Maginot-Linie im Krieg 1939-1940

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Besuch der Maginot-Linie

Touring the Maginot Line
 
To comprehend the magnitude of the Maginot Line, a visit to see the fortifications and the terrain of northern Alsace and Lorraine is important.  Fortunately, most of the Line still remains in place; which is amazing, considering that more than six decades have passed since the battles of 1940.  Furthermore, several fortified works (fortresses, forts, casemates, and bunkers) are maintained as museums.  The rest of the Line lies abandoned in the country side, largely ignored by the local populace. 
 
Maginot Line sites open to the public are operated by local volunteer groups.  Because none of the groups have full-time staffs visiting hours can be irregular.  Only the largest Maginot Line museums have regular visitation schedules.  Other sites are typically open only one or two days a month, often only on Sunday afternoon.  It is wise to verify opening times before departing for a visit (Internet websites are a good source of information).  Note: To translate French or German language webpages, consider using Altavista’s Babel Fish translation webpage (http://world.altavista.com).
 
To see the less traveled parts of the Maginot Line, a guide is a wise idea, if not a necessity, since finding the forts and fortresses can be a daunting task.  One of the best places to see the Maginot Line is in the Thionville area which is in the heart of the Line. Within a short distance of the city there are no less than 18 Maginot fortresses and forts; many of which are open to the public.
 
Well Known Sites near Thionville
 
Fortress Hackenberg (http://maginot-hackenberg.com) – The largest of Maginot Line fortress with 17 combat blocks.  Tours of the fortress include the main munitions storage area, engine room, barracks, and kitchen; a museum of Maginot Line uniforms and weapons; an electric train ride to one of the artillery combat blocks (block 9), and a visit inside and outside of block 9 to see how a 135mm howitzer turret operates. 

HackenbergUsine1940.JPG
Then
Hackenberg 1940.  One of the four large diesel engines in the fortresses' power generation plant.
HackenbergUsine1995.JPG
Now
Hackenberg 1995.  Same engine today.  The engines are still used to this day to provide power to the fortress. 
HackenbergB9inside1940.JPG
Then
Hackenberg 1940.  The 135mm mortar of block 9 during German occupation of the fortress.
HackenbergB9inside1995.JPG
Now
Hackenberg 1995.  Same view as above.  Visitor's see the interior of block 9 during tours of the fortress.
HackenbergB91940.JPG
Then
Hackenberg 1940.  The 135mm mortar turret of block 9.  Hackenberg's greatest combat action was in 1944 when the US Army attacked and captured the fortress in November 1944.

HackenbergB92007.JPG

Now
Hackenberg 2007.  Tours of the fortress include the interior and exterior of block 9 where visitors can see the 135mm mortar turret in action.  This view of the turret is a reverse angle view from the 1940 photograph above.

Fort Immerhof (http://www.maginot-immerhof.info/en) – A four block fort with machine gun and 81mm mortar turrets.  This fort is the site of a re-enactor group that portrays French soldiers of 1940 and host events that include re-enactors of American WWII soldiers.

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Now
Immerhof 1995.  The fort's machine gun turret in the eclipsed position.  The armored turrets of many Maginot Line forts are still operable to this day. 

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Now
Immerhof 1995.  The fort's machine gun turret in firing position.  Same turret as above; but a different perspective.

Cattenom Forest Fortifications (http://forticat.com) – One of the most fortified places in Europe.  Within a short distance, visitors can see Fortress Galgenberg (an artillery ouvrage with six combat blocks), Fort Bois-Karre (a mono-block fort with a machine gun turret), Fort Sentzich (a monoblock fort with a machine gun turret), and Infantry Shelter Bois-de-Cattenom; which are open for public viewing.  It is also possible to walk or drive through the Cattenom Forest to see several other fortified works such as Fortress Kobenbusch, Fort Oberheid, Casemate Sonnenberg, Infantry Shelters Rippert and Bois-de-Cattenom, and Artillery Observatory Cattenom.

