH INTRODUCTIONS. STEP 1. put your new kitten in a separate room away from other pets for the first 72 hours, and leave
his / her carrier open in the room you have selected. The familiarity of the carrier may make it a safe haven for kitty. (Resident
pets will become aware of your new kitty by his / her scent) if you have another cat, he may prowl around the doorway and
show signs of aggression (this is a normal response and should eventually subside). During
this period, spend extra time with your resident pet to relieve any anxiety and minimize tension. Confine him / her to his
favorite part of the house while the new kitten is allowed brief journeys out to explore your home (only after he / she has
had their well baby check - up). When your new kitten seems comfortable, allow the animals to start viewing each other from
a distance. STEP 2. Allow your pets to meet. Stay in the room while they get acquainted. Let
them start to sniff each other's space and one another. Make sure each pet has an easy escape route in case one or the other
wants to leave. Some hissing or growling is to be expected. TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL PET INTRODUCTIONS: * If one cat shows hostility towards another during the initial introduction, don't punish him
/ her; that action could backfire on you. Instead, start the whole process over again after seperating the animals for a day
or two. * Respect each pet's territorial rights. if your older cat has claimed the living
- room sofa as his / her favorite spot, allow him / her to keep that space as her own domain. Help your kitten find a new
spot he / she can call his / her own. * Establish separate but equal relationships with each pet
to prevent jealousy. * If you have a dog, keep him / her on a leash at first,
and monitor him / her closely. In the begining, don't let him / her chase or bother your new kitten, and don't make your kitten
remain in the same room with the dog if he's / she's uncomfortable or scared. * Buy separate
food and water bowls. * Give each cat a separate litter box, this will help them
resist the temptation to find a private privy in an inappropriate place. Roxanne's
Rules " It Looked Like a
Potty to Me !” *
Bath Mat (use the towel variety and hang from towel rod when not in use) * Clean laundry (don't leave it out) * Laundry baskets (turn them upside down) * Closets (keep them closed) * Linen cabinets (put latches on them if you see kitty taking interest in trying to open them) * Pantry (latch it) * Cabinet under bathroom sink (latch it) * Suitcase (zip shut and put away; stand upright if it must stay
out) * Gymn bag (zip shut and
put in car or closet) * Clothes
on floor (use hamper with lid on it) *
Plastic on floor – bubble wrap, grocery sacks, etc. (pick up after yourself) * Paper on floor - homework, newspaper, etc. (pick up after yourself) * Anything flat left on floor that doesn't belong there (pick up
after yourself) * Corners of
carpeted rooms (cover with scat mats, litter boxes or furniture) * Throw blankets not folded after use (fold them) * Throw pillows not set upright after use (set them upright) * Unmade beds (make the bed as soon as you get up) * Pillows left above bedspread (pillows go under the bedspread - and spray with Feliway; when in
heat though pillows go IN THE CLOSET during the day) * Under the bed (put a skirt of pine planks around the base of the bed like in hotels) * Anything left out of place (pick up after yourself) * Pet beds ( they may or may not try to pee or poo in these. The less it looks like a nice place
to go, the better. Try to find beds that are not overly cushioned)
CAT PROOFING YOUR HOME:
Your kittens / cats inquisitive nature can be dangerous. Follow
these recommendations:
* Keep all medications and household cleaning agents locked
up
* Shut the bathroom door when you run water in the bath tub,
unless you are doing water play with your kitten or adult cat.
* Keep stringy materials away from kitten / cat except under
your supervision. Items like string, yarn, fishing line and thread attached to a needle can be lethal if swallowed.
* Close toilet lids, and make sure the fireplace is tightly
screened.
* Secure unscreened windows. Cats may jump out of open windows
(especially Bengals). Cats often lean into screens as they nap, so secure the screens on all other windows. Contrary to popular
belief, cats don't always land on the feet when they fall and can be seriously injured if they fall the wrong way.
* Close all garage and appliance doors. A warm dryer or a
car engine may entice cats in search of a warm place to nap. Severe burns can take place in either spot.
* Immediately place opened tin or aluminum cans behind cloesed
doors or in a container with a secure closed lid. the edges of these cans are extremely sharp and can cut or even SEVER your
cats tongue (pay special attention to tuna, canned clams, crab ect, as cats are highly attracted to these).
* If possible, replace the antifreeze in your car with a nontoxic
brand. Antifreeze tastes sweet to pets and is the most common feline poison. Ingesting just a teaspoon of antifreeze can cause
kidney failure. Keep all other chemicals in the garage out of reach.
* Set rodent traps out of the cat's reach. These traps can
break the delicate bones in a cats paw.
* Keep easily swallowed small items such as balls, bits of
fabric and baby - bottle nipples away from your kitten / cat.
DANGEROUS HOUSEPLANTS:
MANY CATS WILL NIBBLE ON YOUR GREENERY, AND SOME PLANTS MAY
BE TOXIC TO THE FATAL LEVELS IF EATEN. aVOID PURCHASING THE FOLLOWING PLANTS, AND CHECK GARDENING AND HOME - SAFETY BOOKS
FOR ADDITIONAL LISTS AND PICTURES OF COMMON TOXIC PLANTS:
* PHILODENDRON
* DIEFFENBACHIA
* EASTER LILY
* CALADIUM
* FALSE JERUSALEM CHERRY
* OLEANDER
* AZALEA
* RHODODENDRON
* COMMON OR CHERRY LAUREL
* MISTLETOE (HOLIDAY SEASONS CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR CATS,
CHECK YOUR CHRISTMAS PLANTS).
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON MORE DANGEROUS PLANTS, GO TO:
Poisonous lanscaping and houseplants (CLICK HERE)
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