Costuming-General Info

Bellydance with Liesa

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"RAKS AL ASSAYA" - CANE DANCE
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A FUN FOLKLORIC STYLE EGYPTIAN DANCE

Different styles of performance costuming:
Top picture is a dress "Folkloric" style; my teacher bought these in Egypt for Hayetti troupe many years ago - they have held up great with careful treatment and minor repairs. It is black net with gold threads throughout and covered in paillettes (plastic discs). I am wearing a coin costume bra & a gold straight skirt under the dress (both handmade by me)- because it is sheer, and to add to the folkloric look. I made the head and hip scarves from leftover remnants; trim is paillettes on the head scarf, cloth fringe on the hip sash.
Bottom picture: Najam in  bronze bra & belt  (from vendor) & layered skirts that she made.
 

NAJAM - SHE MADE THE SKIRTS
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BRONZE BRA & BELT FROM VENDOR

WHOLE LOTTA LAYERS!!

2003 OUTDOOR FESTIVAL Treza, Bahiyeh, Liesa, Shazaadi

Picture at right: One of our "fantasy designs" for outdoor festival dancing in a downtown park. Almost all handmade - harem pants w/ 2 skirts : a panel straight sided & a 4 point sheer handkerchief skirt over that ( a square with a hole in the middle!); tops over coin bras, coin belts. Most of the coin bras & belts are also homemade, sewing aluminum costume coins over a base - time consuming but "easy".

         We don't wear "fancy" costumes to class:
CLASSWEAR
Preferred gear:
 - dance practice gear such as tights, leggings, dance pants, leotards, unitards
 - yoga type: soft leggings, tops
 - scarf or sash at hips: the visible line at the hip helps you learn movements
 - feet: bare, ballet slippers, soft dance sandals or shoes
Not advisable:
-  baggy clothing
- jeans
- sneakers, hard shoes
 
Most students enjoy a hip treatment such as a coin or fringed hip sash to accentuate the movements and add a bit of fun. Premier Center (518-561-3127) sells coined hip sashes for under $20. You can also use a fringed shawl or any type of sash, material, or scarf that you can tie around your hips.
A little background on coined hip sashes: There are a zillion types available (online shopping) and they are a lot of fun. They are usually a student's first Belly Dance costume purchase. With a velvet top or choli and skirt or harem pants - you have a nice recital costume.
In days gone by, many teachers "forbid" their use in class because a whole class of them makes a very noisy, distracting class! However, since they are so popular and accessible and do add some learning value to student hip movements, they are much more "allowed" in current times. 
I do allow them in my classes.
 
COSTUMES FOR PERFORMING
There are many styles of costuming, just as there are many styles of Belly Dance and Middle Eastern style dancing. [See links below] Additionally, fusion, alternative, experimental combine various types.
Each of the many countries from whence sprang Belly Dance have their own regional styles.
BASIC CATEGORIES OF COSTUME PIECES:
Each category is differentiated by type of decoration:
-"Sparkly": beaded appliques & fringe, sequins, shiny / "Cabaret" or nightclub style
- Coined: Real or fake, antique or new coins sewn or attached with metal loops and chains / for cabaret or folkloric
- Fabric: trim, fringe, decorations made of material & cloth / folkloric
The two main basic styles:
A. Two piece set with bare (or bodystocking'd) midriff worn with skirt or pants
The 2 pieces = top & hip treatment    
   *Note: the bra & belt set is called "Bedlah" ="Suit" in Arabic
Style of Top:
1. Bra top   or         
2. Fabric crop top w or w/out sleeves
        -blousy, peasant top style  or
       - close fitting: stretch velvet, other fabrics
Hip treatment:
1. Belt - firm base  or
2. Fabric hip sash, ties at hips 
*The hip treatment can be built into the bottom skirt or pants and not as a separate piece
 
B.  One piece dress, or tunic over pants or skirt
- Form-fitting or - Loose, blousy
- With or without sleeves
 
The Two-piece Top/Hip set and the One-piece Dress/Tunic are then decorated accordingly: sparkly, coined, or fabric; or a combination.
Nowadays, there is a lot of style mixing, with the advent of American Tribal Style, Tribal fusion, Tribaret, Goth, Fantsy, Goddess, Alternative, Experimental, etc; some with quite beautiful results, some quite awful...depending on your taste.
The question of "authenticity" is a hotly debated topic. See links on styles.
       

Ethnic Authenticity article in Gilded Serpent

Where I Come From:
"Old School" American or AmCab (American Cabaret)
This describes the style popularized in the 60's & 70's by North American dancers who first learned from the ethnic folks in nightclubs & restaurants, transplants from their countries of origin.The costumes, as was the music played by the diverse assortment of artists from Turkey, Egypt, Armenia, the Mediterranean, Syria, Lebanon, Greece, etc., drew from many sources...thus began the American style in the typical melting pot fashion, a bit of a hodge-podge, but beautiful nonetheless. When I began my Belly Dance studies, this was the prevailing form.
Much has changed over the years with the rapidly increasing information pool available from the Internet and we have gained a lot more knowledge than we had back in those somewhat innocent early days. Also a lot of non-information and hearsay is available!
I enjoy old & new, studying authenticity as well as being wildly experimental. I think it is important for me as a teacher and a professional, to be informed and aware of the many branches of the Belly Dance Tree.

FOR SPECIFIC COSTUME DESIGNS FOR CCC & PREMIER CLASSES: GO TO THOSE PAGES

LINK TO A GREAT COSTUME HANDBOOK:go to free booklet!

"Hints & Tips for the Belly Dance Costumer" by Dawn Devine Brown & Barry Brown

LINKS ABOUT STYLES:

Different styles in Egypt

Magic of Oriental Dance: very detailed

About styles from Delilah's site:

COSTUME PATTERN LINKS:

Patterns-harem pants, circle skirt from Sheikani troupe

Patterns at Shira's site

More patterns at Celebrations Belly Dance

LINKS FOR COSTUME VENDORS

Good stuff at the Belly Dance Shoppe

MoondanceBellydance:Huge variety, Low prices, decent quality

High-end gorgeous at Dahlal's!

Sugar Petals: where I get those mesh unitards that I wear in class (also great velvet tops)

LINKS FOR BALLET SLIPPERS, MATERIAL, TRIM:

Discount Dance Supply

Theatre House:material,trim,sequins,fringe,etc

Liesa & the Masouda World Dance Ensemble
Mediterranean & Middle Eastern Style Dance for all occasions
liesabpedersen@aol.com