Galgenberg1940.JPG
Then
Galgenberg 1940.  As one of the heaviest armed sections of the Maginot Line, the fortifications in the Cattenom Forest were not attacked by the German Army.  This German news photograph shows Galgenberg's crew waiting for handover of the fortress to the German Army.

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Now
Galgenberg 1995.  The munitions entrance block remains much as it was in 1940.

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Now
Bois-Karre 1995.  Machine gun turret in firing position.

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Then
Sentzich 1940.  A mono-block ouvrage sited along a main road from Thionville to Germany.

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Now
Sentzich 1995.  Now a musem in the village of Sentzich.

CattenomSign2007.jpg

Now
Galgenberg 2007.  Billboard explaining the various fortifications visitors can see in the Cattenom Forest around Fortress Galgenberg.  This part of the Line is unique because visitors can see all major types of Maginot fortified works within a relatively small area.

Fortress Michelsberg (http://perso.orange.fr/michelsberg) – An artillery fortress with five combat blocks. This fortress was bombarded by the German 95th Infantry Division in June 1940.

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Then
Michelsberg 1940.  Block 2 after attack by artillery of the German 95th Infantry Division.

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Now
Michelsberg 2007.  Repaired after the war by the French Army, the block has returned to its pre-war appearance.

Within an Hour’s Drive of Thionville
 
Petit Ouvrage La Ferte – This fort is a memorial to the 105 soldiers of the fort’s crew who were killed in May 1940.

LaFerteB21940.JPG
Then
La Ferte 1940.  The taking of Fort La Ferte provided grist for the German propaganda machine.  Block 2 of the fort is among most photographed Maginot fortifications.  In this photograph, German sildiers are inspecting the turret which was destroyed by German combat engineers.  In the foreground are the graves of three French soldiers.

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Now
La Ferte 1995.  Open to vistors since the early 1970's, the fort is a memorial to the 104 crew who died during the German attack.

LaFerteB2Turret1940.jpg

Then
La Ferte 1940.  Block 2's armored turret was dislodged by an explosive charge placed by German combat engineers.
LaFerteB2Turret1995.JPG
Now
La Ferte 1995.  Block 2's turret; still as it was after the battle.
LaFerteB2Cupola1940.jpg
Then
La Ferte 1940.  An armored cupola of Block 2 with impact marks from an 88mm Flak cannon.
LaFerteB2Cupola1995.JPG
Now
La Ferte 1995.  Same cupola as above.

Fortress Fermont (http://www.ligne-maginot-fort-de-fermont.asso.fr) – Site of a failed German attack.  This fort's museum includes turrets that are cut-away to provide full interior views.

FermontB41940.JPG
Then
Fermont 1940.  A 135mm howitzer of block 4.  Subjected to artillery bombardment, this block was nearly destroyed when the wall of the block was penetrated by88mm Flak fire.  Fortunately for the fort's crew, the Germans were unaware of the breach and stopped firing before the interior of the block was damaged. 

FermontB41995.JPG

Now
Fermont 1995.  Block 4 was repaired after the war by the French Army.

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Now
Fermont 1995.  Interior of a 75mm howitzer turret.  This is one of several turrets on display in Fermont's museum.

Fort Bambesch (http://www.kerfent.com/guidesdubambesch.htm) – Site of a successful German attack.  The fort still bears the scars of the combat action.

BambeschB21940.JPG
Then
Bambesch 1940.  The cupola of block 2 was heavily damaged by direct fire during the attack of the German 167th Infantry Division. 

BambeschB22007.JPG

Now
Bambesch 2007.  Frozen in time; the same cupola more than 65 years later.  An 88mm round is still lodged in the wall of the cupola.

