Luckily, my local bike shop had old new old stock white Schwinn rear brake cables and housing available.  I used the housing for routing both the brake and shift cables.  Adjusting the brakes and derailleurs was straighforward following Zinn's text.

The Cyclo freewheel was easily removed using an original Cyclo freewheel tool purchased from Bikeville.com.  Apparently, the Park freewheel tools do not fit.  As a precaution, I used a nut and washer on the axle to hold the tool against the freewheel to avoid stripping the notches in the freewheel core, as recommended by both Sheldon Brown http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html and by Zinn's text.  I chose not to attempt a freewheel disassembly which is discouraged by Sheldon Brown.  Axles were thoroughly cleaned, repacked using Phil Wood's Waterproof Grease, and tightened following Zinn's text.

Simple Green and a toothbrush works well, although a fair amount of elbow grease is needed.  I also used Old Roads bike cleaning kit http://oldroads.com/clean_kit.html (bronze wool and 'Menotomy Mixture') to 'smooth' the metal parts.

Rebuilding the headset following Zinn & The Art of Road Bike Maintenance was a breeze compared to rebuilding the bottom bracket.  The top set of ball bearings were fixed in a race, while the bottom set were loose.  As with the bottom bracket, I re-used the ball bearings and used Phil Wood's Waterproof Grease.  Not too difficult to get the right tightness.

Be sure to purchase the Peugeot-cut cotters sold by Harris Cyclery.  Even with these, I had to file the cotters to get the right fit using a flat file and vice as described by Sheldon Brown in his 'newer' Tool Tips Cottered Cranks article http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html.  I am glad I purchased the cotter press, because I had the cotters in and out at least a dozen times.  Even now, the cranks are about 5 degrees off of 180 degrees.  I will take it!

No problem re-building bottom bracket.  I squirted LPS-3 Heavy Duty Rust Inhibitor into the tubes.  I then inserted an accordian-like bottom bracket sleeve, purchased from Harris Cyclery, to prevent crud from the tubes getting to the bearings.  I used Phil Wood's Waterproof Grease and re-used the loose ball bearings to re-pack the bracket.  I also purchased a modified Horzan Hook Spanner from Harris Cyclery to tighten the lock ring.  Sheldon Brown's 'safe cracker' technique http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbadj.html worked well for getting the lock ring and adjustable cup just right.

The headset and bottom bracket, except for the fixed cup were easily removed from the bicycle.  I tried a variety of techniques to remove the fixed cup including heating with a blow torch, and using a large crescent wrench and hammer combination to no avail.  I then read Sheldon Brown's 'Tool Tips' article on 'Bottom Bracket Cups' http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html and learned that for my reburbishment project I shouldn't be removing the fixed cup, and furthermore I was using the wrong methods.  Consequently, I have decided to read all of Sheldon Brown's "Tools Tips' articles http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/index.html before continuing with this project.

Sheldon Brown indicates that cotter pin removal can be one of the most challenging hurdles to overcome when disassembling a bicycle, and I can now attest to that.  I purchased a cotter pin press from Bike Smith Design & Fabrication http://bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/index.html.  It worked well on the non-drive side crank arm, but the drive-side cotter pin was too stubborn and the threaded-end of the pin snapped off.  I then used Sheldon's hammer and pipe technique, substituting for the pipe a 2"x4" wooden stud with a hole drilled in the end to receive the pin head.  This approach also did not work.  Lastly, I purchased 1/8" and 1/4" DeWalt cobalt split and pilot point drill bits and drilled the cotter pin out.  This was not too difficult once I had the right bits in hand.

I decided to purchase some bike-specific tools for the project and to maintain my other bicycles.  I went with Park's Advanced Mechanic's Tool Kit.  Nice set of tools, but does not come with a torque wrench, toothed lockring spanner, or pin spanner, all of which I would like to have.

Since I am a bicycle mechanic novice, I needed reference texts and manuals before embarking on my restoration project.  I recommend Lennard Zinn's "Zinn and The Art of Road Bike Maintenance," published by Velo Press.  It is excellent with lots of illustrations and easily understood narrative.  Also, Sheldon Brown's and Tom Kunich's articles on maintaining, upgrading and modernizing French bicycles are invaluable and available on the Harris Cyclery website.