Other Historical Sites near Thionville
 
For those with broader historical interests, the area around Thionville contains several Middle Age castles, sites related to the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, several German pre-WWI fortresses such as Fort Guentrange (http://perso.orange.fr/fort-de-guentrange/index.htm), and sites associated with US Army combat operations in 1944 (http://www.moselleriver1944.org/site/en_index.php).
 
Beyond the immediate Thionville area (1-2 hours away) are the WWI battlefields of Verdun and Argonne, several German Westwall museums (http://www.amba.lu/pageshtml/westwall.php), and sites associated with the Battle of the Bulge, including Patton’s grave in Hamm, Luxembourg.
 
For even broader interests, there are cultural sites nearby such as the Saint-Etienne Cathedral in Metz, Luxembourg City (a UNESCO heritage site), and the Moselle wine region.  The “three frontier” region allows visitors to enjoy French, German, and Luxembourg cultures within a relatively compact area.  A search of the Internet will yield ample information about things to see and do in the Moselle Valley region.
 
The Maginot Line in Alsace
 
Frances border with Germany in Northern Alsace was also heavily fortified.  Near the the town of Wissembourg are two interesting Maginot fortifications.  Unfortunately, both are located outside of those areas typically visited by English-speaking tourists.  However, if visiting Strasbourg, Fortresses Schoenenbourg and Four-a-Chaux are about one to two hours away.
 
Fortress Schoenenbourg (http://www.lignemaginot.com/index12.htm).  The survivor of heavy aerial and artillery bombardment, this fortress has been carefully restored.  It also has one best Maginot Line museums.

SchoenenbourgB41940.JPG
Then
Schoenenbourg 1940.  Block 4's 75mm howitzer turret was the target of aerial and artillery bombardment. 

SchoenenbourgB41995.JPG

Now
Schoenenbourg 1995.  Today, the combat blocks are in the middle of a pasture.

SchoenenbourgMunitions1995.JPG

Now
Schoenenbourg 1995.  A 47mm antitank cannon and Reibel twin machine gun on display in the munitions entrance block.  These weapons were interchanged in the firing embrasure based on the type of target.

Fortress Four-a-Chaux (http://membres.lycos.fr/fourachaux).  Located near the town of Lembach, this fortress was also bombarded by German aircraft and artillery.

FourachauxB61940.JPG
Then
Four-a-Chaux 1940.  Superficial damage resulting from Stuka bombing. 
FourachauxB41995.JPG
Now
Four-a-Chaux 1995.  Repaired after the war by the French Army, block 6 no longer shows any sign of damage.

Tips for Visiting the Maginot Line
 
Opening Hours.  The opening times of most Maginot Line museums are irregular.  The websites of the various Maginot Line associations have contact information for those wanting a visit.  It is a good idea to verify opening times. Many Maginot Line associations are amiable to special visits; if coordinated in advance.
 
Time of Year.  The Maginot Line associations cut back on visitation hours in the fall and winter.  High season for most associations is from May to September. Otherwise, visits must be arranged in advance.
 
Clothing.  Bring appropriate clothing. Keep in mind that the Maginot Line is still very much a military machine designed for war, not comfort.  Even the most developed Maginot Line tourist sites are somewhat rustic.  Warm clothing is needed for visiting the larger fortresses.  Hiking boots and outdoor clothing are necessary for exploring the less traveled parts of the Line.
 
Rental Car.  A car is needed to visit the various sites.  No Maginot forts are served by public transportation.  Taxis are not suitable either, since many taxi drivers do not know where the forts are located. Nor are taxis likely to wait while you visit the site.
 
Tours.  For visits to multiple sites, consider taking either a specialized tour such as Dan’s Bunkertours (http://www.bunkertours.co.uk), or retaining a local guide. The latter is problematical as those people with knowledgeable of the Maginot Line are amateur historians who work real full-time jobs to support themselves. Yet, this can be a possibility.  Consider contacting Jean-Pascal Speck, owner of the Hotel L’Horizon in Thionville for assistance: http://www.lhorizon.fr